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Old 08-17-2009, 07:05 PM   #10561
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dsyed1: I made the plate myself - I measured the battery bay, cut a rectangle out of a piece of scrap brass that someone gave me after I asked around, then filed some rebates for the posts and centre bulkhead, and finally gave it a quick hand polish (my friends say I'm [email protected], but I deny it - I only polished the top ).

Because I've had a couple of people ask, I'll take down the exact dimensions and post a little plan/tute

JimmyMac: YGPM.
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Old 08-19-2009, 11:47 PM   #10562
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Default Battery weight plate

Here's a true scale scan of the brass plate. If you print it with 'no scaling', you should wind up with an accurate template (you might have to take another mm off to allow for the tiny shadow that it cast). It's a VERY close fit - you might need to file a little more off of the edges to get it perfect.



Also, I remeasured it and it is actually only 1mm thick, but still 60g - even better.
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Old 08-20-2009, 09:16 AM   #10563
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Here's a true scale scan of the brass plate. If you print it with 'no scaling', you should wind up with an accurate template (you might have to take another mm off to allow for the tiny shadow that it cast). It's a VERY close fit - you might need to file a little more off of the edges to get it perfect.



Also, I remeasured it and it is actually only 1mm thick, but still 60g - even better.


nice... thanks admiral
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Old 08-20-2009, 11:29 AM   #10564
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.......
I actually experimented with making extra brass pieces that fit in the cell holes and fix (glue? tape?) to the main plate, but the plastic chassis is only 2mm thick there now, and anything I made hung too low. Besides, using brass for this would only add another 15 or so grams - much easier to add a stick-on lead weight to the tub just in front of the battery bay. The cast lead is an interesting idea - how did the chassis handle the heat when you poured it?

EDIT - I see what you mean now - pressed it in, took it out and it held the shape. I am an idiot.
.....
GO to bunnings, buy a sheet of lead flashing and that's the right thickness to allow you to stick the weights in the chassis slots (to the bottom of your brass sheet) with carpet tape or automotive double sided tape. The flashing is than 1.5mm thick. Six pieces in the battery slots would give you about 60grams of weight, and the benefit is they'll sit lower than everything else. If you look in the YR F2 thread you can see my latest weight tray cut out from lead flashing.

No, you're not. You got the idea. I am too lazy to put photos.
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:45 PM   #10565
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Default Be careful with lead...

The problem with lead vs brass is that lead is poisonous. I've worked with plumbers who won't handle lead flashing without gloves on, because it can be absorbed through the skin from handling it repeatedly, and lead (no pun intended) to all sorts of serious health problems. I don't want to sound paranoid, but why chance it when the the brass is tougher (and looks cooler )?
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:17 PM   #10566
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The problem with lead vs brass is that lead is poisonous. I've worked with plumbers who won't handle lead flashing without gloves on, because it can be absorbed through the skin from handling it repeatedly, and lead (no pun intended) to all sorts of serious health problems. I don't want to sound paranoid, but why chance it when the the brass is tougher (and looks cooler )?
Yes, I know, but you're not going to get anywhere near the dose you need for it to become a problem. Using solder with lead in it is more dangerous because it vapourises some of it (albeit a minute amount), whereas using lead in solid state is easily managed by just washing your hands.

Aiborne lead is the real pollution problem and that comes from many other industrial and commercial sources (such as leaded fuels). After 50 years of exposure to airborne lead (since the introduction of leaded fuels) I think we're either f****d already or out of it.
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:51 AM   #10567
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Just a thought, but if the lead was painted (and maybe in a colour to match your car/electronics etc etc) then washed down, it would probably be safer to handle?

Be safe out there though!
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:57 AM   #10568
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Yeah, I thought about that too. I suppose using some sort of lacquer might make it safer, but then again, these days you don't know anymore what's more toxic, the paint or the lead?
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:07 AM   #10569
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True, but on another point of veiw, whilst racing, our hands come into contact with allsorts of things, and then it's lunchtime....

Paragon sandwiches anyone?

Joking aside, you could heatshrink it...

Ding ding ding, we have a winner?
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:34 AM   #10570
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FAr from me to encourage anyone to poison themselves. Good hygiene can never go astray, but lead is the leats of my worries when I have to have a snack. Come to think of it, I remember a mechanic telling me that after replacing asbestos brake pads for being hazardous it was discovered some of the new materials used had more carcinogenic compounds than the old linings! I think this is a case of the more you look into it the more frightening it gets. There has to be an enough is enough point I guess.

But talking to you guys here, i had a thought. I will try to use the old bodyshell paint. That is flexible enough to stay put even if I dent/bend the undertray (which is very easy). Good idea.
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:42 AM   #10571
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Good plan, hope it works out well...
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:29 PM   #10572
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Hello, I have a Tamiya TA05 with a few up-grades.I race nitro off road but I'm new at racing touring cars.So before I take it out to the track I'll like to know if there is any thing I'm missing to be competitive.here is what I have :
TRF shocks ,graphite top-deck ,graphite shock tower ,graphite bumper support , graphite front an rear brace, light weight aluminum rear dog bones,front cvds, Duratrax Racing ESC (forward only, programable), Epic KOMODO Stock motor. Thanks
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Old 08-24-2009, 10:38 PM   #10573
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Hello, I have a Tamiya TA05 with a few up-grades.I race nitro off road but I'm new at racing touring cars.So before I take it out to the track I'll like to know if there is any thing I'm missing to be competitive.here is what I have :
TRF shocks ,graphite top-deck ,graphite shock tower ,graphite bumper support , graphite front an rear brace, light weight aluminum rear dog bones,front cvds, Duratrax Racing ESC (forward only, programable), Epic KOMODO Stock motor. Thanks
Have you raced yet? How does your skill level compare against the field? I would worry about that before I would worry about upgrades because no upgrades in the world are going to make your car competitive if you are not.

Some of those upgrades are good to have (not necessary though) whilst some (such as the graphite bumper support (!?) I am not sure what are supposed to do). Don't know anything about that speedy or the motor, but a stock motor is a stock motor, that is a spec class, so I am not sure how you'd upgrade something that is meant to be spec.
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Old 08-25-2009, 02:26 AM   #10574
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I agree with niznai completely - no amount of hop-ups will get you back the time lost through mistakes and lapses of concentration.

Having said that, I would consider these things as helpful changes;

- hex drive screw kit (doesn't need to be Titanium - I've got stainless - but makes maintenance much easier and therefore enjoyable)
- ball bearings for the steering (improves steering precision)
- tuning spring set (getting the dampers and spring rate dialed is the key to a fast and predictable stock set-up)
- range of damper oils (got to match the damping to the spring rate)
- front & rear sway bars (less important than the right spring rate, but handy if you race on a smooth, high grip track)
- good quaility servo saver (mine would never track straight or centre properly with the stock one - replaced it (with a Kimbrough 204 I think...) and it solved most of my steering problems).
- camber and ride height gauges (as with springs and dampers, getting the set-up right will make the car smoother and much more fun to drive, not to mention faster)

These are all nice things to have, but the TA05 will do well straight out of the box. Remember, the faster you go, the more likely you are to crash, and the more likely you are to break something. Speed is something that comes while you are practising good form.

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-25-2009, 03:20 AM   #10575
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Default Rear Damper Stay and Mounting Holes

Hi guys. I am thinking of installing the Carbon Rear Damper Stay. But does it affect the position of the rear mounting holes? If I am using the same body shell, do I have to ream 2 different holes? Please englighten me. Thanks
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