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Old 08-27-2009, 03:38 AM   #10591
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Hatebreed, I don't want to suggest the obvious, but the pulley tensioners are eccentric, so if one hasnt matched up with the other, (easy to do if you're putting the diff back in with a hurry) it might throw the belt off.

Otherwise, its just stretched and needs retensioning.

I've used a 19t and not had any problem with the standard belts, i've heard of people having problems with the lower friction belts though...

There might also be a slim chance that one of your diff bearings is on its way out and stiff to turn, throwing out the balance of the differential action...
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:39 AM   #10592
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no, have double checked everything, and also replaced the pulleys with new ones, and the ver2 low friction belts, but i will triple check it to make sure

have never had these problems before with any car besides a cheap kyosho car back in the early 90`s

but the 5.5 is a quite powerful motor, and i have a 4.5 i want to test (drive on a LARGE asphalt track)

going to check again and try, if not good after that i`m considering switching car (as you might have seen in another thread)
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:53 AM   #10593
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Not that it makes a difference, but I use a spool, are you using a spool, or a diff on the front?
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:24 AM   #10594
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i`m using a "semispool" its a very tight front diff, acts almost like a spool but has a little movement in crashes to save the driveshafts

the car handles very well, but its time for indoor season soon so time for oneways in the car! (front and center for a free rolling drivetrain)

thought about rebuild the car to a ver2 but its not so cost effective compared to buying a new car so i`m not sure what to do for the winter, current car, ver2 or the now quite famous 416we copy (that depends on what other drivers can say about it compared to the original before i make a descicion)
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:34 AM   #10595
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If you still have the standard belts, (mine are black) i'd try putting one back in and see if it helps.

Seems to me that they are more durable and worry free

I doubt the pulleys are at fault, well, ive never heard of any issues with them, but never say never...

How much sideways movement is there in the differentials? There shouldnt be much, just a little to prevent any binding.

If you do have any excess movement, get 1 or 2 thin metal shims inbetween the outdrives and the bearings, just to rule that out.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:28 AM   #10596
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Tub chassis tweak is normal. As stated by Rearend, it's a part of the molding/cooling process. I have it in both my plastic tub and carbon tub chassis. Just compensate with your droop settings. I think on one of my old TCS setups, in the front I had 3mm left droop and 4mm right droop. In the rear I had 4mm left droop and 3mm right droop. It did not affect handling at all.

I have my TA05 back together now. I have the weight down to about 1420g race ready. Should be interesting to run it again.
Interesting. My first thought was to compensate with the droop screws, but many local racers (national lever, sponsored racers) told me it's better to keep the droop screws even and compensate with the spring pre-load.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:30 AM   #10597
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The prefix does mean something. There is an A block and a 1A block. The prefix "1" means it sits 1mm shorter/lower. This was introduced on the TRF415 while the Evolution cars still used the standard height blocks. My TB Evo 3 & 4 use the taller blocks without the prefix. As you can see in the photos, the A block is obviously taller...

PS: The reason for the change was to allow a lower roll center. To raise the roll center, with the 1A block, you simply add shims below the block...
Thanks for pointing this out - I've learnt something new today

I've had no experience with TB Evos, only with TRFs, so I guess that's how I missed this one. Cheers.
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:08 AM   #10598
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Hey guys - what do I want for weight distrobution? I got my scale out and checked all the corners and the side-to-side and front-to-back. With battery and body and ready to go the car was 1426. I race in a parking lot with no rules as to minimums so I am just looking for the right balance to the car. Do I want side to side to be even? What about front to back?

Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:32 AM   #10599
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Hatebreed,

I believe the ver.2 and IFS are a 2.11 tranny and the original ta05 is 2.25. The newer belts would be a bit longer and would require you to move the notch to tighten them up. For your consideration.....

Last night I went through my TA05 in depth and got it back to almost new (5 yr old. car). The tranny is super smooth again. I recently bought a used 007 and I love it, but missed my Ta05. I'll probably use it for VTA or maybe some 17.5 action. Can't wait!
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:37 AM   #10600
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[QUOTE=big al;6264605]Hatebreed,

I believe the ver.2 and IFS are a 2.11 tranny and the original ta05 is 2.25. QUOTE]

TA05 IFS is 2,25
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Old 08-27-2009, 01:51 PM   #10601
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i have a IFS R (found the std ta05 way too expensive when calculating on the cost of optionparts, only thing i had to buy was the front shock tower with the ifs) my internal ratio is 2.05 and that is the same with ver2 (18t center and 37t diff pulleys)

btw what sus blocks are you using for indoor on carpet with rubber tires? shockoil i guess would be between 40-50wt?
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:27 PM   #10602
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im sure im about to beat a dead horse...but....

thoughts on the 3racing graphite chassis? the 416C isnt looking too hot, i might have to go this route now to get a more suitable chassis :P
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:15 PM   #10603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
Interesting. My first thought was to compensate with the droop screws, but many local racers (national lever, sponsored racers) told me it's better to keep the droop screws even and compensate with the spring pre-load.
Depends what they mean even. And how you interpret my droop. If using Tamiya's droop guage (as I measured when I wrote down my TCS setup), you measure off the bottom of the chassis.

If your chassis is warped (as mine is), and if you set it even left to right with the Tamiya droop gauge.... then your droop is uneven if you measured droop from setup board to under the outer arms.

But, if you can set it up uneven from the droop gauge so that it reads even when you measure it from the setup board. Then this should be all right. That is how mine was done. If this makes any sense.

Adjusting with preload is setting up tweak from a tweak station. You cannot get ride height even left to right because the chassis is warped. One side will be higher than the other. So I don't know how preload comes into play with droop settings?
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Old 08-28-2009, 12:16 AM   #10604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatebreed View Post
i have a IFS R (found the std ta05 way too expensive when calculating on the cost of optionparts, only thing i had to buy was the front shock tower with the ifs) my internal ratio is 2.05 and that is the same with ver2 (18t center and 37t diff pulleys)

btw what sus blocks are you using for indoor on carpet with rubber tires? shockoil i guess would be between 40-50wt?
Ok. I'll be sure to remember that, but I think you missed the point. If your belts flip over, tighten the eccentric housing by one. Switching to a new car seems odd when the design of the car allows you to fix the problem without buying any parts. People across the planet aren't having this problem with properly adjusted belts.
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Old 08-28-2009, 02:45 AM   #10605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatebreed View Post
i have a IFS R (found the std ta05 way too expensive when calculating on the cost of optionparts, only thing i had to buy was the front shock tower with the ifs) my internal ratio is 2.05 and that is the same with ver2 (18t center and 37t diff pulleys)

btw what sus blocks are you using for indoor on carpet with rubber tires? shockoil i guess would be between 40-50wt?
I'm using the trf blocks as the stock plastic ones popped out the hinge pin on a heavy impact.

I use 1 degree on the rear on the blocks, 2deg (stock) hubs.

Oil, 45wt front, 40wt rear, 3hole pistons, sorex 24, LRP additive, although most brands work fine

I got my ta05, trf shocks and 3racing v1 chassis overseas when the exchange rate was good, so I got a good deal...
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