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Old 04-17-2008, 01:29 AM   #9211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedzer View Post
Hi guys.

not too sure whether this been mentioned before.
im actually wanting to buy the aluminium suspension mount for my TA05.
some questions before my purchase.

1) do i need to buy the "415 front bridge" type for the belt to go through ? or the stanadard one will do just fine for all 4 mount.

2) how many degree is between 1A and 1B. i believe each alphabet in difference is 0.5degree ? correct me if im wrong.

3) what is the difference between 1A and 1XA ?

Thanks !
All your questions are answered here: http://www.thard.co.uk/excel.html
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Old 04-17-2008, 11:00 AM   #9212
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To answer Question #1, no, they won't work since they account for the belt to be straight down the middle.

I use the X/XA/XB/XC/XD blocks, and they come with 3mm spacers that let you flip the block upside down to span over the belts. I don't think the older A-D blocks can do that without modification..

The 416 parts line should provide similar blocks for the A-D range that can be flipped, noted by the new outlined lettering.
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Old 04-17-2008, 12:22 PM   #9213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedzer View Post
Hi guys.

not too sure whether this been mentioned before.
im actually wanting to buy the aluminium suspension mount for my TA05.
some questions before my purchase.

1) do i need to buy the "415 front bridge" type for the belt to go through ? or the stanadard one will do just fine for all 4 mount.

2) how many degree is between 1A and 1B. i believe each alphabet in difference is 0.5degree ? correct me if im wrong.

3) what is the difference between 1A and 1XA ?

Thanks !
1- You need the bridge mounts to clear the belts for both front & rear.

3- The "X" versions get narrower as you go through the alphabet...
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Old 04-17-2008, 07:11 PM   #9214
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See the Tamiya sticker on the side skirt? It looks like there might be a TA05-IFS Xanavi GTR body out sometime soon!

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Old 04-17-2008, 07:19 PM   #9215
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SWEET!
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:27 AM   #9216
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I'm looking to replace the useless 950 bearings on my LW suspension arms with the TRF416 kind which uses the same LW suspension arms, but uses 1050 bearings in the front knuckles and front uprights.

Is it a direct swap if I change the following?
51293 TA05-IFS/416 front C-hub
51332 TRF416 front knuckles
51333 TRF416 rear uprights
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:39 PM   #9217
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HEy Guys,
WHat gearing advice do you guys have for a short asphalt track with CO27? I have 100tooth spur
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Old 04-20-2008, 06:45 PM   #9218
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I run a 104 tooth spur and between a 29-31 tooth pinion. Novak XBR, CO27, Orion Platinum Lipo with CS27 tires under a DNA2.
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Old 04-22-2008, 11:17 AM   #9219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRiN View Post
I'm looking to replace the useless 950 bearings on my LW suspension arms with the TRF416 kind which uses the same LW suspension arms, but uses 1050 bearings in the front knuckles and front uprights.

Is it a direct swap if I change the following?
51293 TA05-IFS/416 front C-hub
51332 TRF416 front knuckles
51333 TRF416 rear uprights

It can work, but DON'T forget the wheel axles (TA-9804380).

Viktor
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:03 AM   #9220
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Default Setup Advice Needed

Hi guys,

I bought my TA05R about 2 months ago and i have been trying to set it up the way i want it. I tried quite a number of different changes but till now the car is still no where close to what i want. Basically i would like my car to drive like:

- Twitchy
- Needs to maintain speed through corners or else car will traction roll
- Rear that follows the front around corners

Am i asking for the impossible? I'm racing on asphalt using the same tires as everyone else. Somehow the front end of the car is always lacking in grip.

Can you guys point me in a direction on which changes will get me closer to this setup? Should i allow the car to roll more or less? Should the roll center be higher or lower?

By the way, i'm still running the plastic tub chassis. Does it actually help if i use the graphite tub chassis?

Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-23-2008, 07:50 AM   #9221
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What motor and gearing combo are you running?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kelvar View Post
Hi guys,

I bought my TA05R about 2 months ago and i have been trying to set it up the way i want it. I tried quite a number of different changes but till now the car is still no where close to what i want. Basically i would like my car to drive like:

- Twitchy
- Needs to maintain speed through corners or else car will traction roll
- Rear that follows the front around corners

Am i asking for the impossible? I'm racing on asphalt using the same tires as everyone else. Somehow the front end of the car is always lacking in grip.

Can you guys point me in a direction on which changes will get me closer to this setup? Should i allow the car to roll more or less? Should the roll center be higher or lower?

By the way, i'm still running the plastic tub chassis. Does it actually help if i use the graphite tub chassis?

Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:03 AM   #9222
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Kelvar- A softer oil and spring on the rear should help get more initial turn in, a light anti roll bar may also help keep the turn in flowing through the exit of the corner too.

From memory, the ta05r comes with a very similar if not identical spring for both rear and front shocks, this can give a vague feeling. An extra degree of rear toe in may also help the back end pivot the front end quicker through the infield too
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:21 AM   #9223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myan_gsr View Post
What motor and gearing combo are you running?
I'm running a 10.5r with 105/45.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tc3team View Post
Kelvar- A softer oil and spring on the rear should help get more initial turn in, a light anti roll bar may also help keep the turn in flowing through the exit of the corner too.

From memory, the ta05r comes with a very similar if not identical spring for both rear and front shocks, this can give a vague feeling. An extra degree of rear toe in may also help the back end pivot the front end quicker through the infield too
I'm using 35wt oil and yellow springs all round now. I don't know if my understanding is wrong but wouldn't a softer rear cause more weight transfer to the rear and cause the front to loss more grip?
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Old 04-23-2008, 08:58 AM   #9224
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Kelvar, providing the front end suspension isnt rock hard, the softer sprung rear suspension should help the car turn in (providing the tyres are up to it).

Because you have even suspension settings, its not allowing the front or rear of the car to react differently than the other, hence the neutral handling...

Might be an idea to look at your droop / roll centre too

If for example you try a red tamiya spring on the rear of the car, you should see the difference straight away. The only "problem" is to prevent the car from scrubbing its speed off through the corners by allowing it to "dive" or work more with the weight transfer, hence the suggestion to look at the droop/roll centre too

Obviously, it depends too on how you prefer the car to feel in the infield Try it in some practice time and you'll soon see what happens with a softer rear spring
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Last edited by tc3team; 04-23-2008 at 09:01 AM. Reason: last 2 paragraphs...
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:20 AM   #9225
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I will try the softer red spring over the weekend. Meanwhile, will the stiffer composite chassis make a difference in this situation? Also, should i try to lower or raise the roll center?
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