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Old 03-27-2013, 07:35 PM   #11236
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no boost or timing in the esc or motor
Ok, so which insert is in the motor? I'd recommend the 3-dot insert and start with the gearing around 3.2 (51T pinion). However, this will vary according to the track and your driving style (I don't so much as have driving style as crashing style )
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:08 AM   #11237
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Ok, so which insert is in the motor? I'd recommend the 3-dot insert and start with the gearing around 3.2 (51T pinion). However, this will vary according to the track and your driving style (I don't so much as have driving style as crashing style )
when I got the setup it had the 3 dot insert I replaced it with the 2 dot since it was running hot

I'm thinking it needs more then just a pinion the battery that i've been using I can run my 22sct for over 15 minutes with it and that has a tekin RS Pro & ballistic 17.5t this car is only getting around 8 minutes, last night I looked it over again and think the front belt is a touch snug and that might be part of the head problem really not sure since i dont have another one to compare it to
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:56 AM   #11238
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what temp's should it be kept under?
my experience was performance would really start to drop around 175-180
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:12 PM   #11239
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Originally Posted by RcNuttz View Post
when I got the setup it had the 3 dot insert I replaced it with the 2 dot since it was running hot

I'm thinking it needs more then just a pinion the battery that i've been using I can run my 22sct for over 15 minutes with it and that has a tekin RS Pro & ballistic 17.5t this car is only getting around 8 minutes, last night I looked it over again and think the front belt is a touch snug and that might be part of the head problem really not sure since i dont have another one to compare it to
The 2 dot insert is more can timing than the 3 dot one. The 4 dot insert is the least timing. If you insert the 4 dot one reversed, you get maximum can timing.

I won plenty of blinky races with this combo, generally with the 4 dot insert and geared a little shorter than the guys running Orion, Reedy etc.

The drive train should always be nice and free, regardless.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:01 AM   #11240
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Default Tamiya TA05

Hi guys,

who can tell me what the weight loss would be from using the "lightweight carbon reinforced" tub chassis vs. the stock standard plastic tub from the basic kit?
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:19 AM   #11241
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Hi guys,

who can tell me what the weight loss would be from using the "lightweight carbon reinforced" tub chassis vs. the stock standard plastic tub from the basic kit?
Maybe the reinforced TA05 chassis weights less, but it's not Always the case of being lighter.
My TA06 kit chassis weights about 99gr and the reinforced one weights 102gr.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:54 PM   #11242
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Maybe the reinforced TA05 chassis weights less, but it's not Always the case of being lighter.
My TA06 kit chassis weights about 99gr and the reinforced one weights 102gr.
well i had my suspicions thats why I ask... ideally i'd like to shed about 50~100 grams total weight thats quite a bit...
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:50 PM   #11243
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If you use the search function, you'll find this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ing-sedan.html

which will probably discuss the issues there. I remember when I ran a TA05, using all the "lightweight" parts I couldn't get anywhere near the minimum race weight
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:58 PM   #11244
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well i had my suspicions thats why I ask... ideally i'd like to shed about 50~100 grams total weight thats quite a bit...

You can shed that much weight by going to a lightweight shell alone. Better too.

Not sure if using a carbon tub is better than a plastic tub for the TA05. Definitely not that much difference.

151g for the plastic version, 140 carbon. There you go.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:38 AM   #11245
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the ta05 is a heavy chassis in general, it is not a trf designed car so unfortunately it is built more for durability, not as a top spec race car.

That said, it is a very good car for club level racing The extra weight can be useful for high grip tracks to tame grip roll and give stability.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:19 PM   #11246
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the ta05 is a heavy chassis in general, it is not a trf designed car so unfortunately it is built more for durability, not as a top spec race car.

That said, it is a very good car for club level racing The extra weight can be useful for high grip tracks to tame grip roll and give stability.
thats right I am racing it in a "stock"class on a technical low-medium grip asfalt track and so far so good (i'm on podium) but my class weight is 1400 gr and all up I got 1470 so ideally i would like to get lower.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:28 PM   #11247
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Try a shorty pack. You'll probably have to ADD weight after that
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:34 PM   #11248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
the ta05 is a heavy chassis in general, it is not a trf designed car so unfortunately it is built more for durability, not as a top spec race car.

That said, it is a very good car for club level racing The extra weight can be useful for high grip tracks to tame grip roll and give stability.
Yes, that is somewhat true. The chassis built as per the stock kit is a bit heavier than a dual carbon plate chassis, but if you start with an R version and make a wise choice of upgrades (quite a few; don't remember exactly what came in the kit, but mine has all the alloy parts possible), you can bring the bulk down a fair bit. Using Ti screws alone saves about 30 grams.

Sure, you will say this brings the price up way above a TRF car, but hey, you'll have a tank.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:58 AM   #11249
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Did tamiya release a chassis that fits Lipos for the TA05? I have a IFS VerII and it is just sitting in my shop, seems like a shame. So I want to build it up with some TRF parts. What are the best upgrades for this chassis?
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:08 AM   #11250
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Using a TA05R "2 hole front arms"...

What swing shafts are guys using? 46mm? Sorry been away for awhile and building one up to race USGT.
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