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Old 01-25-2008, 05:53 AM   #8836
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I'm gonna ask the stupid question...can you buy replacement lightweight arms and can I get the part #? All I can find is the kit (complete LW arms kit)

Paul
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:08 AM   #8837
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I'm gonna ask the stupid question...can you buy replacement lightweight arms and can I get the part #? All I can find is the kit (complete LW arms kit)

Paul
Long arms part #51104
Short arms part #53928

HTH
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:11 AM   #8838
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I'm gonna ask the stupid question...can you buy replacement lightweight arms and can I get the part #? All I can find is the kit (complete LW arms kit)

Paul
Herc, it's 51104.
And check this link http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/pl/53899.pdf
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Old 01-25-2008, 09:10 AM   #8839
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what is the advantage other than weight to the ta-05 light weight suspension? and how much weight does it save? finally does it comprise on any thing like strength?

thanks for the help
In addition, suspension arms are unsprung parts and more unsprung weight means less handling.. So LW suspension also serves for decreasing unsprung mass.. ( unsprung mass: mass which is not carried by shock absorbers)

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Old 01-30-2008, 02:25 AM   #8840
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what is the width of the version 2 3racing cf chassis for the ta05? and can i have i some pics please. As my version 1 got well aquanted with a pole

thanx guys
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:53 AM   #8841
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In addition, suspension arms are unsprung parts and more unsprung weight means less handling.. So LW suspension also serves for decreasing unsprung mass.. ( unsprung mass: mass which is not carried by shock absorbers)

Asil
Lightweight suspension parts are a little more brittle though, and break more easily. Still pretty durable though, but my right rear arm could not stand up to a full throttle impact with a concrete curb with a 19t. Surprised I didn't bend the suspension shaft.
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:05 AM   #8842
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I recently switched to 26mm +3mm practice wheels/tires from 24mm +0mm takeoff's on my TA05R. Because of the larger wheel & offset, I noticed the front wheels are a little too far forward in the fender cutouts causing mild rubbing. I would like to know the handling effects of moving the front wheels/control-arms rearward by swapping the spacers around on the inner-hinge-pins?

I am novice, so doubt I will be able to tell the difference when driving, but I would like to know what I should be looking out for...
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:15 AM   #8843
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I recently switched to 26mm +3mm practice wheels/tires from 24mm +0mm takeoff's on my TA05R. Because of the larger wheel & offset, I noticed the front wheels are a little too far forward in the fender cutouts causing mild rubbing. I would like to know the handling effects of moving the front wheels/control-arms rearward by swapping the spacers around on the inner-hinge-pins?

I am novice, so doubt I will be able to tell the difference when driving, but I would like to know what I should be looking out for...
We were just talking about that on our local forum:

http://thehobbyshoponline.com/Forums...s/Default.aspx

Rear: arms moved towards rear increases rear traction.

Front: arms moved towards rear increases front traction.

For the loosest car: Rear arms forward, Front arms backward.

For the tightest car: Rear arms backward, Front arms forward.
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Old 01-30-2008, 01:21 PM   #8844
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Okay, so moving my front arms rearward decreases wheelbase, and should make it a little looser. This is good to know, and makes perfect sense.

Now can anybody tell me the effects of switching to a 26mm tire with a +3mm offset? I understand the gearing change and track-width being 6mm wider, but how does that effect handling?

Thanks again for any insight...
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Old 01-30-2008, 04:57 PM   #8845
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24mm's could give you better or worse handling. There is less of a contact patch so your traction may suffer, but you should get more precise and faster steering action since your car has to do less work to turn the tire.
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:47 PM   #8846
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Hi guys.

Im not too sure this had been talk about in this forum.

Is there any other steering turn bucket that could allows more steering angle on TA05 ? like those from DF03 or TRF501x.

because i beileve TA05 c-hub and steering bucket had limited the angle of the steering.



thanks in advance !
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:23 AM   #8847
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I just fitted the new 3Racing chassis conversion to my TA05 and in about 6mm and the whole thing is narrower. The chassis is a little thinner too. Will post some pics soon and hope to run it this weekend.
pics yet
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:50 AM   #8848
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Hi guys.

Im not too sure this had been talk about in this forum.

Is there any other steering turn bucket that could allows more steering angle on TA05 ? like those from DF03 or TRF501x.

because i beileve TA05 c-hub and steering bucket had limited the angle of the steering.



thanks in advance !
With the standard TA05 setup, steering is limited by the balls on the cross-link hitting the bell-cranks. It would be possible to flip the bell-cranks upside down, and install the cross link on top. Provided this still allows everything to clear the upper chassis brace, I think it would work fine. This is actually how Penguin recommends you install the steering system with their chassis.

Now if your trying this flip in combination with the TA05 carbon hop-up cross-link, things get a little more complicated. Because the balls are now installed via screws through the link, the screw heads hitting the bell-cranks become your limiting factor. It should be possible to countersink the holes in the carbon cross-link and use countersunk screws to fix this. All you need is C-sunk screws of the same length as the standard pan-head screws, and you should be good (provided your handy with a Dremel).

PS: Make sure to wear a breathing mask when working with carbon fiber. Carbon dust is really nasty stuff when it gets in your lungs...
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:23 PM   #8849
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If you are considering modifying the steering simply to get more lock as your car is understeering then you must have a really ill handling car, as if anything usually on a ta05 you are dialling out oversteer. if it's not for that reason then just ignore me....
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:15 PM   #8850
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It's funny you mention that. Penguin recommends you flip the cross-link around to point rearward to increase ackerman. This in turn brings the ball-studs even closer, further reducing steering lock. Of course this only happens when using the carbon cross-links as the screw heads sticking up. I seriously doubt they considered this particular hop-up in their instructions. I may have to countersink the ball-stud holes just to get my lock back...

This only applies if your flip the cross link backwards and upside-down. My previous post only details flipping it upside-down...
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