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Old 05-04-2009, 08:59 AM   #10411
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Try stella models on eBay for dampers.
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Old 05-05-2009, 11:53 AM   #10412
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Thanks, I also ran across 3racing dampers too. Are these any good?
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:22 PM   #10413
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I have been running the 3 Racing Shocks and have not had a problem with them yet. Although I have not tried a set of the Tamiya Dampers to compare them to.

But at almost half the cost, I think they are doing just fine.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:15 PM   #10414
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Originally Posted by Smileyboy View Post
Thanks, I also ran across 3racing dampers too. Are these any good?
At one time I had 3 TA05s 2 had Tamiya shocks and 1 had the 3 racing.

Personally, I'd spend the money and get Tamiya. Go to one of the Ebay sellers in Japan, good prices, decent shipping times.

I've used both Rdvtg-Hobbies & Vellrip
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:30 PM   #10415
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thanks I will. In the mean time. Are there any other springs that will work with my stock shocks? My LHS carries team lodi and asociated stuff. Thx
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:04 PM   #10416
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Personally, I'd spend the money and get Tamiya. Go to one of the Ebay sellers in Japan, good prices, decent shipping times.

I've used both Rdvtg-Hobbies & Vellrip
I agree. I tried the 3racing dampers - aren't bad, but they're definitely not the same standard as the Tamiyas. Also, my Tamiya springs wouldn't fit on the 3racing dampers without binding, and I didn't feel like buying another dozen springs...

In the end, I've gone back to the (much under-rated) kit dampers - they work great, have never leaked, are light, and take a pounding.

Rdvtg is my favourite shop at the mo - great prices, and dirt-cheap postage to here (Aus).
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:11 PM   #10417
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Originally Posted by Smileyboy View Post
thanks I will. In the mean time. Are there any other springs that will work with my stock shocks? My LHS carries team lodi and asociated stuff. Thx
I got a couple of Tamiya tuning spring sets from an eBay store in Asia - don't remember which one. Stella, Jason's, Vellrip, Dinball? I race on the kit dampers with these springs and Losi oils - works fine for silvercan/27T. I don't know if the Losi/AE springs will fit - you'll have to take a damper down and try it for size. Tamiya won't fit 3Racing, and they're both Asian/metric, so I have my doubts...
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Old 05-06-2009, 05:40 AM   #10418
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That's center 1 way and also run front 1-way diff.
Sorry about this noob question, but what is the advantage of having the centre one way pulley hop up?

Thanks.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:53 AM   #10419
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Theoretically more steering but this needs to be qualified depending on grip conditions. Basically the car becomes rear wheel drive in corners. Brakes work only on rear wheels too. Off power the rear wheels slow the car down, the front is free rolling.
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Old 05-06-2009, 04:34 PM   #10420
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So it's probably not very good for drifting then?
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Old 05-07-2009, 12:58 AM   #10421
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Basically the car becomes rear wheel drive in corners.
Only off the power. With a centre one-way, the car is 4wd under power, with the front keeping the diff action (unlike a with front one-way). Only the rear wheels operate under brakes - the front coasts. So, braking gives a rear-only handbrake effect - good for stepping the back out, but when you power down you get 4wd again, and the front wheels help to pull it around.

IMO, a centre one-way and a spool in the rear is the drift set-up.
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:24 AM   #10422
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Only off the power. With a centre one-way, the car is 4wd under power, with the front keeping the diff action (unlike a with front one-way).
That's very difficult to quantify. Theory says that as long as the rear wheels don't slip and they follow a tighter line than the front, then you're in 2WD mode with a center one-way. This is because the rear end of the car will travel a shorter distance, therefore if there is no slip in the diff or at the wheels, the angular speed of the rear diff pulley is going to be controlled by the center pulley (by the car's internal gear ratio).

At the front, the angular speed of the outdrives will be that of the wheels (again assuming no wheel or diff slip) which is going to translate in a faster angular speed at the front diff pulley than that imposed by the centre pulley, because the wheels have to travel further in the same amount of time, hence they spin faster, overtaking the angular speed of the centre pulley. The centre pulley driving the front diff being on a one-way bearing, it will allow the front then to spin faster than the motor dictates effectivelly meaning that the front wheels will just spin pushed by the car's trajectory.


True, it is not the same thing as with a front one way, in the sense that there is still diff action at the front, therefore the car will tend to oversteer rather than understeer (which it does with a front one-way on power) untill the rear catches up with the angular speed of the front. This however needs some slip to happen somewhere (either at the wheels or the diffs). More often than not it's the rear end stepping out a bit which brings the balance (the rear wheels end up travelling a longer distance than they normally would therefore reaching equal speed to the front). I think this is the first step to drifting.

You will notice I have mentioned a lot of conditions of non slip. As soon as any of these conditions are broken, it is difficult to ascertain what is happening. That's why I mentioned that everything I say is valid "in theory". Practice always finds a way to stump theory however.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:13 AM   #10423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai View Post
You will notice I have mentioned a lot of conditions of non slip. As soon as any of these conditions are broken, it is difficult to ascertain what is happening. That's why I mentioned that everything I say is valid "in theory". Practice always finds a way to stump theory however.
That is very difficult to conceptualize when you take it that tires are pretty much always operating under slip angles. But I do understand that you can apply power and not be driving the front wheels because the front wheels can freewheel at a pace faster than what the drive train is spinning at.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:23 AM   #10424
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Very true. That's why I would take all this stuff only as theory (i.e. valid, but under very controlled circumstances, which is almost never the case in practice). Tuning cars with one-way diffs and/or centres is very much a hands-on exercise and greatly depends on understanding what is happening with the car whilst actually driving it (in real time that is).
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Old 05-09-2009, 04:40 AM   #10425
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Default layshaft c-clips

Anyone have any tips on how to remove the c-clips from the layshaft??? I need to replace the pulleys, but am having a tough time getting the c-clips off so I can change out the pulleys.

For once, I'm actually wishing there was an E-clip instead. hehe.
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