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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 11-04-2009, 04:08 PM
  #10711  
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Originally Posted by zangonli View Post
I would like to try running my ta05 down to a 3.5 FDR .. so I can keep up on the straight! It doesn't look like I can fit anything larger than a 38t (48p) pinion (in view of the motor mounting holes.) That means I would need a 60t spur. Assuming I can get one of those, I think there is enough adjustment on the motor mount to mesh. Anyone disagree?
An FDR of 3.5 is very tall and would probably only suit an open, high speed layout. If you have any technical sections, you'll be suffering from fairly low punch and will then struggle to keep up in the infield.

A number of drivers are finding that recent ESC's with variable timing help a lot in this regard. Gear shorter for more punch in the infield, but the use of more timing on the straight gives back top end speed. It's making the ESC a much more important part of the whole equation. For example, where you might have run an FDR of 3.8, you end up with as much or more top speed using an FDR of 4.2, because the ESC can exploit a wider power band and gives you better acceleration in the tighter sections.

There are an increasing number of ESC manufacturers using this approach. See what's available and popular near you, but names such as Tekin, Team Wave and LRP crop up regularly. There's no monopoly on the concept, so lots of newer products are including it.

Cheers,
Phil.
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:20 PM
  #10712  
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Thanks for the useful insight, Phil. You are probably right in that it is more likely to achieve shorter laptimes by being quicker in the infield! I will spend some time trying different timing on my LRP SPX esc, to see how that translates into shorter lap time.

Farzad
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:34 PM
  #10713  
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Our track is 100 feet long and the guys running Tekin RS Speed controls with 21.5 are running near 5.0 FDR...
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:44 PM
  #10714  
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It really depends on the speedo, motor, and track. For instance, at my track with a 17.5 with no timing and a Novak GTB I was geared as low as 3.5. But with an SPX and a 17.5 with advanced timing I run more like a 4.6-4.7 final.

I guess my point is, a 3.5 is not out of the question.
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:18 PM
  #10715  
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Hello everyone,

If anyone is interested in a TA05MS new in box, check out this link.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-box-sale.html
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:41 AM
  #10716  
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Hey all, did some searching but didnt find my answer. Will the TRF414 one way fit in a TA05 ? I suppose I can take it apart and see how it fits but I was trying to avoid it before I got some advice. Thanks
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Old 11-30-2009, 10:50 AM
  #10717  
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I don't know if it will fit or not, sorry I cant answer that one for you.

You can answer 1 for me though , Do you still have that unpainted Mustang body 4 sale?
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:23 PM
  #10718  
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Am tryin to install the stabiliser bar on my ver2 but have problems in figuring out how to install the front as i know the cup holding the bar holders are fairly loose. it did mention i have to cut some plastic parts and im wondering which part it is

Originally Posted by Ghostfit View Post
You guys ready for another installment of TA05 build Pics ?

Okay, I mention something about the easy access of the diff earlier, here's a pic showing the 4 screws to be removed:



Voila ! the diff/shock tower removed. Note the screw holes which are keyed.



Next is a view of the front Anti-roll bar assembly.



And this is a view of the rear Anti-roll bar assembly.



In this close up view of the Rear, you can see the 2 grub screws for eliminating any play in the roll bars housing.



Finally, I remember someone asking to see how the dogs sit in the outdrives. I'm sorry I dun have a pic of the original stock parts but here's my TA05 hopup with LW reversible Arms set, 46mm CVD shafts and local mod to reinforce the stock outdrives. Currently I have the stock plastic suspension blocks as the local distributor do not have stocks of what I want.
(Sorry for the overexposure but without the flash, you wun be able to see details of the outdrives.)



Cheers ! ......until the next, next instalment of TA05 Teaser !
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:11 PM
  #10719  
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You need to cut part A1 where the sway bar lays in, if you check closely you'll notice that it is slightly too long and where the sway bar bends it touches the side of A1.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:54 PM
  #10720  
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Hi, i have a ta05 with a 101 spur and 19 turn motor what would be a safe but, quick ratio? thanks.
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Old 01-04-2010, 10:18 PM
  #10721  
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You need to give more info about the track size and layout.
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Old 01-07-2010, 09:21 PM
  #10722  
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TA05 with a bunch of hop ups on the for sale/trade forum $ 175.00 with a 17.5 brushless motor O.B.O PM me or look it up if anyone is interested
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:13 PM
  #10723  
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hello guys,need some help,i got a TA05 and TRF416
i done a conversion to my ta05 and i did upgrade the front and rear arms plus the Knuckle f/r to the one of the TRF416 so i need only to carry one set of spares for both cars,but i noticed that now i cant get a full lock on the steering because the steearing rack cant pull all the way.
anyone done this conversion and have same problem?if yes how did u solve it?
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Old 01-14-2010, 09:05 AM
  #10724  
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Originally Posted by guinnes.s View Post
hello guys,need some help,i got a TA05 and TRF416
i done a conversion to my ta05 and i did upgrade the front and rear arms plus the Knuckle f/r to the one of the TRF416 so i need only to carry one set of spares for both cars,but i noticed that now i cant get a full lock on the steering because the steearing rack cant pull all the way.
anyone done this conversion and have same problem?if yes how did u solve it?
Had the same problem, it's the front C-Hub.. physically the original ones fit, but the 416 knuckles have that little point sticking out in the corner.. either find TB-03/416 knuckles to allow for that little point, or grind it down with a dremel like I did..
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Old 01-14-2010, 10:28 AM
  #10725  
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Would u mind to post some pics of ur mod please.
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