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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 08-07-2010, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by strong
The 3racing swing shaft for Tamiya TA05 is 46mm long.....Item # TA05-26.
How's racing been hoss? Is your season done?

Wish me luck - October at RC Madness, Enfield,CT.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en
encore75 - YOU ARE WRONG.

Same exact source I use.

BOTH KIT REAR HUB CARRIERS EQUAL 1, 1/2 A DEGREE EACH.

Do not listen to this guy - in your case, use the X (not XB) mount.

encore75 needs to do further homework, he gets a FAT F- on that one

Listen to a guy that has 25 years of exp. - Thats me

My TC5 has 3 of rear toe. The human eye can detect a half degree difference.

Looking at both cars, the TC5 has more rear toe.


But then again, I use a gauge.
dragnse7en,

Now I'm confused. Can you please explain rear inside 1A (Bridge) and rear outside D. Am I correct to say that this setup will only give me toe in 1.5 deg. Question - If I want to have 3 deg toe in but maintain my D toe block, what must I get for the rear inside. ?

Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by encore75
The Kimbrough without the holes is the one you want (Part #200). You'll see on it that there are guides for suggested places to drill a hole and the best spot is right above the center guide circle. The #201 with holes is a little low for the center hole.

Otherwise, this servo saver works perfect (I use a full-size Hitec 985 servo)...no need to cut the corner off or anything to keep it from hitting the chassis.
Thanks. I ended up with the 201 since the LHS didn't have a 200 but I drilled an additional center hole a little higher (there's a flashing ring that looked dead on to tamiya one.)
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kowkl
dragnse7en,

Now I'm confused. Can you please explain rear inside 1A (Bridge) and rear outside D. Am I correct to say that this setup will only give me toe in 1.5 deg. Question - If I want to have 3 deg toe in but maintain my D toe block, what must I get for the rear inside. ?

Thanks.
What we need to know is what hub carriers you are using. They can effect rear toe as well. Not to confuse you but are you using a shim under the 1A block? If no shim are used on either rear blocks the rear hinge pins are lower by 1mm in the front.
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Old 08-07-2010, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kowkl
dragnse7en,

Now I'm confused. Can you please explain rear inside 1A (Bridge) and rear outside D. Am I correct to say that this setup will only give me toe in 1.5 deg. Question - If I want to have 3 deg toe in but maintain my D toe block, what must I get for the rear inside. ?

Thanks.
Okay - sure. If you read the link from encore75, you'll see that Inner 1A and outter 1D give the car a rear toe of 1.5, plus the rear hubs give it a total of 2.5.

Important note - the charts in the link are labeled backwards. What says Outside on the chart should be Inside, and Inside should say Outside.

You'll need a suspension bridge mount X, or 1X (same size) but couldn't find a bridge mount in that size so that the belt doesn't rub against a regular outside suspension mount.

The TA05 V2 has the part you need. Use this part:

RC TA05VII Separate Sus Mounts - Version II (1X)
Item #54171

Use this as a substitute for the inner suspension bridge mount and you should be all set.
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Old 08-07-2010, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by C&B RC
What we need to know is what hub carriers you are using. They can effect rear toe as well. Not to confuse you but are you using a shim under the 1A block? If no shim are used on either rear blocks the rear hinge pins are lower by 1mm in the front.
I use the TB EVOIV rear hub carrier, 1 toe. They're labeled 1L and 1R. These are the ones that came with my kit; part# 51105.

I don't use any of the blue shims, but was thinking about it to add more anti-squat to the rear. Depending on their thickness, I may need two? but will have to have them in my hands first to see.

I never worry much about that rear angle, looking at the side of the car. The angle from the top of the car is what I look for to measure toe and ackerman.

Hope that helps

Last edited by dragnse7en; 08-07-2010 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 08-07-2010, 05:37 PM
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Thumbs up rear suspension mount chart



Then just add the 1 toe in from the rear hubs and you will have your 3.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by C&B RC
What we need to know is what hub carriers you are using. They can effect rear toe as well. Not to confuse you but are you using a shim under the 1A block? If no shim are used on either rear blocks the rear hinge pins are lower by 1mm in the front.
At the present I'm using the TA05 V2 rear hub and I'm having a spare 3racing 2 deg rear hub. Which would you think is better ? Which one will give me the additional 1 deg ?

Tks.
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Old 08-07-2010, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kowkl
At the present I'm using the TA05 V2 rear hub and I'm having a spare 3racing 2 deg rear hub. Which would you think is better ? Which one will give me the additional 1 deg ?

Tks.
I'm not familiar with either of those hubs, but I can look them both up, and hopefully give you an answer by the first end of next week.

A key Note is that I copied the chart image from Tamiya USA and need to transcribe a chart and make one myself so I do not get sued or whatever, since that image will come down soon.

The easiest answer to the problem would to know the existing rear hub's total toe. Chances are, if it does not say L or R on each part, and they are symmetrical, then they are quite likely 0 toe.

So, to help that easy answer, you would instead need a TA05 V2 copy of the TRF415 EVOIV XB mount. encore75 would be right and laughing at me in this case, but then again, I'm only going off of what I know for my car.

IIRC - if you do need the XB mount for the easy answer, then I think you need to buy two sets, as one seperate bridge mount that comes with it is a different setting - don't quote me on that tho LOL
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by C&B RC
What we need to know is what hub carriers you are using. They can effect rear toe as well. Not to confuse you but are you using a shim under the 1A block? If no shim are used on either rear blocks the rear hinge pins are lower by 1mm in the front.
Yes, I'm using the 1mm shims for all 4 blocks but not sure if this helps. I'm rebuild the car and just to run it and I've blown my motor. Looking for a replacement now.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kowkl
At the present I'm using the TA05 V2 rear hub and I'm having a spare 3racing 2 deg rear hub. Which would you think is better ? Which one will give me the additional 1 deg ?

Tks.
What TA05 series car do you have? What kit number is it first tho
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en
What TA05 series car do you have? What kit number is it first tho
I'm not sure what series is it but have to check on the box for the serial no. I've got it about 2.5 yr ago and have been on a never ending journey of buying hop ups and only now was made to realize it not going to be as good as a T3.

So I'm now trying to assemble another TA05 with the original part which I've change and use this as a drift car. I'll upload a pic of my car with a lot of hop ups which inclusive of the harden tub chasis.

I should have got a TRF 415 instead of this but I'm learning more about this car and then will target T4 when it come out later.

Thanks for your advice so far.
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kowkl
At the present I'm using the TA05 V2 rear hub and I'm having a spare 3racing 2 deg rear hub. Which would you think is better ? Which one will give me the additional 1 deg ?

Tks.
OK, we are getting somewhere

Suspension blocks: the labeling reflects the two dimensions involved:
The letter is the distance the hinge pins holes are drilled apart.
The number (or lack of number) is the height the hole is drilled from the bottom of the block.

An "A" and "1A" are spaced the same distance apart but the "1A" is 1 mm shorter than the "A" block. If you add a 1mm shim under "1A" then it will be the same as an "A" with no shim

REAR TOE:
The TA05 V2 stock hubs are 0 degrees (left and right can be swapped and you'll see no difference.

Total rear toe = rear axle (hubs) + suspension mount (difference in blocks)

-3 degree rear toe = TA05 V2 stock (0) + D-XB (-3 degree)

Anti/Pro Squat:

Looking at the rear hinge pins with the wheel off, based on what you have already told us (1A-inside, D outside, both shimed 1mm), the front of the pin is 1mm higher than the rear. This means you have anti-squat, which means less rear traction, more steering. You could just pull the shim from under the 1A (so you have no anti-squat) first, to see if this helps, before increasing your rear toe in.

Hope this helps
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:25 PM
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Thanks for the info and it's been a great help. Can I know where to find the series of the car model ? It's the ARTA NSX model and there is no particular serial no other than the product code which is 58369**18600. Not sure if this helps. I'll try to get the XB mount for the rear inside but don't seems to get that spec for the inside bridge one.

Going to LHS today to see if they have stock.

Thanks C & B RC.
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:44 PM
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Good info!, where did you find it?

Originally Posted by C&B RC
OK, we are getting somewhere

Suspension blocks: the labeling reflects the two dimensions involved:
The letter is the distance the hinge pins holes are drilled apart.
The number (or lack of number) is the height the hole is drilled from the bottom of the block.

An "A" and "1A" are spaced the same distance apart but the "1A" is 1 mm shorter than the "A" block. If you add a 1mm shim under "1A" then it will be the same as an "A" with no shim

REAR TOE:
The TA05 V2 stock hubs are 0 degrees (left and right can be swapped and you'll see no difference.

Total rear toe = rear axle (hubs) + suspension mount (difference in blocks)

-3 degree rear toe = TA05 V2 stock (0) + D-XB (-3 degree)

Anti/Pro Squat:

Looking at the rear hinge pins with the wheel off, based on what you have already told us (1A-inside, D outside, both shimed 1mm), the front of the pin is 1mm higher than the rear. This means you have anti-squat, which means less rear traction, more steering. You could just pull the shim from under the 1A (so you have no anti-squat) first, to see if this helps, before increasing your rear toe in.

Hope this helps
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