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Old 08-14-2009, 05:43 AM   #10546
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I use the TC5 carbonfiber strap with their blue thumbscrews. Work perfect and looks good.
Thank you, I was wondering if the TC5 strap would fit or not. I will have to have a look at the local shop.
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Old 08-15-2009, 12:59 AM   #10547
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I had the same problem with my SMC hard case. I drilled as small hole in the middle of the stock plastc battery holder. Then I could run the pin through that instead of above the battery holder.
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Old 08-15-2009, 05:20 AM   #10548
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rknott, not sure I follow. Do you have a pic?
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Old 08-15-2009, 08:33 AM   #10549
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rknott, not sure I follow. Do you have a pic?
Normally you put the strap on, put the body clip through the hole in the post. The body clip is above the battery strap.

Since the strap is thick plastic, instead of unscrewing the post; so that the body clip can still be put in above the strap, he drilled a hole in the strap so that the body pin now goes through the strap and the post.
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:43 PM   #10550
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rknott, not sure I follow. Do you have a pic?
Cell phone pics, so quality is low, but it should be good enough.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-image_007.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-image_006.jpg  
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:12 AM   #10551
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Thank you, pics worked just fine. I may have to try that!
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:22 AM   #10552
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Has anyone tried 51103 (TB Evo IV C parts - Front Upright) on TA05? Is it carbon reinforced material?
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Old 08-16-2009, 07:42 PM   #10553
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Just thought I'd post my lipo mod.

I started by grinding off the cell cradles with a Dremel in order to get a nice, flat base that would let the lipo hardcase sit as low in the chassis as possible. This took about 20g off the chassis and didn't increase the flex at all.



I made a plate to sit under the battery from 2mm brass plate which adds back 60g (which I need to get the car back to legal weight).



The brass plate puts the weight just about as low in the chassis as it can go.



I still use the stock battery strap, but I used a belt sander to grind off the arched cell holders, so I can run it with the Tamiya logo up.



I also sanded the top off so I didn't have to raise the battery posts.



Now the battery sits low and it's all good (note the brass plate in the motor access hole in the chassis side).

.

I'm happy with how this worked out - obviously not Tamiya legal, but it helps me try to keep up with the Xrays and the Corallys

My next mod will be a couple of thin slots in the chassis base so I can run battery tape instead of the strap - should be a bit more secure and help to keep sideways movement to a minimum.

Let me know what you think.
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Old 08-17-2009, 12:49 AM   #10554
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Awesome set up! I don't like cutting down the chassis, but having my lipo "riding hight" can't be helping my performance. I might have to give this a try.
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:29 AM   #10555
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I don't like cutting chassies either so I went with laying a strip of lead weight used for alloy wheels down the center of the chassis next to the transmission wall as low as it fits. It is stuck to the wall, so it sits vertically.

Another possibility is to use shaped weights that fit under the battery, on the bottom of the chassis. I have used this method in another car and I think it is the best way to keep weight low. Even for our friend above who used brass, such weights can be attached to the bottom of the brass sheet in the battery slots. It's easy to cut the shape out of lead and stick the weight with very thin double sided tape.

Another thing I did with my TA05 was to pour molten lead in molds made after the cavities in the chassis. I used aluminium foil from pies bought in supermarkets which is thick enough to keep the shape and it worked a treat. That way I have made custom weights that fit perfectly in the chassis. These can be held down with self tapping screws from below where the chassis allows or again double sided tape (my choice).
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Old 08-17-2009, 02:34 AM   #10556
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Nice dremel job! I'm pulling out my TA05 and plastic tub and setting it up for parking lot racing. I might have to do that with mine.
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Old 08-17-2009, 04:40 AM   #10557
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Thanks, all. I wasn't too sure about cutting up the chassis at first, but I thought, well, if I mess it up it'd be a good excuse to get a carbon reinforced one

I actually experimented with making extra brass pieces that fit in the cell holes and fix (glue? tape?) to the main plate, but the plastic chassis is only 2mm thick there now, and anything I made hung too low. Besides, using brass for this would only add another 15 or so grams - much easier to add a stick-on lead weight to the tub just in front of the battery bay. The cast lead is an interesting idea - how did the chassis handle the heat when you poured it?

EDIT - I see what you mean now - pressed it in, took it out and it held the shape. I am an idiot.

JimmyMac: I see you've got a TRF415 (MSX?) MRE - I just bought one (chassis) in mint cond. I'm having trouble letting go of the TA05, but my club (Adelaide Electric in South Australia, check out the thread) has just moved to a new track that is quite smooth and has painted it with grip paint, so the advantages of the plastic TA05 will be no more. Now I've just got to find some money to get the TRF up and running...
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:52 AM   #10558
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very nice setup admiral.. are you building the brass plate yourself? or buying from some where...

i am using a similar technique.. instead of the brass plate I have laid down 10 us quarters (25c) flat and duct taped them together ... flat like the brass plate and placed it under my lipo battery... it is about 60g in weight so almost the right amount of weight
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Old 08-17-2009, 01:19 PM   #10559
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very nice setup admiral.. are you building the brass plate yourself? or buying from some where...

i am using a similar technique.. instead of the brass plate I have laid down 10 us quarters (25c) flat and duct taped them together ... flat like the brass plate and placed it under my lipo battery... it is about 60g in weight so almost the right amount of weight
AND you can stop off at the arcade on the way home
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Old 08-17-2009, 06:28 PM   #10560
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Thanks, all. I wasn't too sure about cutting up the chassis at first, but I thought, well, if I mess it up it'd be a good excuse to get a carbon reinforced one

I actually experimented with making extra brass pieces that fit in the cell holes and fix (glue? tape?) to the main plate, but the plastic chassis is only 2mm thick there now, and anything I made hung too low. Besides, using brass for this would only add another 15 or so grams - much easier to add a stick-on lead weight to the tub just in front of the battery bay. The cast lead is an interesting idea - how did the chassis handle the heat when you poured it?

EDIT - I see what you mean now - pressed it in, took it out and it held the shape. I am an idiot.

JimmyMac: I see you've got a TRF415 (MSX?) MRE - I just bought one (chassis) in mint cond. I'm having trouble letting go of the TA05, but my club (Adelaide Electric in South Australia, check out the thread) has just moved to a new track that is quite smooth and has painted it with grip paint, so the advantages of the plastic TA05 will be no more. Now I've just got to find some money to get the TRF up and running...
Yeah, the 415MRE is kind of a pain in the butt car for me. You should just get the carbon tub chassis and bits for the TA05. It'll stiffen it up more for your new track. They don't cost much either.
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