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Old 06-16-2008, 04:02 AM   #9331
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Also, If you are using, or considering using foams indoors, use a stiffer spring.

Wider foams may require a 2mm shim on the wheel hex to make the inside of the wheel clear the top ball joint, which will in turn also increase the width to give a little more stability.

Avoid using tyres with a high "mechanical grip" such as minipins as the chances of grip roll will increase quite a lot with high power motors and cells.

hth
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:08 AM   #9332
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duplicate
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Last edited by tc3team; 06-16-2008 at 04:51 AM. Reason: double post ;)
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Old 06-16-2008, 06:19 AM   #9333
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Default Suspension

Hi,

I have a TA05, just wanted to ask what suspension blocks are good to use in conjunction with OP-428 hubs TA04 hard rear upright (are these 1 degrees?)

Seems most setups now are 3 degrees toe in rear using suspension blocks and 0 degree in the hubs, just trying to come close to this setup in a TA05.

I think I have the short suspension arms.

Many thanks in advance.

joel
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Old 06-16-2008, 06:50 AM   #9334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi,

I have a TA05, just wanted to ask what suspension blocks are good to use in conjunction with OP-428 hubs TA04 hard rear upright (are these 1 degrees?)

Seems most setups now are 3 degrees toe in rear using suspension blocks and 0 degree in the hubs, just trying to come close to this setup in a TA05.

I think I have the short suspension arms.

Many thanks in advance.

joel
Joel,

This might help you http://www.thard.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=30

Kevin
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Old 06-16-2008, 08:41 AM   #9335
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Each letter on the suspension blocks is a half a degree different from the next. 1B is one step wider than 1A.

BTW: The "X" series of blocks get narrower as the letters go along. 1X is the next step narrower than 1A...

This means that if you have 1B + 1XD, your getting 3* out of your blocks. If you have 1A + 1XD, your getting 2.5*. Don't forget to add or subtract these numbers from uprights as the TA05 does NOT use 0* uprights...
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Old 06-16-2008, 09:00 AM   #9336
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It is also worth noting that changing inboard (gearbox side of the wishbone) will give a different feeling than changing outboard (hub side of the wishbone) setting.

I use 1 degree inboard and 2 degree outboard rear toe, giving 3 degrees in total.

For me, combined with the right suspension,toe and spring/oil settings make the car turn in very sharply, as does using this combo with a spool....

Pulls the car out of corners well too
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Old 06-16-2008, 10:39 AM   #9337
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Default 17.5 Gearing

Has anyone had experience in gearing a 17.5 in the TAO5? Getting to the starting 3.5 FDR looks like it may be tough with the higher internal ratio of the car.

My track has mandated the use of the 17.5 for stock to align itself with the upcoming 2009 ROAR rule changes.

If anyone has a spur/pinion combo that they run on their car 48p or 64p with the 17.5 they would care to share that would be fantastic.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:06 AM   #9338
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I've run the 17.5 quite a bit and never actually made it down to the 3.5 Novak suggests. I usually ran a rollout off around 48-49mm...so with rubber tires...start around 98/54-55.
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:28 PM   #9339
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What size of a track are you running on, and how much room for gearing up/down does that combo give you?

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I've run the 17.5 quite a bit and never actually made it down to the 3.5 Novak suggests. I usually ran a rollout off around 48-49mm...so with rubber tires...start around 98/54-55.
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:46 PM   #9340
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That was for about 100 x 60...I could easily go to 56-57 tooth with the 98 spur. I used to use a 90t spur when I first started racing with brushless motors. I'm not sure of the exact maximum teeth (spur and pinion added together) but I think it's around 160 so. If your running on a large outdoor track..say 150 x 80, I'd go with maybe a 98/56-58 range. I'd gear it so that it doesn't get any hotter than maybe 150-155 outside. Indoors no hotter than 140.
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:51 PM   #9341
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That is good to know thanks for the info.
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:38 PM   #9342
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Default Suspension

Hi,

Thanks for the help, just a couple more...

1. Is there a 0 deg hub that can be used on the TA05 that is platic? Aluminum is too expensive.
2. What is the difference in length between standard arms and the long arms? Is it 1mm?
3. How about the lightweight reversible arms? Is it a long arm?
4. Is the TA04 hard rear hub 1 degrees instead of the standard 2deg?

Thanks again.

Joel
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:17 PM   #9343
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In the Standard 05 suspension there are only 1 and 2 degree rear hubs. But you can cancel the toe with the toe blocks.

As far as I know there are no different length arms for the standard suspenion. You can use the short arms designed for the TA04SS...but they are short as in wheelbase not car width.

There are varying lengths of arms for the lightweight suspension. I'm not sure exactly the difference but it's between 1-2mm per arm.

And yes, the hard rear hub on the standard suspenion is 1 degree.
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:33 PM   #9344
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Default wheel spacing shim

What is the best shim to use as a wheel spacer between the hex and wheel to widen the stance of the car? I know that some use 1mm shims but what is the OD/ID or part number people are useing?
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Old 06-16-2008, 11:51 PM   #9345
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Tamiya sells them in two different colors (red & blue). I don't know if they are the same thickness or not (I would bet they are the same). 53646 & 53647
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