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Old 09-05-2008, 07:47 AM   #9631
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In other words, there is insignificant performance improvement from it?
not in my experience anyway, the differences wont be winning/losing races
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:05 AM   #9632
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Is the CF steering link significantly better than the stock one?
Significantly better...doubt it. I did the carbon link because it has bearings instead of the bushing. Then I replaced the bushings in the remaining plastic parts for bearings. Mine has very little slop and is super smooth.

My servo loves it.



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Old 09-05-2008, 08:17 AM   #9633
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In other words, there is insignificant performance improvement from it?
I have do disagree with that...the thing is that any setup works only with the driving style of the one it belongs to and on the track it has been developed on and under the very same conditions. What worked for me, then at these conditions is not sure to work for you, today, under your conditions...
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Old 09-06-2008, 06:34 AM   #9634
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
new option kit
Same as the old but with the shorter style arm
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Old 09-06-2008, 06:42 AM   #9635
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Same as the old but with the shorter style arm
What does the shorter arm achieve? The IFS-R is using this I think...
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Old 09-06-2008, 02:48 PM   #9636
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6.75 is a good ratio for a medium sized carpet track for a monster stock, so if you can keep the corner speed up, anywhere between 6.75 and 6.4 would be about right.

It all depends on how much speed you can carry through the corner- if you cant and the motor has to pull a large pinion to get back up to its top speed, combined with throttle jamming, it will cook the commutator and brushes very quickly...

Your best bet is to ask the A main what the run, then run a 1 to 2 teeth less to start with. if its too slow on the straight then add a tooth or two to the pinion size

hth
cool, thanks. they say around 6 is good for a monster stock, and that would mean I'm running at the same pace as the 6 year old who always seems to pwn me...

tested the ta05 outside for the first time today, the rain stopped for just long enough for the road to dry out. OMG the grip! doesn't seem to slow down through the corners at all. mind you, this is on the kit motor...

can't wait to get to the track
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Old 09-06-2008, 03:48 PM   #9637
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Originally Posted by The Bear View Post
I am very loosly thinking about trying the tamiya carpet car. I'm somewhat concerned with the mid-motor mount and the overall design being intended for rubber tire.

I'll be running 13.5 foam carpet on moderate to large tracks with medium to high bite.

wondering which setup sheets I should be reviewing and also wondering how much the car relies upon 'one off' techniques like shimed bulkheads or some other little nifty trick the drivers have come up with. Any 2.5 toe left, 2.1 toe right to offset mid motor or something equally as mystifying to me?

thanks for any responses
Haven't seen anyone respond to this yet.
Its been a while since I ran my ta-05 on carpet and even then it was stock if I remember correctly. I pretty much ran mine stock with the exception of a set of TRF shocks and the carbon tub. I wasn't using any tricks and it drove alright although the car was a bit heavy. Depending on the suspension setup you might have to shim out the front rims to clear the knuckles. If I wasn't concentrating on my foam 415 right now I would be sorley tempted to try it with mine again. As the foam tire class by me is 13.5/19t.
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Old 09-08-2008, 03:53 PM   #9638
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hey guys, anyone running the V2 3Racing chassis and find you can't run LiPo cells??
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Old 09-08-2008, 04:34 PM   #9639
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hey guys, anyone running the V2 3Racing chassis and find you can't run LiPo cells??
i tried. doesn't work. the mid pulley is a little too long.
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Old 09-08-2008, 04:56 PM   #9640
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is anyone making a saddle tray then, to allow the cells to sit a little further out?
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Old 09-08-2008, 05:29 PM   #9641
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I am running 5000 reedy pack with the 3racing v2 chassis
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Old 09-09-2008, 12:45 AM   #9642
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I am running 5000 reedy pack with the 3racing v2 chassis
I assume it is sitting off to the right by 6-8mm though?
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:41 AM   #9643
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Originally Posted by joe of loath View Post
cool, thanks. they say around 6 is good for a monster stock, and that would mean I'm running at the same pace as the 6 year old who always seems to pwn me...

tested the ta05 outside for the first time today, the rain stopped for just long enough for the road to dry out. OMG the grip! doesn't seem to slow down through the corners at all. mind you, this is on the kit motor...

can't wait to get to the track
No problem

Dont forget the standard spur and pinion gears are tamiyas own pitch, ideally you need a 48dp spur and a selection of pinions for it unless you intend to keep using tamiyas pitch... (they wear quickly so ive heard).

I use a 48dp 72t spur. So on that basis,

72/27 would give you 6.0

72/26 would give you 6.23

72/25 would give you 6.48

72/24 ditto 6.75

72/23 ditto 7.04

Just gives you something to think about

Ps, bin the kit tyres and get some proper tyres on. Premounted Sorex 24/28 are a good starting point usually. As you get up to speed, you might find the 2 degrees rear toe might not be enough to get the car through the corners quick enough with a 27t motor.

I run 3 degrees and it just helps the car a little more.

Keep the diffs at the correct tightness, with just amount of grease and they will last for ages
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Old 09-09-2008, 06:23 AM   #9644
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Default brushless motor sensored ESC

Hi guys, do you have recomendation ESC for brushless motor (sensored) this is my 1st time to attemp brushless motor but im used to play 19t motor (brushed)
Any input would be a good help.
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Old 09-09-2008, 06:31 AM   #9645
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Tekin RS or RS Pro, really small footprint and no fan.
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