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Old 11-08-2007, 05:27 PM   #8506
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Does the TA05R come with hex screws? or the phillips head ones?
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Old 11-08-2007, 05:33 PM   #8507
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Does the TA05R come with hex screws? or the phillips head ones?
unfortunately, phillips heads.
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Old 11-08-2007, 07:12 PM   #8508
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Yeah phillips ugh. I really like my RDX's torx screws. I work for Volvo and am quite used to the "torx"
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:18 PM   #8509
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Oh damm, Does anyone know where i can get a Blue alloy hex screw kit for the R and what brand.
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:53 PM   #8510
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Oh damm, Does anyone know where i can get a Blue alloy hex screw kit for the R and what brand.
Tamiya and Square has one but you have to buy them seperately try sending an e-mail with Champ RC they might have the complete blue alloy hex screw for your TA-05
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Old 11-09-2007, 05:12 AM   #8511
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Alloy screws are nice (and can add to the blue bling), but dont use them for high stress areas, snap the head off a gearbox top for example and youre not belted... youre shafted!

Imho stick with titanium if you can find them.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:04 PM   #8512
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Is a front one-way and a center one way good hop ups for the TAO5R? Should they be one of the first hop-ups i should look at?
Dear Fast XXXS,

This is my first race season with TA-05 here in the hungarian club race. I have a friend and he said me that I have to go with front- and center one-ways. The 1st race was very hard with one-way pulleys, but after the 3rd I am getting used to them, and now I say the pulleys in the 17T, 23T, 27T classes are much better than diff-diff. But it's heavily depends on the type of the track and the tracktion. If there are some narrow curve on the track, the pulleys are much better. Don't forget that with one-way pulleys u can't brake, so that needs some expereince, but after a few race -I am sure- u will get used to it.

Good luck
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:07 PM   #8513
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Does the TA05R come with the blue diff outdrive rings? If so, they will stop the outdrives from stretching (common after time on hard acceleration with fast motors). Im not saying that with the outdrive rings it will stop them from breaking prematurely, but they would help.

I think your best bet is metal outdrives for anything very fast (esp. a 3,5 )
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Old 11-10-2007, 01:06 AM   #8514
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tc3team- Yeh i have some titanium ones lying around so i will look for were i can put them, when i get my car, should have it in the next few days, i got it with lots of goodies.

bviktor- Thankyou for that, i will give them a go, I ran a center oneway with my JRXS and got used to that pretty good.

Also i just found this on the Tamiya Website-

Notice When Using TA05-R
A running R/C car constantly charges and discharges static electricity caused by friction from pulley and belts/gears, etc.

The amount of static electricity that is built up changes according to conditions such as temperature, humidity, driving environment, part material, and chassis layout. Some R/C cars may experience mechanical trouble or out-of-control driving due to sudden discharge of static electricity.

We have discovered that the component layout of the TA05-R Chassis Kit (ITEM 49418) makes it relatively vulnerable to the scenario described above, if used with a metal-geared servo under certain conditions.

As a preventive measure, use of the TA05 Lightweight Carbon Lower Deck (ITEM 53893) is recommended. This carbon and fiberglass deck effectively dissipates static electricity generated during R/C car operation.

Has anyone had troubles with any of the electronics stuffing up?
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:08 AM   #8515
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Originally Posted by Fast XXXS View Post
tc3team- Yeh i have some titanium ones lying around so i will look for were i can put them, when i get my car, should have it in the next few days, i got it with lots of goodies.

bviktor- Thankyou for that, i will give them a go, I ran a center oneway with my JRXS and got used to that pretty good.

Also i just found this on the Tamiya Website-

Notice When Using TA05-R
A running R/C car constantly charges and discharges static electricity caused by friction from pulley and belts/gears, etc.

The amount of static electricity that is built up changes according to conditions such as temperature, humidity, driving environment, part material, and chassis layout. Some R/C cars may experience mechanical trouble or out-of-control driving due to sudden discharge of static electricity.

We have discovered that the component layout of the TA05-R Chassis Kit (ITEM 49418) makes it relatively vulnerable to the scenario described above, if used with a metal-geared servo under certain conditions.

As a preventive measure, use of the TA05 Lightweight Carbon Lower Deck (ITEM 53893) is recommended. This carbon and fiberglass deck effectively dissipates static electricity generated during R/C car operation.

Has anyone had troubles with any of the electronics stuffing up?
Im not saying other alloy screw sets are just as bad, but I had a blue alloy one on my tc3, and the tops of some of the gearbox cover screw heads just sheared clean off, leaving my transmission totally sealed LOL. I learnt my lesson not to do it again, just for the sake of a few grams.

Some people I think have had/claimed to have had static issues with their chassis, but ive not had any that im aware of on my 3racing chassis. Just make sure the heatshrink is good on your cells, as that might be a possible cause? I am only guessing though
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Old 11-10-2007, 04:42 AM   #8516
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There have been some issues reported on this board with static discharge affecting the servo. I experienced it myself.

Basically, what is happening is that the plastic chassis on the R for some reason builds up static on it as the car runs. I think it is from the belt slapping on the anodised alloy motor heatsink plate.

This static has no easy route to ground, so will tend to discharge THROUGH a metal geared servo and down through the steering mechanism and the tyres.

By fitting a static strap (originally proposed by KO and you will see others mentioned in this thread) or by fitting a carbon chassis (eithet the Tamiya moulded one or an aftermarket one, these conduct electricity) the risk will be solved.

I also think that once the alloy top plate has been "polished" through use and belt slap (look at a well used TA05R, you will see that the plate is worn under the belt), the static will stop being generated too.
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Old 11-10-2007, 06:57 PM   #8517
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tc3team- Yeh i know were your comming from, that would have been a pain to fix.

Oh i understand now about the static, has it had any effect with speed controllers and receivers or is it just metal geared servo's, as i dont want to blow my GTB. Could you run say a piece of wire from the chassis just above the ground and when it chassis rolls the wire touches the ground a discharges?
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:43 AM   #8518
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Quote:
Has anyone had troubles with any of the electronics stuffing up?
My stock 05R chassis killed my metal geared servo a few weeks after I built the kit. I used the jump wire on the KO site and the problem was solved, but it still looked ghetto. I purchased the CF chassis (Tamiya tub) and problem solved. The static is particularly bad with rubber tires on carpet.

Quote:
Could you run say a piece of wire from the chassis just above the ground and when it chassis rolls the wire touches the ground a discharges?
I tried that with the stock chassis, and it does not work at all.
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:14 PM   #8519
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Ok thanks for that, im just running a standard servo atm. I will see if i encounter any problems, if so i will just buy a carbon chassis.
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:32 PM   #8520
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Ok thanks for that, im just running a standard servo atm. I will see if i encounter any problems, if so i will just buy a carbon chassis.
I think you can just replace the aluminum center plate with the carbon one to solve the static build up problem if you don't want to replace the whole chassis.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53904
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