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Old 01-07-2009, 08:17 AM   #10261
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I often see RC drivers lifting up one end of the chassis with a tool to check if both wheels lift off together... but mine doesnt. how do i rectify such a problem?
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:39 AM   #10262
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I often see RC drivers lifting up one end of the chassis with a tool to check if both wheels lift off together... but mine doesnt. how do i rectify such a problem?
there should be grub screws in the lower arms (often referred to as downstops) on either side of the diff bulkheads..

screw these further in to make the wheels lift off the ground sooner..
this is called having less droop
screw these out to make the wheels lift off the ground later..
this is called having more droop

the amount the chassis rises from rest before the wheels lift off can be measured and the figure referred to as droop (eg. 2mm droop on rear)

if they dont lift off evenly, adjust the downstops until the wheels come off at the same time.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:54 AM   #10263
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there should be grub screws in the lower arms (often referred to as downstops) on either side of the diff bulkheads..

screw these further in to make the wheels lift off the ground sooner..
this is called having less droop
screw these out to make the wheels lift off the ground later..
this is called having more droop

the amount the chassis rises from rest before the wheels lift off can be measured and the figure referred to as droop (eg. 2mm droop on rear)

if they dont lift off evenly, adjust the downstops until the wheels come off at the same time.
Assuming i'm raising my front.. and my front left lifts of first. and then my front right. by changine the setting on the grub screw wldnt it mess up the droop settings?
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:32 AM   #10264
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if the left and right wheels lift at different times, then your droop settings are not the same left and right..
so yes, it will mess up the current droop settings.. but it will fix the already mismatched droop settings you have
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:11 AM   #10265
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My rear wheel seems to have quite a bit of slop (freeplay toe in/out, camber changes), is it time to change the rear hub and/or bearings? Do the alloy ones help in this respect? I already have the bearing spacer.

Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:24 AM   #10266
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My rear wheel seems to have quite a bit of slop (freeplay toe in/out, camber changes), is it time to change the rear hub and/or bearings? Do the alloy ones help in this respect? I already have the bearing spacer.

Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?
Easy enuf. Start taking your suspension apart, piece by piece. Wiggle the suspension to check for that slop, each time before you take a piece off. When the slop stops, the problem's fixed. Buy replacements for all the parts that cam off while there was slop. Always use new hinge pins, ball cups, and spacers.

Time consuming, but easy and simple enough. After a while you will get the feel of the mechanics of your car and will know exactly what is wrong with it, even when youre driving it.
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:50 AM   #10267
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i recommend using the aramid belts from the getgo and keep the stock ones for back up!!
(at least thats what im doing)
Ive used my ta05 in stock for about 2 seasons now, (maybe more) and still on the original belts

Not had to replace much, they were more of an upgrade than a repair.

universal driveshafts, 2 pairs. (although the dog bones wear, they will still be OK)

Shocks (the plastic ones leak after a while, so i got a set of trf shocks from the day i built it)

and all 4 toe blocks replaced with the alloy blue ones (the pivot pin pops out on a HARD impact).

But if the Aramid belts work for you, then that's cool

If you're unlucky on a hard impact, you can bend the pivot pins, so watch out for that.
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:26 AM   #10268
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
My rear wheel seems to have quite a bit of slop (freeplay toe in/out, camber changes), is it time to change the rear hub and/or bearings? Do the alloy ones help in this respect? I already have the bearing spacer.

Also how often do you guys strip the car and clean the bearings?

I take apart the universals and clean and re-grease after EVERY race day. The carpet we have is new, so there is a lot of fuzz that builds up in the universal joint area.

Also re-oil all wheel bearings after every race day.
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:05 AM   #10269
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Well, I got my kit and an extra body all done. This is perhaps the best kit I've ever had from Tamiya - the tolerances are much tighter than the others I have/ had before. My kit's about as tight as a sport version of an AE RC10T.

So, here's my ride. I thought I'd share some pics with you all. Enjoy!
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc00435-.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc00437-.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc00431.jpg  
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:30 AM   #10270
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Default Balancing weight ??

How do you determine how much extra weight to add to the battery side of the car to balance it when running LiPo ??

Obviously you want to add as little as possible, but how exactly do you determine how much to add ??

Thanks
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:47 AM   #10271
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How do you determine how much extra weight to add to the battery side of the car to balance it when running LiPo ??

Obviously you want to add as little as possible, but how exactly do you determine how much to add ??

Thanks
The only way to do this by yourself is to get two digital scales that can measure grams. place the scales next to each other, and place your model on top of both, keeping it in the middle. I'd weigh it three times and use an average. Whatever the final difference is on the battery side, then that's what you need to add.

Not all Lipo manufacturers are the same, and two different 2 cell batteries dont necessarily weigh the same. I don't know how many cells youre using; 2 or 3, so I can't say "add 3.8 grams."

This is what we do for the AE RC8 and other mid engine/ motor layouts that have the RH side a little lighter.

Don't try and use one scale and hang one side up; the weight of the whole model will transfer to the scale, and you'll end up with the false info of weighing the same on both sides.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:53 AM   #10272
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Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
The only way to do this by yourself is to get two digital scales that can measure grams. place the scales next to each other, and place your model on top of both, keeping it in the middle. I'd weigh it three times and use an average. Whatever the final difference is on the battery side, then that's what you need to add.

Not all Lipo manufacturers are the same, and two different 2 cell batteries dont necessarily weigh the same. I don't know how many cells youre using; 2 or 3, so I can't say "add 3.8 grams."

This is what we do for the AE RC8 and other mid engine/ motor layouts that have the RH side a little lighter.

Don't try and use one scale and hang one side up; the weight of the whole model will transfer to the scale, and you'll end up with the false info of weighing the same on both sides.
When you say "place the scales next to each other" ... I'm assuming you mean to place the scales side-by-side and set the * chassis * on them centered between them (not the wheels) ??

I'm guessing you can't use wheel weights because they would be affected by spring preload of the shocks, etc ?

Thx
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Old 01-12-2009, 10:09 AM   #10273
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When you say "place the scales next to each other" ... I'm assuming you mean to place the scales side-by-side and set the * chassis * on them centered between them (not the wheels) ??

I'm guessing you can't use wheel weights because they would be affected by spring preload of the shocks, etc ?

Thx
Yep - that's correct as far as the placement of the scales and chassis goes. It doesn't matter if you weigh the sides of the car on its wheels or on the sides of the chassis. Weight is weight, and preload and springs don't affect it (they're not antigravity devices) and since theyre still attached to the car, its weight transfers right to the scale (directly or indirectly.) If you weigh it either way, you should get the same numbers on each respective side.

If you want to be super precise, and you balance and weigh your wheels, make sure that's done first. Otherwise, pop off fours and and check the L/R offset weight without them
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:48 AM   #10274
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I posted this question to the IFS thread, but I figured I'd post here also since that thread is less active.

I just ordered a TA05 IFS-R for an upcoming TCS Race at our local track. This will be my first TCS event, and I'm looking forward to it. I'm leaning toward GT2, but GT3 is a possibility.

Are there any parts that I should have on hand for possible breakage?

I would hate to have my day end early because I broke a part and didn't have a replacement.

If you know the part number that would be very helpful since I'm not really familiar with these parts.

Thanks
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:55 PM   #10275
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forewarning.... the following pics are bad.

anyhow.... so here is my question.
using the 3racing conversion chassis. i ordered front and rear stiffeners on ebay but i dont think i need them.
is that correct?

ive included pics of where i think they'd go but i dont think they are necessary.

or am i missing something?
thanks




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