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Old 12-13-2008, 06:23 PM   #10156
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Originally Posted by nexxus View Post
Simple mod just a bit of dremel work on the chassis to allow for the larger belt to clear without hitting anything.

Not a lot really needs to be taken off.
Which belts do you use?
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Old 12-13-2008, 07:54 PM   #10157
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Part # 54045
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:47 PM   #10158
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Need gearing for the ifs-r, I have tried searching and asking on IFS-R forum but no luck. It's for 17.5. Thanks. Alos carpet set up would be nice.
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:56 PM   #10159
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Need gearing for the ifs-r, I have tried searching and asking on IFS-R forum but no luck. It's for 17.5. Thanks. Alos carpet set up would be nice.
From those around me that have run 17.5T motors, gearing sits somewhere between 3.0 and 4.5 (depending on size of track).
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Old 12-15-2008, 05:41 PM   #10160
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well 3racing is not good with returning emails.
2nd request for floating layshaft directions sent today.

not sure if they are even getting my email request.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:02 PM   #10161
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I have a question on setting the tweak on the TA05-R --

When I put the car on scales, the front wheels are exactly the same weight -- but the rears are quite a bit different -- like 1.5 oz different.

If I adjust the spring collars to make the rears wheels the same weight Left and Right, then obviously I'm dialing in cross weight and now the fronts will be different weights Left vs. Right.

I've tried adding some lead to the rear corner that is light, but that doesn't really help -- it just makes both rear wheels heavier.

What am I missing ??

Thx.
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:15 PM   #10162
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Hi , need some advice on gearing a Sport Tuned.... Im running 104T Tamiya spur..... what pinion do I need ?? What FDR should I use??? What's this car IRatio???

Thanks
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Old 12-15-2008, 08:53 PM   #10163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench View Post
I have a question on setting the tweak on the TA05-R --

When I put the car on scales, the front wheels are exactly the same weight -- but the rears are quite a bit different -- like 1.5 oz different.

If I adjust the spring collars to make the rears wheels the same weight Left and Right, then obviously I'm dialing in cross weight and now the fronts will be different weights Left vs. Right.

I've tried adding some lead to the rear corner that is light, but that doesn't really help -- it just makes both rear wheels heavier.

What am I missing ??

Thx.
I have ran into this problem before the stock chassis can be shipped tweaked from the factory.My solution was running the carbon reinf chassis it is flat out of the package.Also check that all of your shocks are equal length and the sprins are seated.Hope this helps.
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Old 12-16-2008, 10:06 AM   #10164
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I have ran into this problem before the stock chassis can be shipped tweaked from the factory.My solution was running the carbon reinf chassis it is flat out of the package.Also check that all of your shocks are equal length and the sprins are seated.Hope this helps.
Ok... let me make sure I have this right -- to properly set up a TA05:

1) make sure shocks are all the same length
2) make sure springs are seated
3) if wheel weights are still different, throw chassis in the trash and get another one.

correct ? Is that the only solution ?

Thx.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:18 PM   #10165
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The carbon hop-up chassis can arrive just as tweaked as the glass ones. This is just the nature of injection molding... The only solution is to place the chassis in the oven with some wieghts over the lifted corner. This will help straighten it out. I don't know temps or how long, but I have been told this helps untweak new tub chassis...
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:53 PM   #10166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamGoodwrench View Post
I have a question on setting the tweak on the TA05-R --

When I put the car on scales, the front wheels are exactly the same weight -- but the rears are quite a bit different -- like 1.5 oz different.

If I adjust the spring collars to make the rears wheels the same weight Left and Right, then obviously I'm dialing in cross weight and now the fronts will be different weights Left vs. Right.

I've tried adding some lead to the rear corner that is light, but that doesn't really help -- it just makes both rear wheels heavier.

What am I missing ??

Thx.

I have attached a pic which represents the 4 wheels of a car (A, B, C, D).

From what it sounds you've been trying to add weight to the lighter corner on the rear end to balance out the weights left to right on the rear of the chassis, but this isnt helping. If your car were heavier on the rear left side of the car, you have been trying to add weight to the rear right side to balance it out, without success.

Instead of doing this, try add weight to the corner diagonally opposite the heavy wheel.

In the picture, if wheel "C" was heavier than wheel "D", I would add weight to wheel "B" which would have the effect of lightening the weight at "C" and adding to the weight at "D". In your situation, this could help to bring the rear wheels closer together in weight.

You can kind of chase the weights around the corners of the car doing this method, but in my experience its helped to get the weight more balanced on each wheel than it can get by just adding weight to the lightest wheel. I guess just need to consider the diagonally opposite wheel as having a lever type effect.

Also dont forget the opposite to what I have said. If you have a light corner on the car, try removing weight on the diagonally opposite corner.

-Mark
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Old 12-16-2008, 06:56 PM   #10167
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oops, here's the pic...
(nothing special, just a visual aid :P)
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-rcweight.gif  
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Old 12-17-2008, 10:19 AM   #10168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mok View Post
I have attached a pic which represents the 4 wheels of a car (A, B, C, D).

From what it sounds you've been trying to add weight to the lighter corner on the rear end to balance out the weights left to right on the rear of the chassis, but this isnt helping. If your car were heavier on the rear left side of the car, you have been trying to add weight to the rear right side to balance it out, without success.

Instead of doing this, try add weight to the corner diagonally opposite the heavy wheel.

In the picture, if wheel "C" was heavier than wheel "D", I would add weight to wheel "B" which would have the effect of lightening the weight at "C" and adding to the weight at "D". In your situation, this could help to bring the rear wheels closer together in weight.

You can kind of chase the weights around the corners of the car doing this method, but in my experience its helped to get the weight more balanced on each wheel than it can get by just adding weight to the lightest wheel. I guess just need to consider the diagonally opposite wheel as having a lever type effect.

Also dont forget the opposite to what I have said. If you have a light corner on the car, try removing weight on the diagonally opposite corner.

-Mark
Thanks for the reply !

I played with it some more last night and ended up getting the wheels close (within 0.1 oz) by doing these things:

1) made sure the shock lengths were exactly the same
2) added a strip of lead (1.5 oz) along the outside of the LiPo pack (I needed to add weight anyway to get to minimum legal for USVTA).
3) turned the shock collar on the RR shock down (this was the lighter wheel) approx. 1 or 2 mm. Note that now the shock collars on the LR and RR are not screwed down by the same amount.
4) turned the shock collar on the LF down about 1/2 turn -- this added more weight to the RR and now the rear wheels are very close in weight (within 0.1 oz) and the front wheels are within 0.3 oz of each other.

Before doing the above, the front wheels were exactly the same weight (left vs. right), but the rear wheels were over 1.5 oz. different -- the RR being the lightest.
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Old 12-17-2008, 11:05 AM   #10169
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Don't get too hung up on the shocks not being equal. On big cars they are never exactly the same for all the same reasons as the small cars.
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Old 12-17-2008, 02:41 PM   #10170
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carbon chassis is tweaked !
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