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Old 09-12-2009, 11:20 AM   #10651
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Benny, some more info needed. What are the dimensions of the track? On the straightaway, are you able to get up to top speed? Are you getting to top speed early on the straight and just holding it? Is the 1st place car pulling away from you on the straight?

What class are you running? If in 17.5 or 13.5, motor/esc combo has the potential of making a little bit of change.

Have you thought about asking the 1st cars what their FDRs are? Also, how clean are your races? How's the car tuned (toe-in vs. toe-out, etc.)? There's a lot of variables besides FDR to take into account.
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Old 09-12-2009, 08:33 PM   #10652
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jolson88,
The track is approximately 25m x 15m. We try to maintained a 3m track width in all parts except for the chicane (top right).
Running silver can and have used three ESC with no difference.
Reaching top speed early on the straight and just holding I can run just about the whole track at top speed. The 1st place car pulling away from me on the straight
1st place said he was running about a 5:1 FDR
Car set up 2 deg camber all round 1 deg toe out and the weight is balanced nice.
Thanks for the help…..
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Old 09-12-2009, 10:58 PM   #10653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BXBENNY View Post
jolson88,
The track is approximately 25m x 15m. We try to maintained a 3m track width in all parts except for the chicane (top right).
Running silver can and have used three ESC with no difference.
Reaching top speed early on the straight and just holding I can run just about the whole track at top speed. The 1st place car pulling away from me on the straight
1st place said he was running about a 5:1 FDR
Car set up 2 deg camber all round 1 deg toe out and the weight is balanced nice.
Thanks for the help…..
If your silver can is not that hot try adding 1 or 2 teeth to the pinion. I wanna say we ran about a 4.8 in our silver cans
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:07 AM   #10654
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If your silver can is not that hot try adding 1 or 2 teeth to the pinion. I wanna say we ran about a 4.8 in our silver cans
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Old 09-13-2009, 07:02 AM   #10655
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Hey all, thanks for the info.....

I have found out that 1st place is running black 540 sports tuned not a silver can….

I will still up the teeth on the pinion...
Thanks All
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:09 PM   #10656
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Default Tamiya Short Reversible Susp Set TA05

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVRC7&P=Z

has anyone tried the short reversible suspension set? i am wondering what the advantage is for using this on the ta05
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Old 09-13-2009, 10:51 PM   #10657
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Default 49400 wheel and tire question

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It isn't really a CF double deck version of the TA05 because it has a short wheelbase - about 1 inch shorter than a regular touring car chassis - to suit the Porsche body. Previous Tamiya short wheelbase chassis (TA02SW, TA03(F/R)S, TA04SS) used reversed suspension arms and other tricks on a standard chassis to achieve the desired result but not so with this beauty.

The original production was rumoured to be only 1,000 units, and nobody really seems to know if there will be any more.
anyone know what tire compound the kit tires on the 49400 is?
also the wheels are 26mm, offset 2 and offset 5.

I'm looking for alternatives to these beautiful wheels/tires to use on the track.. yes I will race this
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:02 PM   #10658
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s grip radial

short reversible suspension, less chassis roll, smaller bearings so lighter weight, sway bar options.
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:33 PM   #10659
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anyone know what tire compound the kit tires on the 49400 is?
also the wheels are 26mm, offset 2 and offset 5.

I'm looking for alternatives to these beautiful wheels/tires to use on the track.. yes I will race this
Pretty sure that the rims are suited to 24mm tyres (Tamiya refers to these as "medium-narrow"). The 49400 is essentially a shorter wheelbase TA05MS with a few other differences.

With the shorter wheelbase, it also runs a very narrow set of blocks at the front and rear. This results in a very, very nimble chassis, but can be handful with too much power. I started running mine with a 6.5 brushless which was waaayyy too fast for me on a race track, but fantastic for car park work

With that wheelbase, it wasn't legal for touring car race duties at my local track, so I replaced the top and bottom decks and the front belt to make it "standard". All other bits were kept the same, although I've changed the rear blocks to dial out the 3 degrees of rear toe (too much for the classes I run). Personally, I'm not a shelf queen type of hobbyist, so putting it real work made more sense for me. The 934 body and wheels are kept safe, just in case...

Since then, I've also played with the front and rear roll centres, added sway bars at both ends and it's a very competitive car.

Standard touring car wheels and tyres work great (currently use Sorex 28's for night-time racing and Muchmore 32 Absolutes for daytime duties). 1mm wheel spacers on the front and 0.5mm wheel spacers at the back.

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Old 09-14-2009, 02:03 AM   #10660
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Is the Ver.2 wheel axle same as TA05? Anyone have upgrade to this 53939 Lightweight Wheel Axle for Reversible Suspension? Does it feel any different? Thks!
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Old 09-14-2009, 02:11 AM   #10661
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The Ver.2 wheel axle is the same as the TB-03 wheel axle, so I don't think the lightweight axle will work.
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:03 AM   #10662
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Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer View Post
If your silver can is not that hot try adding 1 or 2 teeth to the pinion. I wanna say we ran about a 4.8 in our silver cans
Is 4.8 the normal FDR for silvercan for any car? Shouldn't the stock 7.16 be the recommended for silvercan?
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:01 AM   #10663
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Personally, I'm not a shelf queen type of hobbyist, so putting it real work made more sense for me. The 934 body and wheels are kept safe, just in case...

Since then, I've also played with the front and rear roll centres, added sway bars at both ends and it's a very competitive car.

Standard touring car wheels and tyres work great (currently use Sorex 28's for night-time racing and Muchmore 32 Absolutes for daytime duties). 1mm wheel spacers on the front and 0.5mm wheel spacers at the back.

Phil.
I guess when I say race, I mean take it to the track, I forget that there's real racers out there

My body won't be kept safe I'll try to keep my safe, but no guarantees. It'll be interesting to see if the quick guys will pass me with plenty of rooom..

thanks for all the info.
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:37 PM   #10664
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just a question for some ta05 owners. Iam newer to the hobby and purchased a used ta05r a few months ago. I love the car and recently have been racing it on asphalt. Iam now addicted. Iam also addicted to hop-ups ect. I have been spending alot on Tamiya hop-ups (no 3racing or square). I was about to order some more items (maybe not neccesary but part of what makes the hobby fun). My question before I own a 600$ Ta05, Is this chassis worth it or should I just spend the money on a used Ta05ms or used trf416. I plan to keep racing.Thanks for your opinions, I do love the Ta05 and its easy to drive and maintain.
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Old 09-15-2009, 08:06 PM   #10665
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just a question for some ta05 owners. Iam newer to the hobby and purchased a used ta05r a few months ago. I love the car and recently have been racing it on asphalt. Iam now addicted. Iam also addicted to hop-ups ect. I have been spending alot on Tamiya hop-ups (no 3racing or square). I was about to order some more items (maybe not neccesary but part of what makes the hobby fun). My question before I own a 600$ Ta05, Is this chassis worth it or should I just spend the money on a used Ta05ms or used trf416. I plan to keep racing.Thanks for your opinions, I do love the Ta05 and its easy to drive and maintain.
Good to hear you're enjoying it. The TA05 is a great car that's very responsive to tuning changes, so it's a perfect choice for someone who is getting in to racing an is trying to learn the ropes.

The TA05 is a fairly flexible chassis, so it's well suited to outdoor tracks (especially if they're rough). Being quite solid, it makes the handling predictable and gives a 'planted' feel.

On the question of upgrades, you don't need to go nuts to make a TA05 perform. As I've said earlier, I think ball bearings for the steering, a good servo saver and a hex-drive screw kit are all must-haves. For racing in stock class, the kit dampers work just fine - all you need is a couple of tuning spring kits. The flex of the kit chassis and towers means they're less likely to break in a crash, something we all do a lot of starting out

Stock racing is where the TA05 shines - if want to move up into Mod class, this is where you'll struggle to keep up with the 416 cars, which have the stiffness and fine tuning capabilities to handle the speed and power. Super Stock could go either way: depends on your priorities.

I've also got a 415, and personally, I'd take a 416WE over the TA05MS any day of the week. Don't see too many MSes at the Worlds...

But ultimately, I enjoy truing squeeze every last bit of performance out of my TA05, and it's still a better car than I am a driver .
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