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Old 09-02-2009, 11:32 AM   #10621
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Too loose and the belts will skip on the pulleys under hard acceleration.

Too tight and they will bind up the drive train.

I go by feel on how tight they should be. I can't put it in words though
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Old 09-02-2009, 11:32 AM   #10622
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Hey all. I'm new to onroad and got a used TA-05 in great condition. I'm in the process of breaking it down, cleaning it, and all that jazz.

Question: how "tensioned" should the drive belts be? Currently, I'm wondering if they are too loose? Is that even possible? What would the impact of that be?
as loose as possible without slipping. If I press one of the belts in the middle it pushes down about 1cm.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:11 PM   #10623
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As said above, you will know it if they are too loose. My suggestion, build it as per the manual and see if they slip. If they do, tighten them one notch on the diffs at a time till they stop.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:53 PM   #10624
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As said above, you will know it if they are too loose. My suggestion, build it as per the manual and see if they slip. If they do, tighten them one notch on the diffs at a time till they stop.
Don't be so sure that I would know . What happens when driving if the belt slips? How would I be able to tell?

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Originally Posted by joe of loath
as loose as possible without slipping. If I press one of the belts in the middle it pushes down about 1cm.
Hm, perhaps mine is too loose then. I believe mine pushed down nearly 2cm. I've only actually raced this car once, and it was my first on-road race, so I don't know how to tell by driving whether it's too loose.

While I'm at it, I'm wondering whether to restore the entire car to stock, or leave it as the previous owner had it (for instance, front one-ways, different shock positions, etc.).
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Old 09-02-2009, 01:22 PM   #10625
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Not sure why do you want to upgrade it? Some universals are a good investment as are alloy shocks some good shock towers and alloy suspension holders but beyond that I am not sure it is anything other than bling.

My TA05R is upgraded beyond a 416WE but the upgrades cost more than the car (and more than a 416WE). The only thing I didn't buy was the blue motor mount I guess. I did it because I didn't know much about what I needed and what not and having had a short window of opportunity I bought everything (upgrades) before the car had arrived to take advantage of a good exchange rate. I can tell you, you don't need much to make it into a serious racer.
sounds good
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Old 09-02-2009, 02:33 PM   #10626
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Don't be so sure that I would know . What happens when driving if the belt slips? How would I be able to tell?
It makes a pretty distinct noise when they slip. You can also test with the body off. Hold the car on the ground by the rear of the car with one hand. Blip the throttle on the radio and if they are slipping you should see it.
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:51 PM   #10627
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sounds good
The good part is that it is much nicer to work on the car though I don't work that much on it. The diffs have been replaced a season ago with aluminium ones and received ceramic balls and never had to be rebuilt since. I use my own design diff covers and race indoors though.

The other good part was that even though I paid a lot of money, that was only about 1/2 of what I would have paid had the exchange rate been its usual self.

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It makes a pretty distinct noise when they slip. You can also test with the body off. Hold the car on the ground by the rear of the car with one hand. Blip the throttle on the radio and if they are slipping you should see it.
That can be misleading. Your hand can apply forces to the car that the car itself will never have to deal with. My recommendation is that you try to slam the brakes at full throttle. If the belt is too loose that's when it will skip because that's when the belt is under the strongest tension it has to deal with. Acceleration will never produce such tension. Sure, you have to have some solid brakes and good tires. If you lock the wheels, the tension may be too high. Remeber you have to find the sweet spot just like in a real car, without locking the wheels because that is counterproductive.
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Last edited by niznai; 09-03-2009 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:55 AM   #10628
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Default belt tension

Quote:
Originally Posted by jolson88 View Post
Question: how "tensioned" should the drive belts be? Currently, I'm wondering if they are too loose? Is that even possible? What would the impact of that be?
The looser the belts, the less friction there will be. They're only too loose if they're slipping on the pulleys.



This is how loose I run mine (when running a 27T Stock motor). It may not be clear from the animation, but when I push down on the front belt, it easily touches the centre bracket and the ball end on the steering turnbuckle. Tension on the rear belt is about the the same.

Keep in mind that for more powerful motors, you might need to run them a little bit tighter.
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:27 AM   #10629
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Tehre is another problem with belts as loose as that even if they don't skip. They may

a. rub on the chassis/parts

b. they may start "bouncing" as oscillations build up in the un-tensioned side (the tensioned side is the one at the bottom where the motor is pulling the diff around). Parasitic oscillations like that are energy drains on the belt even if the belt doesn't rub on anything.

Also, when braking/slowing down (i.e. off power) the slack is distributed the other way around (the bottom part is slack, the top part is under tension) and when you get back on power you lose some time before the slack is picked up. It may not be significant, or you may get used to it and accelerate earlier, but it will happen.
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:15 AM   #10630
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That can be misleading. Your hand can apply forces to the car that the car itself will never have to deal with. My recommendation is that you try to slam the brakes at full throttle. If the belt is too loose that's when it will skip because that's when the belt is under the strongest tension it has to deal with. Acceleration will never produce such tension. Sure, you have to have some solid brakes and good tires. If you lock the wheels, the tension may be too high. Remeber you have to find the sweet spot just like in a real car, without locking the wheels because that is counterproductive.
I am not saying hold the car down with force. Just keep it from moving forward. Use the cars own weight to hold it on the ground.

And I agree, the belts in the animation there are too loose for my taste.

Anyway jolson88, as you can see everyone has their own way of doing the belts. Once you start getting a feel for it and try a few things you will find what works for you and your car.
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Old 09-03-2009, 09:54 AM   #10631
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Anyway jolson88, as you can see everyone has their own way of doing the belts. Once you start getting a feel for it and try a few things you will find what works for you and your car.
Yup . Thanks for the tips everybody! This helps a bunch.
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:39 PM   #10632
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i am looking at maybe getting a ta05 what kit should i get or not get and how much should it cost and where is the best place to get one from
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:47 PM   #10633
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played some with the belt tension today, and i have discovered that the front belt has to be really tight to hold up and not flip over of skipping, the rear belt can be quite loose without skipping.

drove the car with a 4.5 and 2s lipo today, i really love this car more and more, handles like a dream!
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Old 09-05-2009, 12:51 PM   #10634
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i am looking at maybe getting a ta05 what kit should i get or not get and how much should it cost and where is the best place to get one from
TA05 Ver2, all the latest improvements right in the box, just buy a front shock tower if you dont want to build your car with the inboard suspension

costs about $170 and i recommend rc champ, rcmodel or rcmart
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Old 09-10-2009, 01:14 AM   #10635
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How compatible are bodies marked for "TA04" with the TA05? Specifically, I'm hoping to run this body with my TA05: Subaru Impreza WRC '04. Also, will 200mm bodies work, or do I need to stick with 190mm?
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