R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree2Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-09-2010, 04:39 AM   #11011
Tech Addict
 
encore75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SnoHoCo, WA
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to encore75
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
encore75 would be right and laughing at me in this case, but then again, I'm only going off of what I know for my car.
I was about to say, "Jeeeeez, relax dude...I was just assuming he's got 0 degree hubs since he said he was at 1.5 to begin with." But hey, what do I know...I've only got about 25 years into this hobby as well. (Wow, I feel old all of a sudden. hahah!)

I guess you get the big fat "F" for "Foot in mouth."

It's cool...at least you manned up and admitted your mistake, so no harm, no foul.
__________________
Tamiya TB-Evolution V & TA05-R | Kyosho Ultima SC & RB5 | Associated FT RC18T
encore75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 07:20 AM   #11012
Tech Addict
 
C&B RC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kowkl View Post
Thanks for the info and it's been a great help. Can I know where to find the series of the car model ? It's the ARTA NSX model and there is no particular serial no other than the product code which is 58369**18600. Not sure if this helps. I'll try to get the XB mount for the rear inside but don't seems to get that spec for the inside bridge one.

Going to LHS today to see if they have stock.

Thanks C & B RC.
If this is your ride:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc..._nsx/index.htm

Then it's a standard TA05. If there where some changes that occurred since it's release (not counting the -M or -R) I don't know for sure. Just use the TA05 manual as a reference for parts and you should be good.
__________________
It's all fun & games til the flying monkeys show up!
C&B RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 07:59 AM   #11013
Tech Addict
 
C&B RC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 605
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by outlandr91 View Post
Good info!, where did you find it?
Validation!!! You want Validation??? Always good on rctech.
Trust no one including yourself.

Most of the TA05 stuff can be found right here on this forum if you don't mind wadding through 5 years 734 pages of stuff. Easier now that search works Also the manuals have hidden tidbits that many overlook during the build.

Suspension mechanics applys to all chassis and my three sources are:

1) Corner at the limit by John Stranahan - John has analyzed many chassis and summerized his finding. Warning: You will have to read it a few times to wrap your head around some of it.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/corneringatthelimit.html

2) XXX Main Chassis setup guide - a paperback that most LHS carry.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/xxx/xxxb001.htm

3) Manual for the HUDY on-road setup station: I don't own one but you can download the manual. Great chart that suggests what to change when.

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...62&kategoria=0

4) Just found this, great stuff on tamiya blocks

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf

My suggestion is to build the TA05 to stock to begin with, it's a decent chassis right out of the box. Adjust it so you are not fighting the car. Then DRIVE and DRIVE some more. I 've seen guys drive somebody elses car that is pushing like a dump truck like it was on rails.
__________________
It's all fun & games til the flying monkeys show up!

Last edited by C&B RC; 08-09-2010 at 04:56 PM.
C&B RC is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 11:22 AM   #11014
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Born (The Netherlands)
Posts: 23
Default

I have a problem with gearing my TA05, when I'm using Tamiya gears (70t spur and 25t pinion) I don't have enough top speed but when i'm using 28 or 30 pinion and 70t spur (48p) my esc goes into failsafe after the main straight. The engine overheats, not the esc ! It's an EZRun 8.5 set... Tried fumbling with timing but that didn't help either.

Am I looking at it the wrong way ?
__________________
Tamiya TT-01E Type R | Tamiya TA-05
Tjello is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 04:10 PM   #11015
PDR
Tech Master
 
PDR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 1,826
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjello View Post
I have a problem with gearing my TA05, when I'm using Tamiya gears (70t spur and 25t pinion) I don't have enough top speed but when i'm using 28 or 30 pinion and 70t spur (48p) my esc goes into failsafe after the main straight. The engine overheats, not the esc ! It's an EZRun 8.5 set... Tried fumbling with timing but that didn't help either.

Am I looking at it the wrong way ?
28 & 30 pinions are way too tall for a typical 8.5T brushless in onroad. Your starting point should be around 22/23 and go up slowly, checking the temps each time. Because you have a 70T 48P spur, each increment in the pinion is quite a big jump in the FDR. To get more fine-grained control, consider switching to 64P gear.

An 8.5 should be pretty quick, but also check for unnecessary drag in the drivetrain. An 8.5 can also be sensitive to too much timing, so again, play in small increments. I'd suggest going back to the start, put in a 22 pinion and play with timing advance slowly, one step at a time. Keep your eyes on your lap times, rather than just your speed on the straight.
__________________
Looking for chassis | Multiple Kids
2011 Slowest Winner - 21.5 Muchmore Masters & NSW State Titles Demo Class
https://www.facebook.com/phatdadracing/
Making an A Main at a Scotty Ernst event. Awesome. Scotty calling you first in A1. Priceless
PDR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 05:37 PM   #11016
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Born (The Netherlands)
Posts: 23
Default

Thx for the reply.

drivetrain is smooth, i don't think there is a problem there... I will do some testing next time i'm on the track with temps and the gearing that I have. Running 25/70 with no problems at all atm. 28/70 was in much hotter conditions...
I have 19-25 pinion gears so i can have a look at what runs better...
__________________
Tamiya TT-01E Type R | Tamiya TA-05
Tjello is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 05:54 PM   #11017
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Born (The Netherlands)
Posts: 23
Default

I had been using the stock plastick diff joints up untill they were almost broken. Now I use the aluminium diff joints (#53919) but I haven't replaced the protectors in time, so... same problem... joints all @&@&# up...
Is it whise to purchase the same diff joints or maybe the high precision diff joint (#53849) is better ?
__________________
Tamiya TT-01E Type R | Tamiya TA-05
Tjello is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 06:32 PM   #11018
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,304
Default

That's what I was looking for. Thanks for the info
4) Just found this, great stuff on tamiya blocks

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf
outlandr91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2010, 07:30 PM   #11019
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 91
Default

Hi Guys,

I was at the LHS yesterday and enquired regarding the no on the rear hub carrier. He mention that the no indicated is the deg of toe in. So Now I'll fix the 3racing rear hub with my 1A rear inside and D rear outside will give me 3.5 deg. I'm not sure if it's too much but will post my experience with this setting. Thanks for all the help.

Regards.
kowkl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-10-2010, 09:54 PM   #11020
Suspended
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton, MA
Posts: 273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kowkl View Post
Hi Guys,

I was at the LHS yesterday and enquired regarding the no on the rear hub carrier. He mention that the no indicated is the deg of toe in. So Now I'll fix the 3racing rear hub with my 1A rear inside and D rear outside will give me 3.5 deg. I'm not sure if it's too much but will post my experience with this setting. Thanks for all the help.

Regards.
The total degree toe means both hubs, and not each hub number equals a degree.

The total toe is sold in pairs, so thus the designer must make a part (two in this case) equal the total toe.

They do that everywhere you see a set of angled parts, depending on its application.

If you have a set of 1 rear hubs, that's what needs to be added to the suspension block's toe.
__________________
Tamiya Frog from 1985 - Kyosho Outlaw Ultima ST - AE RC10T (cow hide LOL) - Tamiya M03-L Mini Cooper - Tamiya 1/24 Tamtech Posche 962C - Tamiya 1/24 Tamtech Ferrari Testarossa - Tamiya TA05-R - AE TC5FT
dragnse7en is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-11-2010, 11:39 PM   #11021
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 91
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
The total degree toe means both hubs, and not each hub number equals a degree.

The total toe is sold in pairs, so thus the designer must make a part (two in this case) equal the total toe.

They do that everywhere you see a set of angled parts, depending on its application.

If you have a set of 1 rear hubs, that's what needs to be added to the suspension block's toe.
If according to what you say, if the no thats indicated on the hub 2 means that there is only 1 deg toe in on each side ?
Basis on my setup I'm only having 2.5 deg toe in on both side ?

If its so confusing, then I'll buy a toe gauge to check it.

Tks.
kowkl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 12:07 PM   #11022
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Born (The Netherlands)
Posts: 23
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR View Post
28 & 30 pinions are way too tall for a typical 8.5T brushless in onroad. Your starting point should be around 22/23 and go up slowly, checking the temps each time. Because you have a 70T 48P spur, each increment in the pinion is quite a big jump in the FDR. To get more fine-grained control, consider switching to 64P gear.

An 8.5 should be pretty quick, but also check for unnecessary drag in the drivetrain. An 8.5 can also be sensitive to too much timing, so again, play in small increments. I'd suggest going back to the start, put in a 22 pinion and play with timing advance slowly, one step at a time. Keep your eyes on your lap times, rather than just your speed on the straight.
Drove today and started with 22 pinion, after that 23. Then I played around with punch and timing settings and in the end I was driving with a 24 pionion and the car drove much better, very smooth on throttle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjello View Post
I had been using the stock plastick diff joints up untill they were almost broken. Now I use the aluminium diff joints (#53919) but I haven't replaced the protectors in time, so... same problem... joints all @&@&# up...
Is it whise to purchase the same diff joints or maybe the high precision diff joint (#53849) is better ?
I think this is something that I caused, gearing wasn't correct and also the esc settings weren't ok so the diffs took a pounding...
__________________
Tamiya TT-01E Type R | Tamiya TA-05
Tjello is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2010, 11:34 PM   #11023
Suspended
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton, MA
Posts: 273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by encore75 View Post
I was about to say, "Jeeeeez, relax dude...I was just assuming he's got 0 degree hubs since he said he was at 1.5 to begin with." But hey, what do I know...I've only got about 25 years into this hobby as well. (Wow, I feel old all of a sudden. hahah!)

I guess you get the big fat "F" for "Foot in mouth."

It's cool...at least you manned up and admitted your mistake, so no harm, no foul.
No problem mang - my bad.

yep - were old now on age but as long as we have the spirit in this then we can stay young forever

I found another resource for the bridge settings, but I dont have a scanner. As I said I will eventually post my own chart, copied from the previous links.
__________________
Tamiya Frog from 1985 - Kyosho Outlaw Ultima ST - AE RC10T (cow hide LOL) - Tamiya M03-L Mini Cooper - Tamiya 1/24 Tamtech Posche 962C - Tamiya 1/24 Tamtech Ferrari Testarossa - Tamiya TA05-R - AE TC5FT
dragnse7en is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2010, 07:17 AM   #11024
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: N. Ireland, UK
Posts: 49
Default Correct pulley for 3Racing spool?

I've just received my new 3Racing spool for my TA05R (races on rubber, indoors and out), and found the one-way pulley doesn't quite fit - the holes don't line up. I got the one-way second-hand, so I don't know if it's a Tamiya pulley or not.

I have 2 diffs nicely built up with ceramic balls so am loathe to dismantle them to check if the diff pulley works.

Do the 3Racing pulleys work, and are they any good?
colmo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2010, 12:08 PM   #11025
Suspended
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northampton, MA
Posts: 273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by colmo View Post
I've just received my new 3Racing spool for my TA05R (races on rubber, indoors and out), and found the one-way pulley doesn't quite fit - the holes don't line up. I got the one-way second-hand, so I don't know if it's a Tamiya pulley or not.

I have 2 diffs nicely built up with ceramic balls so am loathe to dismantle them to check if the diff pulley works.

Do the 3Racing pulleys work, and are they any good?
If they do not fit, I hope you kept your receipt
__________________
Tamiya Frog from 1985 - Kyosho Outlaw Ultima ST - AE RC10T (cow hide LOL) - Tamiya M03-L Mini Cooper - Tamiya 1/24 Tamtech Posche 962C - Tamiya 1/24 Tamtech Ferrari Testarossa - Tamiya TA05-R - AE TC5FT
dragnse7en is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Tamiya TA05-R (TA05) TCS Legal limbohz R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 06-05-2008 08:58 PM
New Tamiya TA05 R touring car/motor/esc! Frost99999 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 3 08-07-2007 12:24 PM
FWD touring car/sedan hellbilly R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 6 01-12-2007 06:22 PM
Tamiya TA05 full race sedan, Tons of Hop Ups lbckevin R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 13 08-29-2006 03:05 PM
want to buy a touring/sedan car traxxasracer Minnesota and North/South Dakota Racing 7 09-21-2004 06:36 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:48 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net