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Old 07-15-2007, 10:59 AM   #8101
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also, what size (# of teeth) pinion gear should i start with if i will be using the Novak Velocity GTB 3.5R brushless motor system? they say it should not exceed 175f degrees at the end of each run, so how high can i go using the 105 tooth spur gear?

or does it all come down to buying a few from the whole spectrum of pinions and determining what range i will have to be in? i don't like having to guess and ultimately waste money on gears that i will never end up having to use...
thanks
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Old 07-15-2007, 12:13 PM   #8102
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Originally Posted by macnkitty2002 View Post
also, what size (# of teeth) pinion gear should i start with if i will be using the Novak Velocity GTB 3.5R brushless motor system? they say it should not exceed 175f degrees at the end of each run, so how high can i go using the 105 tooth spur gear?

or does it all come down to buying a few from the whole spectrum of pinions and determining what range i will have to be in? i don't like having to guess and ultimately waste money on gears that i will never end up having to use...
thanks
Generally it's more of the latter. You really need to have a good range of pinions(& sometimes spurs too) to make sure you can get the FDR you need for a given motor & given track layout. Unfortunately, I have no experience with the 3.5 motor(the only brushless I've used is the 13.5, I'm more of a Stock Rubber kind of guy), so I can't really guess on a starting FDR for that(but anyone at your local track who uses it should be able to help there, or anyone else with experience using that motor on similar sized tracks). And about the spur size, yes, just go for a spur that's close in diameter & you should be ok(but I would still suggest getting one or two more spurs of differing sizes compared to what you choose to start, so you'll still have some gearing flexibility, with 48 pitch, every change in pinion makes a bigger difference in gear ratio than going up or down by one tooth with 64 pitch, so to make small adjustments, it becomes more neccessary to have a selection of spurs to get the exact ratio you want)......
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Old 07-15-2007, 02:25 PM   #8103
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thanks a lot Grizzbob. that cleared a lot of things up for me. i can't decide whether to go with the 48 pitch or 64 pitch. i will probably go with the 64 pitch simply because there is less resistance in the drivetrain with it and i also have more variety of gear changes i can make.

haha, one last question.how do i determine whether or not my belts are tight enough? once i have broken them in, i know i will need to retighten them (going on what everybody has said). should they be tight enough so that they still give a little when i press down in them, but yet loose enough so that they do not bind up the drivetrain? i have little experience with belt driven cars, so any help will be appreciated by this EP TC noob.
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Old 07-15-2007, 03:35 PM   #8104
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I ran my car for about 30 minutes for the first time the other day, and while the rear belt still seems slightly looser than the front (both set at factory spec), they did not significantly loosen or tighten up, so after checking my diffs for bindage and making sure they are moving smoothly, I left the belts alone.

From what I gather, unless your belts are so loose that they are flipping over or chewing themselves up, a little loose seems ok, because there is less drivetrain resistance than when they are tight.

rctouringracer: thanks for the answers, I hadn't done either thing I had asked, I had just heard them mentioned before and was wondering if either was applicable to the TA05R

Anyone know a good touring car setup station that won't completely break my wallet? I was thinking the Integy, but any suggestions would be helpful

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Old 07-15-2007, 04:22 PM   #8105
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thanks a lot Grizzbob. that cleared a lot of things up for me. i can't decide whether to go with the 48 pitch or 64 pitch. i will probably go with the 64 pitch simply because there is less resistance in the drivetrain with it and i also have more variety of gear changes i can make.

haha, one last question.how do i determine whether or not my belts are tight enough? once i have broken them in, i know i will need to retighten them (going on what everybody has said). should they be tight enough so that they still give a little when i press down in them, but yet loose enough so that they do not bind up the drivetrain? i have little experience with belt driven cars, so any help will be appreciated by this EP TC noob.
Well, I'll admit I'm not that comfortable with belt tension setting either(I only just switched back to belt-driven cars again in December after I got fed up trying to get my FT TC4 to handle right for me & already had my TA05 there which I'd just bought to run TCS races with, made the switch & am MUCH happier now), but I just try to make sure that the belt can't touch anything as I GENTLY press on it, & make sure it still has a little give to it, seems to work that way, haven't had any odd belt wear & the drivetrain seems to be free enough......
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Old 07-15-2007, 08:33 PM   #8106
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does anybody on here run lipo batteries in their car? is it necessary to have a lipo voltage cut-off module in the car, or can i just take it off the track and charge it once the battery dumps? i have lipos for my other mini cars, and i can easily see when the pack dumps and it is time to charge. since i'll be getting a lipo for my 1/10 TC now, i did not know if i needed one or are they just for the complete dummies...

this is what i was looking at.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPGM8&P=M
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Old 07-15-2007, 09:34 PM   #8107
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Hey guys,
Ran my R today at my club race and a just clipped a wall and bent one of my DJ pro module rear arms, out one degree.
Does anyone have a bent module they'd like to sell?
PM me if so.....
Didn't take a spare rear set-up with me to the track, so I had to pull out the EVO5 and get the job done today!
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:29 PM   #8108
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Hi All looking for a after-market chassis. Which is the best, and where to get it

Thanks Rodney
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:34 PM   #8109
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I have a brand new Kawada Conversion kit for sell for $180 shipped. It also includes the front and rear Shock tower kits as well.
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Old 07-16-2007, 12:57 PM   #8110
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I run a Penguin RC chassis. Excellent fit and finish. Great price also. Speed Tech has them for right around $95 I believe. Heres a link.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...il.asp?id=6782

Also does any one know somewhere that has a after market hard front bumper in stock for the TA05.
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Old 07-16-2007, 03:11 PM   #8111
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I run a Penguin RC chassis. Excellent fit and finish. Great price also. Speed Tech has them for right around $95 I believe. Heres a link.

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...il.asp?id=6782

Also does any one know somewhere that has a after market hard front bumper in stock for the TA05.
Out of stock
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Old 07-16-2007, 03:15 PM   #8112
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Hey, Dan...Steve at Speedtech can get the Penguin Chassis kits pretty quick

If you want one, call him at 909 869-9443
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Old 07-20-2007, 10:40 AM   #8113
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I just put together my Penguin chassis and i'm loving it. As any other chassis though, there are flaws. First off, Penguin should of made aluminum standoffs instead of stacking washer over washer. Secondly, the top plate doesn't sit flat due to the motor mount being slightly higher that the bulkheads, which causes a bulge (washers did not fix it.) Third - I don't know if its the chassis itself but the front belt was extremely tight and the rear was loose. I had to move the diff 2 notches looser front and one notch tighter in the rear. And lastly, the steering could use one more washer over the post (not the one on top). There's about 2mm exposed from the steering post. Other than that, everything looks good.
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Old 07-20-2007, 03:02 PM   #8114
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hey guys,
what gearing combo. do you recomend with a 23t motor?
thanks again
dom
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Old 07-20-2007, 03:50 PM   #8115
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Quote:
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hey guys,
what gearing combo. do you recomend with a 23t motor?
thanks again
dom
I ran 7.5 to 8 FDR on 27T motor (CO27).....for 23T, you can try between 7-8 FDR.
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