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Old 04-09-2010, 08:17 AM   #10786
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Originally Posted by rnd_tang View Post
Hi everyone,

Just wondering what is the hardness(?) rating of the standard tyres that come with the TA05? I run 540 and at my local track tonight was getting absolutely no backend traction, was sliding all over the shop!

Some guys run Sorex 36's and they seem to have better grip than me, although they do have the same problems but not as severe as mine.
Get yourself a good set of tires, I've never seen any "out of the box" set of tires be very good on any surface.
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Old 04-09-2010, 09:52 AM   #10787
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Get yourself a good set of tires, I've never seen any "out of the box" set of tires be very good on any surface.
+1. Save your sanity and don't try to figure out the box stock tires
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:44 AM   #10788
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Get yourself a good set of tires, I've never seen any "out of the box" set of tires be very good on any surface.
NOT TRUE.........they are extremely good and must have for concourse competition....(as long as you do not need to RUN IT)
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:48 PM   #10789
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question answered..
thanks

Last edited by Mr LowDown; 04-09-2010 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:19 PM   #10790
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Heh cool, thanks guys.

I've got a few sets of Hotbodies Gumballs, I thought I'd wear out the box tyres first but looks like they are better for just testing/bashing.

Cheers.
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:45 PM   #10791
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How's it going,
Would anyone know wether a duratrax intellispeed 8t reversed#dtxm1075 would be able to handle a trinity ep 4600 nimh 6cell battery part#tr120137?
The reason I am asking this is because a intellect 4600 smoked the same ESC on a different car but the intellect 4200 worked fine.
Thanks again!
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:38 AM   #10792
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4600mAh NiMh battery is not the issue that cause the esc failed..
i think the final ratio that killed the esc...
so check the ratio of your TA05 bro..

my advice....
go brushless.....
but make sure the esc is small enough to fit the chasis
tekin or ezrun should fit nicely without modification to the chasis
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Old 04-11-2010, 05:21 AM   #10793
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Originally Posted by Blue_VB_SL253 View Post
Hi guy's, im looking into buying a graphite chassis conversion kit for my standard ta05. Has any body tried the graphite chassis conversion version 3 from 3 racing? If so does all bulk heads, arms, shock towers, hubs, steering arms ect, do they all just swap over and fit the graphite chassis? Here is the kit http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=3722

In put would be much appreciated
I have used the IFS version extensively. It is a very good quality build and you don't need any additional parts. The 3Racing chassis comes complete and any original part required simply swaps over.

The main issue with the carbon chassis is that is flexible from side to side. If you hold the front end and back end in your hands and twist it along its length, it will flex much more than the standard tub chassis. In most on-road applications this is OK and probably improves traction. Howeber, I also found that when using a 10.5 turn BL motor the chassis also flexes along the vertical centre axis. When you accellerate hard it pulls to the right and when you brake hard it pulls to the left. I have tried everything to eliminate this and the only solution was to use higher turn motors. So with 10.5 turn BL motor I have gone back to use the carbon reinforced tub chassis.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:54 AM   #10794
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I have used the IFS version extensively. It is a very good quality build and you don't need any additional parts. The 3Racing chassis comes complete and any original part required simply swaps over.

The main issue with the carbon chassis is that is flexible from side to side. If you hold the front end and back end in your hands and twist it along its length, it will flex much more than the standard tub chassis. In most on-road applications this is OK and probably improves traction. Howeber, I also found that when using a 10.5 turn BL motor the chassis also flexes along the vertical centre axis. When you accellerate hard it pulls to the right and when you brake hard it pulls to the left. I have tried everything to eliminate this and the only solution was to use higher turn motors. So with 10.5 turn BL motor I have gone back to use the carbon reinforced tub chassis.
Thanks for the info brrrrm. I find it very interesting that you found that it pulled under acceleration and under breaking. But still Ill probably end up getting this chassis due to its flexibility
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:18 AM   #10795
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Can some one PLEASE explain to me about droop......Because of all the setting on a touring car this is the most confusing to me.....If I turn the set screw in or down will this give me more or less droop....And also will it give me more or less traction at that end of the car with the most droop.
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Old 04-16-2010, 10:56 AM   #10796
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Can some one PLEASE explain to me about droop......Because of all the setting on a touring car this is the most confusing to me.....If I turn the set screw in or down will this give me more or less droop....And also will it give me more or less traction at that end of the car with the most droop.
That's because it is confusing.

Short answer, yes. On the condition that you do not change anything else in your suspension.

Long answer below.

Turning the screw in will give you a higher downstop. The suspension arms at rest (car off the ground) are then higer in relation to the chassis than at a lower downstop value. Droop is affected too, but only by collateral, because the downstop screw limits how far down the arm can go. To counter this, you can adjust the ride height using the spring tensioners on the shocks so you gain back the droop lost by raising the downstop value.

Ideally this is the process.

Doesn't work if you don't have an appropiate assortment of springs of correct length/rate to be able to achieve any desired combination of downstop-droop-ride height.

To give you a handle on this, here's a little experiment. Prepare your car to race with everything in (battery, etc, etc). Leave only the body off for now. Now take any tension on springs away (by adjusting the collars, or removing any clips if you have the plastic shocks). Make sure the springs are not under any compression at all whatsoever. Raise the chassis on something like a small block of wood or anything flat and square. Your suspension arms should be able now to flap up and down freely. Let them settle under their own weight. Now screw in the downstop screw and look how the arm is coming up. That means you have a higher downstop.

If you take now the car and put it on the wheels, the chassis will probably rest on the ground as there is nothing to support its weight. Lets say it does. To measure droop now, you should lift the chassis until the wheels come off the ground. This will happen when the downstop screw will touch the chassis.

Please note, this is not equivalent to saying droop is at this point equal to downstop. If they are equal, is just a coincidence.

Ride height at this stage is zero (chassis sits on the ground if you leave the car alone).

To adjust ride height, you need to use the springs, so now you need to start putting some tension on the springs. the more tension you put on the springs, the more the arms are pushed down as spring tension overcomes the car weight and the chassis is lifted higher and higher until the downstop screws just come in contact with the chassis again. At this point you have the highest ride height you can achieve for the given downstop value. Also, at this point, you will have no droop at all (i.e. the arms are as far down as they can be).

If you are happy with the ride height now, you can back off the downstop screws and this will change your downstop (it will be lower) and this will also give you some droop (the downstop screws don't rest on the chassis any more, so the arm can travel downwards a bit if the car is lifted or it rolls).

If you need more ride height (say you need to meet some regulation ride height), you will have to back off the downstop screws and increase the tension on the springs. Then, retrace the steps above to gain the desired droop.

Droop is very useful in tuning your car, and generally you should remember that a softer suspension setting needs more droop to make use of the available grip because the car rolls more and if there is no droop, is more likely to lift the inside wheels off the ground in a corner.
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Last edited by niznai; 04-17-2010 at 10:47 PM.
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:39 PM   #10797
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Thanks......... maybe some day it will dawn on me how it works...... but until then I'll just keep trying to figure it out.......Thanks again.
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:55 PM   #10798
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Got a question for one of you Tamiya experts.

What is the difference between the Flourine Shocks and the Hard Black Coating shocks?

If you had a choice which would you go with?

Any info would help.
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Old 04-17-2010, 12:34 AM   #10799
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hi all....
got another newbie question here..

if i use sorex's 20R to 24R tire on a track with surface temp reaching 36'C to 38'C
can i gain more grip? ( i don't mind bout the tire wear issue )
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Old 04-17-2010, 05:22 PM   #10800
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Originally Posted by Mr LowDown View Post
hi all....
got another newbie question here..

if i use sorex's 20R to 24R tire on a track with surface temp reaching 36'C to 38'C
can i gain more grip? ( i don't mind bout the tire wear issue )
no, well maybe for the first lap or two but the tire will over heat and actually get slick, run 32's for 36c and 36's for 37c and up
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