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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 11-03-2008, 05:21 PM
  #9856  
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Its been my experience that manufacturers quoted FDRs are for large tracks, or at least much larger than what I race on normally.
An FDR of 4.5 at my local track would be slow and risk of overheating.
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:01 PM
  #9857  
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Originally Posted by spring71 View Post
Is anyone running Novak EX 13.5 motor on TA05R ?

Which FDR should I run with that motor ?

Can I run EX 13.5 motor on Stock class race ?
The spec says it's similar to stock 27turn motor.
The EX motors have a bonded rotor. I think most of the replies you've gotten, recommending FDRs like 4.5:1, are assuming a sintered rotor. With the bonded rotor I'd start around 5.8:1, run the car then temp the motor. Experiment but don't let the motor get too hot -- I think 150 is the limit for a bonded rotor.

If you want to go faster, upgrade to the sintered rotor. This requires a new endbell for the large bearing. Novak sells the two as a combo. Have fun,
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:26 PM
  #9858  
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Agreed with the differences in bonded/sintered motors.
I was running bonded on my local track with a 6.1:1 ratio for 13.5.
Others were running in the 5s with sintered.
Temp is best way to measure gear ratio for your track.. i would 90% of time make changes to gearing based on temp.
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:34 PM
  #9859  
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Just wanna learn more from other TA05 drivers here, what would be the first adjustments you do to your TA05 when... (assuming stock TA05R, outdoor asphalt on rubber, 13.5T)

1) you find your car's rear end loose
2) you have a little too much entry (off power) understeer
3) you have a little too much exit (on power) understeer

preference is not to purchase anything, thought available springs are red (soft) and the kit yellow (med).
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:41 PM
  #9860  
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what else can you tell us about the setup of your chassis?

are you running stabilisers?
which springs in the front and rear?
which pistons? 2 or 3 hole? and what weight oil?
have you changed roll centre or anything like that on the car?
camber? caster?

some ideas on the rest of the setup are going to help the most...

but personally i'd just lay your rear shocks down even further and make sure that the front of your car is generally stiffer than the rear.. the default toe out/in front and rear and camber settings are ok for this chassis. what about droop? try 5mm front and 3mm rear as a starting point.

make sure your car is weight balanced left/right and also around the centre of the chassis..
the TA05 seems to like this very much *nods*
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:43 PM
  #9861  
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
Just wanna learn more from other TA05 drivers here, what would be the first adjustments you do to your TA05 when... (assuming stock TA05R, outdoor asphalt on rubber, 13.5T)

1) you find your car's rear end loose
2) you have a little too much entry (off power) understeer
3) you have a little too much exit (on power) understeer

preference is not to purchase anything, thought available springs are red (soft) and the kit yellow (med).
Understeer everywhere? .. turn up your dual rate?
What condition are your tyre's in?
And what droop settings do you have?
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:56 PM
  #9862  
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some more thoughts...

1. rear end loose - lay down rear shocks more (try 2 holes lower on the top mount from the default settng)

2. understeer into corner, off power - not enough weight is transferring to the front wheels? try increasing the rear droop, allowing weight to transfer onto the wheels at the front so provide more grip and more responsive turn-in.

3. understeer corner exit, on power - too much weight is transferring off the front wheels when under power? this could mean less traction and less turning out of the corner. Try decreasing the front droop settings, which reduces the amount of weight that can transition to the rear of the car.

-Mark
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Old 11-05-2008, 09:56 PM
  #9863  
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Thanks. My TA05R is in stock condition and settings, except:
1) changed the rear springs to red (soft)
2) using centre (3) hole for all suspension bottom mounting
3) using centre (3) for upper camber links. front 2mm, rear no spacers, no outer spacers.
4) just a little toe out. (~1deg)
5) camber f/r at 2/1.5
6) tyres are few runs old sorex.

Mark, your thoughts make sense, will try them out next time. The stock rear dropp seems to be already max-ed out, i.e. loosening the screw does not seem to give more droop. I'm using the stock plastic damper top mounts. Will the stock suspension arms arm work? IIRC front is A/A, rear is A/D.
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Old 11-06-2008, 05:47 AM
  #9864  
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I used 2 deg rear camber (everything else is stock) and it fixed my loose rear end. it's now dialed
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Old 11-06-2008, 05:51 AM
  #9865  
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I thought the '05 came with 2deg outboard (hub end) of rear toe out the box?

I use the 2deg outboard, 1deg inboard on the rear giving 3 in total, coupled with a spool indoors it rotates the car well.
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:11 AM
  #9866  
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I'm also currently using the stock diff-diff setup, front slightly tighter than rear. Should I consider a spool, amongst the other changes to help my turning under power on asphalt?
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:15 AM
  #9867  
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i honestly think the spool will make your situation worse...
off power corner entry you're going to have to take wider entries and pulling out of the corner under power the spool will pull you wide
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:15 AM
  #9868  
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spool will give you more onpower steering.
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:49 AM
  #9869  
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Everyones different, diff, spool, one way all have different things going for them.

imho in short...

front diff, the safe option.
spool- better for coming out the corners, suits technical tracks.
one way- suited to flowing tracks, but less braking to hand.
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Old 11-06-2008, 09:50 PM
  #9870  
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Originally Posted by I12PonU View Post
spool will give you more onpower steering.
does that happen at the expense of off-power steering?
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