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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 12-07-2008, 09:21 AM
  #10096  
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Is yours a standard IFS? The problem in that case is the driveshafts - get the UJ's.
yea..i had similar problem before with my ta05, but after I shifted to ta05r I never experienced that. But before you get UJs try to lower ride height and stiffer shock because if the car bounces up and down too much, dog bone may come off, which I guess may cause this problem.
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:49 PM
  #10097  
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Will i get more grip on carpet surface if i switch my tires from the rubber slicks to some foam ones? I would imagine that my car would have more control and do a lot less drifting and sliding around the corners when i race.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedKills25 View Post
Will i get more grip on carpet surface if i switch my tires from the rubber slicks to some foam ones? I would imagine that my car would have more control and do a lot less drifting and sliding around the corners when i race.
Depends on the class you race. Could be TC foam or TC rubber, check the track you plan to race at for the classes they run.
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Old 12-07-2008, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedKills25 View Post
Will i get more grip on carpet surface if i switch my tires from the rubber slicks to some foam ones? I would imagine that my car would have more control and do a lot less drifting and sliding around the corners when i race.
I used to use rubber on carpet, I needed to use conditioner to gain grip, even so I lost grip after few laps because rubber cannot absorb the conditioner as well as foam. Basically using foam will give you better grip on carpet than using rubber. However you can still use rubber with conditioner, the grip may last longer if you wait longer after applying conditioner on the tires and I guess use tire warmer may help as well.
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:23 PM
  #10100  
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Originally Posted by SpeedKills25 View Post
Hey thanks a lot once again from all you guys with your helpful information. I think eventually i will have the car tweaked correctly for the track i plan on running on. One thing that i noticed tonite while tinkering with my car is that while having the trigger squeezed and the wheel turned all the way to either the right or left, i am getting an awful sound. Has anyone experienced this. The whole front steering unit along with the suspension arms vibrate quite violently. I hope to sort this problem out before i go to the track and embarass myself for the first time. Any suggestions guys? Thanks. A.J.
Dont forget to check your radio setup for EPA (end point adjustment). You maybe overextending the servo.
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:53 PM
  #10101  
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Handling-wise, the problem with the TA05 is that it rolls too much. You've got to find a way to overcome that problem to run high powered motors.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:21 AM
  #10102  
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Originally Posted by HI_808 View Post
Handling-wise, the problem with the TA05 is that it rolls too much. You've got to find a way to overcome that problem to run high powered motors.
I ended up putting a rubber o-ring on the inside of each damper body on the shaft and fabricated a 2mm carbon spacer that I put under the M3,M5 M5,M4 suspension mounts. The ride height is now down to about 6-6.5mm. Was able to test it out this weekend at the local track. I've been struggling with traction rolls, and times in the 9-10's for the track which the fast guy's are saying is respectable for even a seasond racer at this track. With the new adjustments I had no traction rolls and pinned my fastest lap at 8.88
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Old 12-08-2008, 02:27 PM
  #10103  
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For those of you looking to convert your TA05 into an IFS, chekout the new article on Tamiyausa.com: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=384
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Old 12-08-2008, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
For those of you looking to convert your TA05 into an IFS, chekout the new article on Tamiyausa.com: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=384
I love how option-2 is shown with another $150+ in parts above what they recommended. For the price of the hop-ups shown, you could buy an MSXX NIB ($239). Even the MRE-07 is being sold for only $310 on TamiyaUSA...
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Old 12-08-2008, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
I love how option-2 is shown with another $150+ in parts above what they recommended. For the price of the hop-ups shown, you could buy an MSXX NIB ($239). Even the MRE-07 is being sold for only $310 on TamiyaUSA...
It is just a reference picture to show the IFS hop ups sicne some people already have a well hopped up TA05 and want to just swap it to an IFS.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:28 PM
  #10106  
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Originally Posted by RielTime Racing View Post
I ended up putting a rubber o-ring on the inside of each damper body on the shaft and fabricated a 2mm carbon spacer that I put under the M3,M5 M5,M4 suspension mounts. The ride height is now down to about 6-6.5mm. Was able to test it out this weekend at the local track. I've been struggling with traction rolls, and times in the 9-10's for the track which the fast guy's are saying is respectable for even a seasond racer at this track. With the new adjustments I had no traction rolls and pinned my fastest lap at 8.88
Have you got the 1mm down spring retainers for your shocks.
My daughters car is a plastic tub with TRF suspension, I can set ride hieght down to 4mm if i wanted.
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Old 12-08-2008, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by waOscar View Post
Have you got the 1mm down spring retainers for your shocks.
My daughters car is a plastic tub with TRF suspension, I can set ride hieght down to 4mm if i wanted.
I have a TA05 IFSR with TRF shocks, and the 1mm down retainers, I can drop it to 4mm also

Check your droop screws, if they are too far down it may appear to limit how low u can go!
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Old 12-08-2008, 10:56 PM
  #10108  
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Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
not an ideal or cheap solution, but the v2 3racing chassis is open plan, with no bar to get in the way.
I would like to stick to the stock chassis. Is it OK to shim the protection bar to give the wires a little more clearance?
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:31 PM
  #10109  
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
I would like to stick to the stock chassis. Is it OK to shim the protection bar to give the wires a little more clearance?
If you're talking about the motor guard that attaches to the chassis either side of the motor and protects the endbell from impact, then I would say there is absolutely no reason you cant sim that out further (just use longer screws if you shim it out).

That being said, look at all the carbon chassis cars with no protection for the motor's endbell with the motor hanging over the side 10-15mm. If you really need the room, why not just remove the motor guard completely? I would see no isse with this.

-Mark
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Old 12-08-2008, 11:42 PM
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I thought the bar gives the chassis some rigidity as the bar and the mounting seem to be designed to couple to each other tightly?
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