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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 08-09-2010, 03:39 AM
  #11011  
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
encore75 would be right and laughing at me in this case, but then again, I'm only going off of what I know for my car.
I was about to say, "Jeeeeez, relax dude...I was just assuming he's got 0 degree hubs since he said he was at 1.5 to begin with." But hey, what do I know...I've only got about 25 years into this hobby as well. (Wow, I feel old all of a sudden. hahah!)

I guess you get the big fat "F" for "Foot in mouth."

It's cool...at least you manned up and admitted your mistake, so no harm, no foul.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:20 AM
  #11012  
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Originally Posted by kowkl View Post
Thanks for the info and it's been a great help. Can I know where to find the series of the car model ? It's the ARTA NSX model and there is no particular serial no other than the product code which is 58369**18600. Not sure if this helps. I'll try to get the XB mount for the rear inside but don't seems to get that spec for the inside bridge one.

Going to LHS today to see if they have stock.

Thanks C & B RC.
If this is your ride:

http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc..._nsx/index.htm

Then it's a standard TA05. If there where some changes that occurred since it's release (not counting the -M or -R) I don't know for sure. Just use the TA05 manual as a reference for parts and you should be good.
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:59 AM
  #11013  
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Originally Posted by outlandr91 View Post
Good info!, where did you find it?
Validation!!! You want Validation??? Always good on rctech.
Trust no one including yourself.

Most of the TA05 stuff can be found right here on this forum if you don't mind wadding through 5 years 734 pages of stuff. Easier now that search works Also the manuals have hidden tidbits that many overlook during the build.

Suspension mechanics applys to all chassis and my three sources are:

1) Corner at the limit by John Stranahan - John has analyzed many chassis and summerized his finding. Warning: You will have to read it a few times to wrap your head around some of it.

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/corneringatthelimit.html

2) XXX Main Chassis setup guide - a paperback that most LHS carry.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/xxx/xxxb001.htm

3) Manual for the HUDY on-road setup station: I don't own one but you can download the manual. Great chart that suggests what to change when.

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...62&kategoria=0

4) Just found this, great stuff on tamiya blocks

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf

My suggestion is to build the TA05 to stock to begin with, it's a decent chassis right out of the box. Adjust it so you are not fighting the car. Then DRIVE and DRIVE some more. I 've seen guys drive somebody elses car that is pushing like a dump truck like it was on rails.

Last edited by C&B RC; 08-09-2010 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:22 AM
  #11014  
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I have a problem with gearing my TA05, when I'm using Tamiya gears (70t spur and 25t pinion) I don't have enough top speed but when i'm using 28 or 30 pinion and 70t spur (48p) my esc goes into failsafe after the main straight. The engine overheats, not the esc ! It's an EZRun 8.5 set... Tried fumbling with timing but that didn't help either.

Am I looking at it the wrong way ?
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Old 08-09-2010, 03:10 PM
  #11015  
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Originally Posted by Tjello View Post
I have a problem with gearing my TA05, when I'm using Tamiya gears (70t spur and 25t pinion) I don't have enough top speed but when i'm using 28 or 30 pinion and 70t spur (48p) my esc goes into failsafe after the main straight. The engine overheats, not the esc ! It's an EZRun 8.5 set... Tried fumbling with timing but that didn't help either.

Am I looking at it the wrong way ?
28 & 30 pinions are way too tall for a typical 8.5T brushless in onroad. Your starting point should be around 22/23 and go up slowly, checking the temps each time. Because you have a 70T 48P spur, each increment in the pinion is quite a big jump in the FDR. To get more fine-grained control, consider switching to 64P gear.

An 8.5 should be pretty quick, but also check for unnecessary drag in the drivetrain. An 8.5 can also be sensitive to too much timing, so again, play in small increments. I'd suggest going back to the start, put in a 22 pinion and play with timing advance slowly, one step at a time. Keep your eyes on your lap times, rather than just your speed on the straight.
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:37 PM
  #11016  
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Thx for the reply.

drivetrain is smooth, i don't think there is a problem there... I will do some testing next time i'm on the track with temps and the gearing that I have. Running 25/70 with no problems at all atm. 28/70 was in much hotter conditions...
I have 19-25 pinion gears so i can have a look at what runs better...
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:54 PM
  #11017  
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I had been using the stock plastick diff joints up untill they were almost broken. Now I use the aluminium diff joints (#53919) but I haven't replaced the protectors in time, so... same problem... joints all @&@&# up...
Is it whise to purchase the same diff joints or maybe the high precision diff joint (#53849) is better ?
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:32 PM
  #11018  
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That's what I was looking for. Thanks for the info
4) Just found this, great stuff on tamiya blocks

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...ckSettings.pdf
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Old 08-09-2010, 06:30 PM
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Hi Guys,

I was at the LHS yesterday and enquired regarding the no on the rear hub carrier. He mention that the no indicated is the deg of toe in. So Now I'll fix the 3racing rear hub with my 1A rear inside and D rear outside will give me 3.5 deg. I'm not sure if it's too much but will post my experience with this setting. Thanks for all the help.

Regards.
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:54 PM
  #11020  
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Originally Posted by kowkl View Post
Hi Guys,

I was at the LHS yesterday and enquired regarding the no on the rear hub carrier. He mention that the no indicated is the deg of toe in. So Now I'll fix the 3racing rear hub with my 1A rear inside and D rear outside will give me 3.5 deg. I'm not sure if it's too much but will post my experience with this setting. Thanks for all the help.

Regards.
The total degree toe means both hubs, and not each hub number equals a degree.

The total toe is sold in pairs, so thus the designer must make a part (two in this case) equal the total toe.

They do that everywhere you see a set of angled parts, depending on its application.

If you have a set of 1 rear hubs, that's what needs to be added to the suspension block's toe.
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:39 PM
  #11021  
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
The total degree toe means both hubs, and not each hub number equals a degree.

The total toe is sold in pairs, so thus the designer must make a part (two in this case) equal the total toe.

They do that everywhere you see a set of angled parts, depending on its application.

If you have a set of 1 rear hubs, that's what needs to be added to the suspension block's toe.
If according to what you say, if the no thats indicated on the hub 2 means that there is only 1 deg toe in on each side ?
Basis on my setup I'm only having 2.5 deg toe in on both side ?

If its so confusing, then I'll buy a toe gauge to check it.

Tks.
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:07 AM
  #11022  
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Originally Posted by PDR View Post
28 & 30 pinions are way too tall for a typical 8.5T brushless in onroad. Your starting point should be around 22/23 and go up slowly, checking the temps each time. Because you have a 70T 48P spur, each increment in the pinion is quite a big jump in the FDR. To get more fine-grained control, consider switching to 64P gear.

An 8.5 should be pretty quick, but also check for unnecessary drag in the drivetrain. An 8.5 can also be sensitive to too much timing, so again, play in small increments. I'd suggest going back to the start, put in a 22 pinion and play with timing advance slowly, one step at a time. Keep your eyes on your lap times, rather than just your speed on the straight.
Drove today and started with 22 pinion, after that 23. Then I played around with punch and timing settings and in the end I was driving with a 24 pionion and the car drove much better, very smooth on throttle.

Originally Posted by Tjello View Post
I had been using the stock plastick diff joints up untill they were almost broken. Now I use the aluminium diff joints (#53919) but I haven't replaced the protectors in time, so... same problem... joints all @&@&# up...
Is it whise to purchase the same diff joints or maybe the high precision diff joint (#53849) is better ?
I think this is something that I caused, gearing wasn't correct and also the esc settings weren't ok so the diffs took a pounding...
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Old 08-14-2010, 10:34 PM
  #11023  
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Originally Posted by encore75 View Post
I was about to say, "Jeeeeez, relax dude...I was just assuming he's got 0 degree hubs since he said he was at 1.5 to begin with." But hey, what do I know...I've only got about 25 years into this hobby as well. (Wow, I feel old all of a sudden. hahah!)

I guess you get the big fat "F" for "Foot in mouth."

It's cool...at least you manned up and admitted your mistake, so no harm, no foul.
No problem mang - my bad.

yep - were old now on age but as long as we have the spirit in this then we can stay young forever

I found another resource for the bridge settings, but I dont have a scanner. As I said I will eventually post my own chart, copied from the previous links.
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Old 08-15-2010, 06:17 AM
  #11024  
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Default Correct pulley for 3Racing spool?

I've just received my new 3Racing spool for my TA05R (races on rubber, indoors and out), and found the one-way pulley doesn't quite fit - the holes don't line up. I got the one-way second-hand, so I don't know if it's a Tamiya pulley or not.

I have 2 diffs nicely built up with ceramic balls so am loathe to dismantle them to check if the diff pulley works.

Do the 3Racing pulleys work, and are they any good?
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Old 08-15-2010, 11:08 AM
  #11025  
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Originally Posted by colmo View Post
I've just received my new 3Racing spool for my TA05R (races on rubber, indoors and out), and found the one-way pulley doesn't quite fit - the holes don't line up. I got the one-way second-hand, so I don't know if it's a Tamiya pulley or not.

I have 2 diffs nicely built up with ceramic balls so am loathe to dismantle them to check if the diff pulley works.

Do the 3Racing pulleys work, and are they any good?
If they do not fit, I hope you kept your receipt
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