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Old 01-18-2008, 12:23 PM   #8821
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You mean after I gave you my setup your car is good.. LOL
Come on...you know I am the "DRIVE" behind your testing, right..? I am like your boss bitching to you day and night about the latest setting....

Now...where is the insert with Type A report..? Have you finsihed that yet..? Its been 2 weeks already....I need that report 1st thing monday morning. Chop chop....

Your diff melt cause you were using illegal upgrade BLING parts on the diff......or I can say, diff that is TOO SMOOTH (yes, that is the smoothest diff that I have ever touched) is going to be a SPOOL in 3 minutes. (I still think it is a "tough luck" case...rebuild 1 more and give that a try. My car is identical to yours except 1/2 sec slower per lap because I barely know how to drive...still, rough diff, but not melted or locked..)

Remember, I ran 12 packs that sunday on the R, mroe then 1/2 of those runs are LIPO that ran more then 8 minutes...
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:04 AM   #8822
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I was going through a box of old rc gear from the mid 80's and came across a couple of tamiya rx-540vz techingold motors....would be at least 20 years old. Have given them a clean, and have been giving them a run in the TA05with a Spur 70 Pinion 25 rolloyt 31.91...it goes great, didn't realise how good a motor they are, but I have 2 questions

1. what would be a good starting point for rollout for the TA05 with rubbers and a free flowing track.
2. any idea's where I might be able to buy replacement brushes for them.

any information would be appreciated.
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:47 AM   #8823
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I was going through a box of old rc gear from the mid 80's and came across a couple of tamiya rx-540vz techingold motors....would be at least 20 years old. Have given them a clean, and have been giving them a run in the TA05with a Spur 70 Pinion 25 rolloyt 31.91...it goes great, didn't realise how good a motor they are, but I have 2 questions

1. what would be a good starting point for rollout for the TA05 with rubbers and a free flowing track.
2. any idea's where I might be able to buy replacement brushes for them.

any information would be appreciated.
I still have the DYNO TECH one...black version.

Try ebay for the brushes, and expect "SKY" price from Japan.

I think they are kinda like 23T and a tad faster. May be 6.5-7 FR? Not 100% sure....if you are running with rubber tires, you don't need to know the rollout. Only Final Drive.
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:26 PM   #8824
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thanks solara
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:28 PM   #8825
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Hi guys,
Just wondering what droop should i be running? I have an associated droop guage. I run on and outdoor- medium grip- tight- bumpy track with a 13.5 brushless system. Is this one of the things that i should ask around the track? More droop is when the arms extend lower right?
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:57 PM   #8826
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You are correct - More droop equals more downwards suspension arm travel.

I'm not a fan of the droop guage. It cant account for variences between tire/wheel manufacturers. Sometimes the axle height can change .5mm different between certain brands. That doesnt sound like much, but when determining droop, sometimes 1mm can make big difference.

First I install my set up and the tires on that I'm going to use and set my ride height. Then I measure the height of the axles while on a flat surface with a digital guage. (if all 4 of the tires/wheels are the same it will almost allways be the same on all 4 wheels).

If your ride hight is 5mm, install 5mm shims underneath your car (preferably all 4 corners) and remove the wheels. This is when I measure and adjust the downward travel. If the axle hieght with the wheel on was 24mm and the axle drops to 22mm after the wheel was removed, the droop is 2mm.

I prefer to start with 2mm downtravel on the front and 1mm on the back and then test drive and adjust from there.

It sounds like a headache, but its not that complicated or difficult or time consuming. Since I've started doing it that way, I havent used my droop guage since. There are other ways (probably better) to do it but unless you have a set up board that will get you close.

Remember, if you change your ride height or tires you shoud re-check your droop.

Last edited by Ed237; 01-21-2008 at 09:01 PM.
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:32 PM   #8827
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Default Motor Temp

Hey guys

What should be the noral operation temp of the motor if you running a 27 stock or 19t, indoors and out. Providing that u have the proper gearing. (ball park figure) Just got a raytek to be on the safeside.

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2008, 08:13 PM   #8828
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between 100f and 160f is my range.
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:05 AM   #8829
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Thanks for that ED237, I will give it a go at the track and see what happens.

Cheers
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:27 AM   #8830
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No proplem. I hope you see a difference.

I should also add that adding droop (more downtravel) to the front will allow more weight transfer to the back and help increase on power traction to the rear.

And conversly, if you add droop to the back it will help increase weight transfer to the front and improve traction at the front wheels mostly while braking.
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:09 PM   #8831
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Originally Posted by aussierevo View Post
2. any idea's where I might be able to buy replacement brushes for them.

any information would be appreciated.
The part number for the Technigold brushes is 50312. They can be found all day long on eBay stores for about $20 + shipping from the UK. You can find better prices in regular eBay, but it's not as common. If your hard-up for cheaper brushes, you can also fit Tamiya's 50226 Technipower brushes. Just keep in mind you will lose performance...

The Technigold's most amazing feature is it's peak efficiency rating of 81%...
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Old 01-24-2008, 07:55 PM   #8832
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what is the advantage other than weight to the ta-05 light weight suspension? and how much weight does it save? finally does it comprise on any thing like strength?

thanks for the help
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:01 PM   #8833
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what is the advantage other than weight to the ta-05 light weight suspension? and how much weight does it save? finally does it comprise on any thing like strength?

thanks for the help
The lightweight suspension definitely isn't as strong as the standard.
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:13 PM   #8834
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does the good out weigh the bad? or does the bad out weight the good?
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:25 PM   #8835
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Default Lightweight Suspension

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drifting101 View Post
does the good out weigh the bad? or does the bad out weight the good?
If we are talking about Tamiya 53899.

The advantages are:
Lighter weight
Less slop
A total of 5 shock mount points.
2 deg and 4 deg castor hubs.

I don't generally like to disagree, but I do not think it is structurally weaker.
The parts are blended with carbon fibres, which i believes strengthens and lightens.

The disadvantages:
You have to buy different swing shafts as it requires a different length shaft.

Overall I say it's worth it, for the tuneability.

Cheers

Kevin
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