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Old 10-01-2007, 11:33 AM   #8386
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The number of spacers required is so that you can change your wheelbase to suite the type of track you run on.
haha, i never knew that! it's so obvious now.
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:40 AM   #8387
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haha, i never knew that! it's so obvious now.
And a very good design too. Shimming the arms out to .5mm is great if you ever need to adjust it with that much precision... just make sure you use the tamiya blue colour hehe
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:48 AM   #8388
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And a very good design too. Shimming the arms out to .5mm is great if you ever need to adjust it with that much precision... just make sure you use the tamiya blue colour hehe
i was wondering why there was no wheelbase adjustment, i just had not found it yet!
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Old 10-02-2007, 07:26 AM   #8389
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i was wondering why there was no wheelbase adjustment, i just had not found it yet!
lol, easily overlooked when its just a washer that looks like the rest of the kit stock parts as I found out too.

I guess I only really thought about it when I saw some blue shims going for cheap money that I thought "I could use them on my ta05"... And I then realised the same thing

Live and learn. Just dont go too excessive on the adjustment or you might bind up the dogbones (if you still run them) as the whole hub carrier obviously moves to make the wheelbase longer or shorter, the more you adjust from the kit setting, making the dogbone off centre in its positioning.

I think you'd have to be at maximum extremes to do that though! Most shims you can buy from 0.5 to 5mm, thats what package I got hold of.
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:54 AM   #8390
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I run L/W suspension (no dogbones) and you don't need to worry about how much you move the hubs in relation to the diff outdrives.
We run on tight/technical carpet and asphalt tracks. Keeping the wheelbase short makes the car respond quicker in cornering, unfortunately this normally make the rear end loose, so by moving the entire wheelbase rearward it settles the rear down but keeps the car responsive thru corners. End result faster corner speeds. We also run centre and front one-way for stock racing.

Wheel base settings
Front/Front 6.5mm
Front/Rear 3.5mm

Rear/Front 6.0mm
Rear/Rear 3.5mm

Total spacing is differant because the front still has the standard kit plastic suspension blocks.

Tamiya spacer set 53539
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53539
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Old 10-02-2007, 10:06 AM   #8391
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Thats useful info was0car, I kept my wheelbase almost similar to kit, but used the kit wishbones so I wasnt too sure how things would work out, thought better to post and be safe than sorry

Theres a few options to play with and see what works best.
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Old 10-03-2007, 01:08 PM   #8392
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Anyone have a rubber tires on carpet setup?
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Old 10-03-2007, 02:37 PM   #8393
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Anyone have a rubber tires on carpet setup?
there is a good setup quite a few pages back if you are able to spend the time to look for it, sorry I dont remember the page number
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Old 10-03-2007, 02:48 PM   #8394
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yea i don't wanna say i'm lazy buuuuuut i don't fee like going through 210 pages
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Old 10-03-2007, 03:35 PM   #8395
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before you ask, the rear toe-in is three degrees, 2' on the hubs and 1' inboard.
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Old 10-03-2007, 04:28 PM   #8396
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Thank you!
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Old 10-03-2007, 10:37 PM   #8397
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Cool car but I'm debating selling mine...

If anyone has interest in a TA05R roller please email or PM me.

[email protected]
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:10 PM   #8398
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seeking some help.....just purchased a new TA05 and running standard running gear 70T spur and 24T pinion with a orion method 17x2. Ran today and after 5minutes motor starts smoking and is really hot to touch. Track I run on is flowing, with a couple of tight sections, but I'm unsure of gearing (spur/pinion combo) to use for this motor, or in fact say a 15T motor that I was thinking of geteting. Can anyone suggest a balanced set-up for someone who doesn't race, and is not going to cause motor to over heat/smoke in the future.

Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Does anyone have any suggestions for me?
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Old 10-08-2007, 06:56 PM   #8399
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> seeking some help.....just purchased a new TA05 and running standard >running gear 70T spur and 24T pinion with a orion method 17x2. Ran today and >after 5minutes motor starts smoking and is really hot to touch. Track I run on >is flowing, with a couple of tight sections, but I'm unsure of gearing >(spur/pinion combo) to use for this motor, or in fact say a 15T motor that I >was thinking of geteting. Can anyone suggest a balanced set-up for someone >who doesn't race, and is not going to cause motor to over heat/smoke in the >future.

There could be a lot of things wrong. If that motor has BUSHINGS instead of BEARINGS it will generate more heat especially if it's not broken in. I think the HAVOC's are not rebuildable which means theres not a lot you can do to them. Try a STOCK motor like a p2k or green 3 and see if you have the same problem. You could have a bad bearing or binding somewhere, does the car roll fine without the motor in? Your gonna have to be more specific. Do a search on here there should be a gear ratio chart somewhere. You want approx 3.24 I think it was for final ratio. If you order any of the HPI spur gears they used to include a chart for gear ratio.

HTH

p.s. check out the setup sheet above, 19t motor 76 spur 26 pinion, big difference than what your running.
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Old 10-08-2007, 07:25 PM   #8400
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car rolls all ok, doesn't appear to be any binding at all....all new bearings etc.

I'm confused about overgearing and undergearing the car.....it appears that at 70/24 x 2.25 I'm running 6.56 FDR, which I'm unsure is overgeared or undergeared.........the more I read the more confused I get.

If I was to run 70/22 x 2.25 I get 7.15 - would this address the heat problem for the motor, or if I go 64 pitch spur and pinion, some good combo's to run with a 14t or 15t Associated LRP V10 14t Double.
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