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Old 08-28-2008, 08:58 AM   #9601
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Hi there just want to ask about ta-05 hop ups.
Is ther any difference between Tamiya and 3Racing "front one way"?
except for the price and brand name

Are all 3racing products fit perfectly in Tamiya Ta05?
eg. steering link, graphite front and rear shock tower and alum bulk head.

cheers!
The biggest difference that I've noticed is that the 3racing item will fail or break much sooner than the Tamiya. The 3racing steering knuckles are pure crap, you are much better off with the plastic for strength. The non-stressed parts like the bulkhead fare better.

Bottom line is that for the hard working parts like drivetrains and suspension stick with Tamiya. For the bling parts 3racing is just OK.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:01 AM   #9602
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The biggest difference that I've noticed is that the 3racing item will fail or break much sooner than the Tamiya. The 3racing steering knuckles are pure crap, you are much better off with the plastic for strength. The non-stressed parts like the bulkhead fare better.

Bottom line is that for the hard working parts like drivetrains and suspension stick with Tamiya. For the bling parts 3racing is just OK.
I have to agree with you on this one. I had a 3racing spool and it shattered into pieces taking part of the diff cover with it.
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Old 08-28-2008, 01:54 PM   #9603
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i dont know if im allowed to say this..........but 3racing in general is crap...
Square is the best..
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Old 08-28-2008, 02:22 PM   #9604
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Default my TA05r for sale on the boards

My TA05r is forsale in the sale area. 1 run on carpet only. basically new with a front oneway diff too and wide pitch pulleys f&r. 130 shipped.
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Old 08-29-2008, 06:23 AM   #9605
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Thanks guy for the straight forward answers, regarding the comaparisson between Tamiya and 3racing parts.

I have already ordered "3racing" Steering link and Front 1 way
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Old 08-29-2008, 05:54 PM   #9606
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You should be OK with the steering link but keep an eye on those bearings and outdrives.
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:48 AM   #9607
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I hope so it could be OK.
Now i'm waiting for my front 1way, but forgot to ask if i need to change also to center 1 way. Is there any good having on it (center 1way)?
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Old 08-30-2008, 01:55 AM   #9608
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Has anyone here raced the Ta05 athlete conversion by Tech Racing? I might be able to get one for a good price. It looks like it makes the car more like a trf415 with the motor being towards the back.
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Old 08-30-2008, 02:26 AM   #9609
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any of the square/tobee/3racing stuff that is alloy to replace the plastice kit items are junk for racing. The 3Racing toe-blocks are good, their chassis conversions are good, there steering/uprights etc, junk.... save your money and buy the Tamiya items.
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Old 08-31-2008, 12:45 AM   #9610
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Also steer clear of any pre assembled alloy shocks/driveshafts- if it goes pop or bang its unlikely seperate parts are available for a rebuild

on a seperate note, the athlete kit looks a little heavy, but very rigid, so it maybe useful for foam tyres on high bite tracks... I found a linky on it for anyone who's interested

http://www.redrc.net/2007/04/tech-ra...onversion-kit/

that said, the 3racing graphite/cf conversion kits are still heavy, but work well on foam and rubber tyres on high bite tracks. Low bite tracks though, forget it- the car doesnt have enough flex to generate it into grip and even with softer compound tyres it is a slouch.

It simply doesnt generate flex and therefore the car doesnt rotate enough in the twistys.
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Old 08-31-2008, 01:54 AM   #9611
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Angry

can anyone recommend replacement front steering arms. I lost one today, and note that I need to buy the metal parts bag b to replace one steering arm. Is there another company that marks a suitable arm, and if so, where can I get them.
any help is appreciated.
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Old 08-31-2008, 02:06 AM   #9612
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Just get a pair of 3x32mm turnbuckles and low friction adjusters (#53601).

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Old 08-31-2008, 02:26 AM   #9613
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thanks stocker...much appreciated. I learnt my lesson today, don't drink and rc drive.....car's tend to ignore the radio signal and go anywhere, and alias, parts tend to go astray.
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Old 08-31-2008, 11:58 AM   #9614
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It simply doesnt generate flex and therefore the car doesnt rotate enough in the twistys.
Can you go into this a bit more for me? Maybe this is a scaling difference between R/C and 1:1. In full-size race cars the aim is usually to make the chassis as stiff as possible so the suspension can do its work in a controlled, predictable manner. Chassis flex introduces an extremely complex variable into the equation that can't easily be controlled. Why wouldn't one want as stiff a chassis as possible in R/C and then tune the handling characteristics with the suspension?
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Old 09-01-2008, 03:49 AM   #9615
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Can you go into this a bit more for me? Maybe this is a scaling difference between R/C and 1:1. In full-size race cars the aim is usually to make the chassis as stiff as possible so the suspension can do its work in a controlled, predictable manner. Chassis flex introduces an extremely complex variable into the equation that can't easily be controlled. Why wouldn't one want as stiff a chassis as possible in R/C and then tune the handling characteristics with the suspension?
Dont quote me on all of this as I might be partially wrong lol, but...

1) yes 1/1 and 1/10 operate in different ways, partiallly because we use foam not air in our rubber tyres so the chassis works in a different way when it comes to flex. Foam tyres are solid, so as a result, the chassis ideally needs to be "solid" (ie less flex) This is the easiest way to remember chassis setup for foam.

2) rubber tyres and a low bite track prefer a thinner chassis. the twisting (or flex) of the thinner chassis and softer oil/springs actually help the car to generate more traction, and therefore rotate better in the twistys.

In short, yes you would think logic would go a long way to help understand the other, but in fact goes a long way from the truth! Dont confuse 1/1 and 1/10 setup, they are not similar in how they are set up.
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