doriftu

iTrader: (11)

what is the most common or crucial hop up to a stock TA05 chassis?

is upgrading the tub chassis to a CF chassis common among TA05 users?

would appreciate your comments here as im contemplating either to get the MS version or stock version and hop it up...

thanks!

rctouringracer

iTrader: (5)

Save your money and buy the MS comes with everything you need to be competitive.

PutAwayWet

iTrader: (1)

Depends on the racing class.

For silver can, the stock chassis is a fine beginning. I would recommend a spring set, 64p spur gear and range of pinions, front CVD's, a Kimbrough servo saver, and a ton of laps.

For stock or 13.5 brushless, the TA05-R is the best start. Add one ways if you're on pavement, a servo saver, and replace the turnbuckles as you break them. Otherwise you're good.

The CF chassis is notoriously tweaked out of the mold. We've had poor luck with them at my track. Mine was no good and I went back to the stock. It's perfectly straight and durable.

It's a great car. Probably the best club car since the TC3.

(517)RCKID

so how do u think the MS will compare to the 415MS or 415MSX? b/c i want a good new car but it will be my first one so i do not want nething to advanced.....and to me the TA-05 looks like a great starter car!

raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

Anyone have a decent foam on carpet setup they can post?

rctouringracer

iTrader: (5)

415MS, excellent choice for carpet racing, but out of production.
415MSX, great choice for asphalt racing, again out of production and must be checked for tweaks after every run.
TA05MS, new car offers the latest in Tamiya's technology to the consumer.
415MSXX MR, don't know what to say about it, don't really understand why it exists, IMO great shelf queen????

martman_oc

iTrader: (23)

I would get rid of the coppers on the front, blue or silver would be better. No sway bars anywhere. Lots of droop, 5-3 or 4-2. The TA05 likes to be soft, just make sure you have 5 mm ride height front and back and 2 degrees camber front and back. I love my TA05 and routinely keep up with more expensive cars like Xrays. My TA05 is totally stock except universals on the front and Tamiya yellow springs all around. I will try the red springs in the back next time. Oh, the motor is a 13.5.

C_Suzuki

i run red springs in the backwith a red swaybar, and a 4600 mamba and lipos, the car is pretty fast for the amount it weighs, the only thing ive noticed and some other people that i race with, the car seems to have a slower transistion speed but im guess thats from the weight

m3ndo5a

iTrader: (7)

Sure:

Your biggest performance change will be your tires; this is overlooked by so many racers....this is the secret....your grip can make the difference between a lap or two, even with a poorly set up car.

rp30
sorex 36 medium insert
take off 27

Go with kit set up.

then start with these minor changes

Short arms

Front Spool

(This work great with a front and center oneways)

1mm blocks under each block (giving the car more roll)
note:you can get away with just the rear.
I have gone as high as 2mm under each block

1mm shim under the inner camber link front and rear(using the longest setting) Tamiya Aluminum Bulkheads.....

2mm under the outter camber link

these changes alone should make the car bite down hard.

1.5 - 2 degree camber all around

Damper (CF Hop Up)
30wt
Yellow springs
Front
top 2nd hole from the outside
lower outside hole
25wt
Red Springs
top 3rd hole from the outside
lower inner hole

I have stock blocks it the rear(1b) if it start to break loose, which it shouldn't
I will go up a letter 1c 1d 1e. And or move the top Shock position inward.

Droop

front 1mm up travel
rear 2-2.5 up travel

If the shocks are working great I will tighten this baby down

front .5
rear 1.5

I hate body roll....or watching the car settle.

Due to the uneven Molded I sometime may have to twist chassis then adjust the Tweak with my Preload.

I try to keep my preload even
the samething with the droop. It will be off by maybe .3 and 5.mm or as much as 1mm
That is okay for this chassis is solid... The tweak will not be offset by hit anything.

I run Brushless and I have run as high as FDR 5 and As low as FDR 4.5

I will run as close to termal as possible......There is alot of butt to move on this car.

The only reason I kept this car over all my others, is I love watching the faces of other racer Once they realize they have been done in by a Ta05R.


I did change the Internal Ratio (IR) to 1.944


Good Luck

C_Suzuki

what gears are you using to get the 1.944ir?

tc3team

Im guessing the centre pulleys are smaller, 3racing do them I think

Bad-Andy

iTrader: (2)

This is the setup a friend of mine used for foam tires on carpet. I used this for a foam tire asphalt setup with only a spring change and plan to use this this winter when our indoor season starts. For asphalt I changed to Tamiya purples in front and greys in the rear.

Front:

Springs: Assoc Purple or Xray Peptos (you'll need the 1mm drop down spring perches)
Oil: Assoc 40 wt
Pistons: Tamiya 3hole (I'm running Tamiya TRF LTD Shocks)
sway-bar: none (but I have them)
shock towers:2nd hole from the outside (I have the graphite ones)
camber links: per book. (I run higher roll centers at CEFX)
Castor: 4 degree blocks
Camber: -2 degrees
steering knuckles: per book.
toe blocks: D f D r TRF Blocks
Rear:

Springs: Assoc Red or Xray Violet (again with 1mm drop perches)
Oil: Assoc 30 wt
Pistons: Tamiya 3 hole
Sway-Bar: none
Shock tower: 2nd hole from the outside. (I have the rear graphite tower on)
Camber Links: per book (High for CEFX)
Toe in: -1 degree, -2 on lower grip
Toe blocks: Cf,Cr TRF blocks
Wheel Base: Med.

Misc:

Tires: Parma Magena/Cyan. Size 2.300 to start.
Servo: Ko 2343 fet powered
power: GTB/13.5
Spur: 88
Pinon: depending on track (I was a high as a 46)
Body: Parma Alfa.

raffaelli

iTrader: (13)

Thanks!

m3ndo5a

iTrader: (7)

I am using the Tech Racing Aluminum 18t center pulley and
35t TRF Pulley.....

Aluma

iTrader: (1)

what do you mean by short arms?