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Old 07-31-2007, 03:44 AM   #8176
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if it is the kit pinion, they last about 5 seconds before the tooth surface profile starts to get worn. Invest in a decent 48dp spur and pinion combo and save money.

Drilling holes in the chassis, done it, doesn't affect handling, but also didn't save an awful lot of weight either.
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Old 07-31-2007, 04:30 AM   #8177
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Hey guys. I recently got a TA05R and am also having the vibration problem that some others have had. The only difference is that I'm not running a spool up front. Just the ball differential that is given. Visually, there is nothing in the way or anything. I've rebuilt this thing twice and there is no change. Will using shorter universals help the problem? Or is there more to it? Because it's stupid having to buy other parts when the ones supplied are supposed to work >_>
The problem you having is due to too much steering travel and needs to be sorted by adjusting the EPA ( end points) on your radio provided you radio has EPA adjustments or if not use your dual rate to dial out some steering.
This is a common problem and if sorted out and adapted to you will find that you will be able to carry more corners speed and get more consistant laps.
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Old 07-31-2007, 07:28 AM   #8178
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Guys, checked out the pinion and replaced it with a new one, still the noise occurs... I even tried changing the spur to 105t of tamiya and a new pinion (37t)... still noise occurs, o I'm doubting it's not from the gears...

Where do you guys think it is??? it is somewhere in the center of the kit... might be the motor??? but I checked and cleaned it already... removed all dirts... Hope someone could help me...
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:23 AM   #8179
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just mounted the spool on my TA05, the arm wobbles violently when I make a full turn, both left and right. It is still ok if the turn is about 80-90%.

All is fine when I swap back to the diff.

Why this is so? and i am using universal.
I just don't think turn down your steering is actually solving the problem (unless you want to turn less.) because this is a issue occur on the SPOOL, but not on diff and 1-way....so it has nothing to do with the steering. Beside, no matter how much of your steering EPA setting, the most you can turn is whatever that C-hub/knuckles will allow...

I have the spool on my TA05R when it was new and had the exact same problem like you...the problem is the UNIVERSAL on your car, the stock bone is too long on my TA05R (I am not sure what is the TA05 came with..)...it is very odd cause it fit perfectly when your steering is straight or even turn to like 30-50%...but once it turn more, it start vibrating....and when I was running outdoor with 4.5, I was expecting broken CVD or a lot of broke plastic/alum on my car....but that did not happen, not even a scratch on my CVD or outdrive...but just vibrating when I turn 100% full left and right.

I forgot what is my TA05R front universal's bones length (48..?) but I know Tamiya have several shorter version of bone to install onto the existing universal (46, 43..?)...just use the next shorter bone with your spool and that should solve the problem and still have 100% of your steering...

I don't like the feeling of spool...so I didn't bother to shorten my front universal to try....I like diff and 1-way more. I have change my diff back on the car and no vibration occur, my diff, spool, and the car are all brand new, so no worn parts involve. If you measure the full width of the spool and the diff...I believed the spool (outdrive to outdirve) is wider then the diff........that explain why the hub vibrate by using spool (but not the 1-way or diff) when the car is turning. Give that a try....

Last edited by Solara; 07-31-2007 at 11:36 AM.
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:52 AM   #8180
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Just look around the Tamiya site about the TA05R Swing Shafts information......TA05R use 48mm front and rear Swing Shafts, and Tamiya does have a 46mm swing shaft which I think it is short enough to use on the spool..

Item #53724 - TB Evo IV 46mm Swing Shaft - Lightweight

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Old 07-31-2007, 01:48 PM   #8181
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OK, another maybe dumb question, but reading these posts one of the downsides of the TA05 is the weight. So can you drill a bunch of small holes in the car to make it lighter? We used to do it on our mountain bikes all the time.

I'm sure it would only save a couple of grams, but carefully done it might be easier to balance the car without adding weight?

Once again, maybe it's just not done or stupid (or against rules?), but I was just wondering.

tom
There's nothing wrong in trying it, but you do need to remember one thing, if you're gonna run that car in a TCS event, then you must NOT do any drilling or lightening on the chassis, their rules prohibit that(but any other kind of racing, it's no problem).....
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Old 07-31-2007, 02:12 PM   #8182
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Thanks for the replies. I was wondering if it was even worth the trouble. It doesn't sound like it is.

tom
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Old 07-31-2007, 02:49 PM   #8183
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Hi,

Its the TA05R a good and competitive car for 19T class ?, im about to enter to the electric world and im just about to get an XRAY T2 2007 but saw a good price deal on www.speedtechrc.com for US$ 249 including some hop ups.

The kit its not discontinnued ?, have problems to find parts ?

thanks for the info, im planning on using a brushless novak 10.5 system ...
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Old 07-31-2007, 04:10 PM   #8184
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certainly the TA-05 is good! its great for any kind of racing! you can't beat the bang for your buck quality and tamiya parts support. and you can compete in the Tamiya race series.
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Old 07-31-2007, 05:40 PM   #8185
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Hi Solara, I agree with you turning the EPA down is not really the way to go. I am using the 48mm bones, will try with the shorter 46mm and see if it's ok.

Besides, I prefer diff and 1-way, but the track i am going to race in is rather tight and requires substanstial braking at the straight end. Hard braking with a 1-way, car will spin. Diff is still alright, but braking with a spool is just perfect. At least the rear will stick more.

Anyway, let's try the 46mm and let you guys know.
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Old 08-01-2007, 05:28 AM   #8186
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anyone looking for a ta05 manual can find it here if they need it (useful if you're at work and your manual is at home like me lol )

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:09 AM   #8187
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Hi,

Its the TA05R a good and competitive car for 19T class ?, im about to enter to the electric world and im just about to get an XRAY T2 2007 but saw a good price deal on www.speedtechrc.com for US$ 249 including some hop ups.

The kit its not discontinnued ?, have problems to find parts ?

thanks for the info, im planning on using a brushless novak 10.5 system ...
Im running the 19T national championship with a totally hop-up TA-05. Totally strippend for any additional weight.
Problem is that with the 5 cell rules itīs 95 Grams to heavy to the 415, X-ray and corelly.
Just so you know that the car will not benefit you as its to heavy for the competition.
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Old 08-01-2007, 06:11 AM   #8188
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Originally Posted by Xanavi_R34 View Post
Guys, checked out the pinion and replaced it with a new one, still the noise occurs... I even tried changing the spur to 105t of tamiya and a new pinion (37t)... still noise occurs, o I'm doubting it's not from the gears...

Where do you guys think it is??? it is somewhere in the center of the kit... might be the motor??? but I checked and cleaned it already... removed all dirts... Hope someone could help me...
anyone guys???
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:05 AM   #8189
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Xanavi, maybe your belts are set too tight. have you checked that? your diffs may need to be tightened or loosened too.
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:31 AM   #8190
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nope... belts just right... diffs are re assembled and re checked, so no problem with them... really dont know how to remove the f%#king annoying noise...
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