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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 02-22-2008, 11:46 AM
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Set the ride height, then set the "rebound stroke" by measuring the additional height it takes to lift the chassis. Tamiya has a spiffy ride height gauge that works awesome for doing this...it has a little handle on the end and it's really wide.
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:05 PM
  #8942  
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my car is 1.593 grams in "ready to run" (without transponder)....is it overweight for a Ta 05 chassis?? is use aluminium blue screw and ti screw in my ta05.one way @ front and mid pulley, carbon molded parts, carbon fiber shock tower, standard arm and knuckles, alum swing shaft.
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:14 PM
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That weight sounds about right for a TA-05. At my track, there is a minimum weight of 1525g, so I have to add a whole strip of weight onto my Lipo to bring it up to specs. I have a few carbon fiber components, all molded carbon parts, and a few Dremeled areas.

I have been searching for a remedy to drivetrain lubricants that are not oily and attract debris. Most RCs today suggest using grease as a lubricant for CVDs, Universals and dogbones, but they attract and hold dirt/grime/carpet fibers onto the metal and cause premature wear. I have recently tried using powdered graphite as a lubricant and I must say it works rather well. I went to my local hardware store and found AGS Powdered Graphite Lubricant, mainly used for freeing up locks and hinges around the house. I completely clean my drivetrain parts, dry them with compressed air, and powder them with the graphite dust. Work it around the part and shake off excess. There is enough residual dust on there to keep things moving freely. Next time all you have to do it squeeze some more powder on the part and you are ready to go!
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by t4m1y4niac View Post
my car is 1.593 grams in "ready to run" (without transponder)....is it overweight for a Ta 05 chassis?? is use aluminium blue screw and ti screw in my ta05.one way @ front and mid pulley, carbon molded parts, carbon fiber shock tower, standard arm and knuckles, alum swing shaft.
Thats exactly what my car weighed at Trackside for GT2 with a Novak brushless setup. I was running the IFS setup with the old style suspension, dual diffs and a solid center shaft. I run the graphite parts except for the tub. I am running Stainless steel for most of the hardware. I have quite a bit of weight on the battery side to balance out against the brushless system as I am running an Orion 4800 Lipo. I could spend more money on light weight screws, but I like having some cushion in case there is a variance in the scales at the tech table.
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:20 PM
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at my track 1525 gr is the minimum weight too...and a really want to make my car justt near that value.... 1.593 plus 25 g of tansponder is really make my car a "fat naughty boy"....
which area of the chassis that you dremmeled?
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:23 PM
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front and rear 'chassis braces', front and rear belt guards, front and rear diff covers where no screws are used.
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by macnkitty2002 View Post
That weight sounds about right for a TA-05. At my track, there is a minimum weight of 1525g, so I have to add a whole strip of weight onto my Lipo to bring it up to specs. I have a few carbon fiber components, all molded carbon parts, and a few Dremeled areas.

I have been searching for a remedy to drivetrain lubricants that are not oily and attract debris. Most RCs today suggest using grease as a lubricant for CVDs, Universals and dogbones, but they attract and hold dirt/grime/carpet fibers onto the metal and cause premature wear. I have recently tried using powdered graphite as a lubricant and I must say it works rather well. I went to my local hardware store and found AGS Powdered Graphite Lubricant, mainly used for freeing up locks and hinges around the house. I completely clean my drivetrain parts, dry them with compressed air, and powder them with the graphite dust. Work it around the part and shake off excess. There is enough residual dust on there to keep things moving freely. Next time all you have to do it squeeze some more powder on the part and you are ready to go!
For the universals I use motorcycle chain wax. It sprays on wet, then dries to a waxy consistency, but it is not as heavy as grease, and actually repels dirt and grime. If the graphite works for you thats great, but I would think that there isnt much there to fight the heat generated by friction. Additionally I believe that graphite tends to be on the abrasive side, so you may find yourself wearing the universals prematurely, or having excessive slpo in the parts
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Old 02-23-2008, 08:27 PM
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That's interesting, my TA05-IFS was so underweight that I needed to add one and a half strips of Pine Car weights just to hit the 1550 minimum using a Novak BL, Spektrum Micro, JR Z590m and Trinity Li-Pro. Same chassis set-up but with a Protoform Mazda body and no weight comes in at 1475g.
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:12 PM
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When I switched to LiPo and Brushless my ta05 was at 1455gm, I then added 60 grams and am now up to approx. 1520. I gotta add 30 grams to the batt side for the TCS gt2 1,550 gram minimum. Even with the motor side heavy, it handles great!
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Old 02-25-2008, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by daveaustin5 View Post
That is a sweet looking ride! How does the 3racing chassis handle? What's the build quality like? I'm thinking of getting a ta05r and sticking that chassis on it.

FAO anyone who's purchased a ta05r from rc-champ; how much did you pay for it? I e-mailed them a couple of days ago but they haven't got back to me. Do rc-champ stock 3racing products?
www.rcmadness.com has them
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Old 02-26-2008, 01:23 AM
  #8951  
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if dremeled those parts how much weight i can save??? (maybe i will execute the dremeleing thing tonight )
in electronics i use futaba Fasst Rx, Futaba Servo 9451 (i plan to put my 9550 on it), Novak GTX, Yokomo MST motor and using IB 4600 pack.
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:59 AM
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Questions?? Help out an FNG..

I'm an FNG to the TAO5R and would like to know what "spare" items I should keep in my bag. My lhs doesn't carry Tamiya parts so any suggestions would be appreciated. I hate getting through one race and being done for the day!
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:15 AM
  #8953  
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Originally Posted by Chinewbie View Post
I'm an FNG to the TAO5R and would like to know what "spare" items I should keep in my bag. My lhs doesn't carry Tamiya parts so any suggestions would be appreciated. I hate getting through one race and being done for the day!
I'll make out a list for you but right off the top of my head I would recommend:

Check with me to see if the new Type R uses the Lightweight Reversable suspension as does the IFS. The list below is from the on-line manual.

51103 C parts Front Uprights (steering Knuckles) 2 sets
51107 F parts C-Hub holders
51105 E parts Rear Uprights, 2 sets
51104 D parts set of arms
3x8mm button head screws, I replaced all the screws with Tony's Screws.
top and bottom flanged sleeves for the steering when you break a C-Hub.
e clips
0114096 shock towers
That's really about it.

Last edited by AreCee; 02-26-2008 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:34 AM
  #8954  
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Don't forget these:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=461&id=5488

That's the only thing I've ever damaged. They're fairly long, so they bend pretty easily. Never broken an arm or any other plastic part, just bent pins a couple times.
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Old 02-27-2008, 07:18 AM
  #8955  
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I have a TA05R and I have never broke a shock tower on this car they are pretty durable.

The most common parts that break are:
  • suspension arms
  • C-hubs
  • Front Upright

I have never broke a rear upright that would be kind of hard.
Hope this helps!
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