Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan >

Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Like Tree25Likes

Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 05-04-2009, 07:59 AM
  #10411  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Rear Admiral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Adelaide, Sth Aust.
Posts: 47
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Try stella models on eBay for dampers.
Rear Admiral is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 10:53 AM
  #10412  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Smileyboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 234
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Thanks, I also ran across 3racing dampers too. Are these any good?
Smileyboy is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 11:22 AM
  #10413  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (81)
 
Blacktiger355's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,197
Trader Rating: 81 (99%+)
Default

I have been running the 3 Racing Shocks and have not had a problem with them yet. Although I have not tried a set of the Tamiya Dampers to compare them to.

But at almost half the cost, I think they are doing just fine.
Blacktiger355 is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 01:15 PM
  #10414  
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
 
TwoTone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,002
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Smileyboy View Post
Thanks, I also ran across 3racing dampers too. Are these any good?
At one time I had 3 TA05s 2 had Tamiya shocks and 1 had the 3 racing.

Personally, I'd spend the money and get Tamiya. Go to one of the Ebay sellers in Japan, good prices, decent shipping times.

I've used both Rdvtg-Hobbies & Vellrip
TwoTone is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 03:30 PM
  #10415  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Smileyboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 234
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

thanks I will. In the mean time. Are there any other springs that will work with my stock shocks? My LHS carries team lodi and asociated stuff. Thx
Smileyboy is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 04:04 PM
  #10416  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Rear Admiral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Adelaide, Sth Aust.
Posts: 47
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
Personally, I'd spend the money and get Tamiya. Go to one of the Ebay sellers in Japan, good prices, decent shipping times.

I've used both Rdvtg-Hobbies & Vellrip
I agree. I tried the 3racing dampers - aren't bad, but they're definitely not the same standard as the Tamiyas. Also, my Tamiya springs wouldn't fit on the 3racing dampers without binding, and I didn't feel like buying another dozen springs...

In the end, I've gone back to the (much under-rated) kit dampers - they work great, have never leaked, are light, and take a pounding.

Rdvtg is my favourite shop at the mo - great prices, and dirt-cheap postage to here (Aus).
Rear Admiral is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 04:11 PM
  #10417  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Rear Admiral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Adelaide, Sth Aust.
Posts: 47
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Smileyboy View Post
thanks I will. In the mean time. Are there any other springs that will work with my stock shocks? My LHS carries team lodi and asociated stuff. Thx
I got a couple of Tamiya tuning spring sets from an eBay store in Asia - don't remember which one. Stella, Jason's, Vellrip, Dinball? I race on the kit dampers with these springs and Losi oils - works fine for silvercan/27T. I don't know if the Losi/AE springs will fit - you'll have to take a damper down and try it for size. Tamiya won't fit 3Racing, and they're both Asian/metric, so I have my doubts...
Rear Admiral is offline  
Old 05-06-2009, 04:40 AM
  #10418  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 239
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by akuhon View Post
That's center 1 way and also run front 1-way diff.
Sorry about this noob question, but what is the advantage of having the centre one way pulley hop up?

Thanks.
rnd_tang is offline  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:53 AM
  #10419  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,965
Default

Theoretically more steering but this needs to be qualified depending on grip conditions. Basically the car becomes rear wheel drive in corners. Brakes work only on rear wheels too. Off power the rear wheels slow the car down, the front is free rolling.
niznai is offline  
Old 05-06-2009, 03:34 PM
  #10420  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 239
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

So it's probably not very good for drifting then?
rnd_tang is offline  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:58 PM
  #10421  
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
 
Rear Admiral's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Adelaide, Sth Aust.
Posts: 47
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by niznai View Post
Basically the car becomes rear wheel drive in corners.
Only off the power. With a centre one-way, the car is 4wd under power, with the front keeping the diff action (unlike a with front one-way). Only the rear wheels operate under brakes - the front coasts. So, braking gives a rear-only handbrake effect - good for stepping the back out, but when you power down you get 4wd again, and the front wheels help to pull it around.

IMO, a centre one-way and a spool in the rear is the drift set-up.
Rear Admiral is offline  
Old 05-07-2009, 01:24 AM
  #10422  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,965
Default

Originally Posted by Rear Admiral View Post
Only off the power. With a centre one-way, the car is 4wd under power, with the front keeping the diff action (unlike a with front one-way).
That's very difficult to quantify. Theory says that as long as the rear wheels don't slip and they follow a tighter line than the front, then you're in 2WD mode with a center one-way. This is because the rear end of the car will travel a shorter distance, therefore if there is no slip in the diff or at the wheels, the angular speed of the rear diff pulley is going to be controlled by the center pulley (by the car's internal gear ratio).

At the front, the angular speed of the outdrives will be that of the wheels (again assuming no wheel or diff slip) which is going to translate in a faster angular speed at the front diff pulley than that imposed by the centre pulley, because the wheels have to travel further in the same amount of time, hence they spin faster, overtaking the angular speed of the centre pulley. The centre pulley driving the front diff being on a one-way bearing, it will allow the front then to spin faster than the motor dictates effectivelly meaning that the front wheels will just spin pushed by the car's trajectory.


True, it is not the same thing as with a front one way, in the sense that there is still diff action at the front, therefore the car will tend to oversteer rather than understeer (which it does with a front one-way on power) untill the rear catches up with the angular speed of the front. This however needs some slip to happen somewhere (either at the wheels or the diffs). More often than not it's the rear end stepping out a bit which brings the balance (the rear wheels end up travelling a longer distance than they normally would therefore reaching equal speed to the front). I think this is the first step to drifting.

You will notice I have mentioned a lot of conditions of non slip. As soon as any of these conditions are broken, it is difficult to ascertain what is happening. That's why I mentioned that everything I say is valid "in theory". Practice always finds a way to stump theory however.
niznai is offline  
Old 05-07-2009, 03:13 AM
  #10423  
Tech Regular
 
HI_808's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 359
Default

Originally Posted by niznai View Post
You will notice I have mentioned a lot of conditions of non slip. As soon as any of these conditions are broken, it is difficult to ascertain what is happening. That's why I mentioned that everything I say is valid "in theory". Practice always finds a way to stump theory however.
That is very difficult to conceptualize when you take it that tires are pretty much always operating under slip angles. But I do understand that you can apply power and not be driving the front wheels because the front wheels can freewheel at a pace faster than what the drive train is spinning at.
HI_808 is offline  
Old 05-07-2009, 03:23 AM
  #10424  
Tech Elite
 
niznai's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: All over the place
Posts: 2,965
Default

Very true. That's why I would take all this stuff only as theory (i.e. valid, but under very controlled circumstances, which is almost never the case in practice). Tuning cars with one-way diffs and/or centres is very much a hands-on exercise and greatly depends on understanding what is happening with the car whilst actually driving it (in real time that is).
niznai is offline  
Old 05-09-2009, 03:40 AM
  #10425  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
encore75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SnoHoCo, WA
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default layshaft c-clips

Anyone have any tips on how to remove the c-clips from the layshaft??? I need to replace the pulleys, but am having a tough time getting the c-clips off so I can change out the pulleys.

For once, I'm actually wishing there was an E-clip instead. hehe.
encore75 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.