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Old 07-09-2007, 05:39 PM   #8056
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These cars are absolutely dialed on asphalt with rubber tires.
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:47 PM   #8057
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I second that FACT!
I race my TA05R every other weekend with local club grouped 13.5 BL class and consistently run with or faster lap times then the Xrays, Hotbodies, Losis, & the new Assiocated cars.
The TA05R handling is very consistent & fore giving, plus it is extremely durable.
At this point between driving both the MSX and TA05R, I'm favouring the 'R'.
The MSX may be a faster ride, but the consistency of the 'R' is more important to place well in every heat.
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:44 PM   #8058
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I was gonna run mine for the first time tonight, but I realized that the co27 I just bought doesnt have brushes

LHS closed at 7
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:04 AM   #8059
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Originally Posted by Frost99999 View Post
Thats hawt Simon. What sort of issues were you having with your ESC? Im running my R for the first time later today and this is the second time people have mentioned issues with static or electrical issues...
As it happened, the static wasn't the problem. I was using an old Mtroniks Pro Digi max 2000 ESC which only supplied 5v @ 1.5A to the servo. I'd used it previously with KO FET servo's where you solder the extra wire they have to one on the speedie that bypasses the BEC altogether.

The brand spanking and extremely fast new digital servo I'd bought didn't have the extra wire the FET servo does and was trying to run on the limited power available to it. Much glitching and general unhappiness ensued.

So now...My BD runs an LRP QC2 and ERG WRX servo and these work flawlessly. The 05R has the Mtronik and a KO 2123 FET servo. Both run Corally IB cells and Oscar Jansen motors.

Back to ironing out the "new car niggles" but everythings working out well.
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:57 AM   #8060
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hey guys... need help here... Can someone tell me what should I change?setup in a stock TA05??? Carbon suspension tower, center one way, front one way, etc, etc... Kindly enumerate it... thanks...
Depends on what level your driving's at.
The only real weakness in the standard kit are the front dog bones, universals are more reliable (no problems with dog bones on rear) and the kit diff outdrives, however you may as well use the kit outdrives untill they get flogged out then go to precision outdrives.
That's about all I recommend untill you start turning consistant laps.
I find the kit oil dampers a bit average, go the TRF dampers and get a spring set to give tuning options to suit tracks you run on.
Final tip get a copy of the XXX Main Setup Guide book.

The Ta-05 will go faster with some other options but they are a waste of money unless you are going fast and consistant with the above suggestions.
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Old 07-10-2007, 07:54 PM   #8061
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Originally Posted by waOscar View Post
Depends on what level your driving's at.
The only real weakness in the standard kit are the front dog bones, universals are more reliable (no problems with dog bones on rear) and the kit diff outdrives, however you may as well use the kit outdrives untill they get flogged out then go to precision outdrives.
That's about all I recommend untill you start turning consistant laps.
I find the kit oil dampers a bit average, go the TRF dampers and get a spring set to give tuning options to suit tracks you run on.
Final tip get a copy of the XXX Main Setup Guide book.

The Ta-05 will go faster with some other options but they are a waste of money unless you are going fast and consistant with the above suggestions.
I uses a 23t motor... yup, I want to change my dog bones to universal, not because they are weak but when you turn it makes your kit a little bit slower and that will cost time lost but no money yet for that...

what does the precision outdrives look like?

yeah, I changed my dampers to trf already...

okay, will try to find the XXX main setup guide book...

thanks bro...
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Old 07-10-2007, 09:56 PM   #8062
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The precision diff halves are black with blue anodized aluminum retainer rings. The Tamiya part number is 53849.
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:38 PM   #8063
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The precision diff halves are black with blue anodized aluminum retainer rings. The Tamiya part number is 53849.
oh okay... thanks for the part number... will look at it later...

should I change my shock tower to CF or should I just leave as is??
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:40 PM   #8064
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Sigh. I have some problems!

1 - motor I had didnt have brushes or springs. Fixed it, first time I have ever installed those

2 - massive issues with soldering the ESC leads to the motor...FINALLY got them on there by switching brands of solder (from deans to cheap stuff, surprisingly)

3 - I got my JR XR3 used, and my LRP IPC pro sport ESC used as well. Im pretty sure the transmitter and receiver work fine, because I can turn my wheels with the transmitter...BUT, I am having weird issues with the ESC, I think. Glitching or something...I put the car on the ground and hit the throttle, and the motor spins....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It seems like the signal isnt getting to the motor from the ESC...the light on the ESC glows when I hit the throttle, though...weird.

4 - when the motor spun, I realized that while the car was sitting, it didnt go forward....it was like both of my diffs were completely neutral and not grabbing at all. The spur was lined up with the pinion fine, and the belts were spinning, so I can only assume I screwed something up with the diffs.

I just disasemmbled the rear diff case and the action on it is smooth and the main bolt is still in the nut on the other side. I assume the front is the same, but will probably check it tommorow.

Thoughts?
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:44 PM   #8065
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Originally Posted by Frost99999 View Post
Sigh. I have some problems!

1 - motor I had didnt have brushes or springs. Fixed it, first time I have ever installed those

2 - massive issues with soldering the ESC leads to the motor...FINALLY got them on there by switching brands of solder (from deans to cheap stuff, surprisingly)

3 - I got my JR XR3 used, and my LRP IPC pro sport ESC used as well. Im pretty sure the transmitter and receiver work fine, because I can turn my wheels with the transmitter...BUT, I am having weird issues with the ESC, I think. Glitching or something...I put the car on the ground and hit the throttle, and the motor spins....sometimes. Sometimes it doesn't. It seems like the signal isnt getting to the motor from the ESC...the light on the ESC glows when I hit the throttle, though...weird.

4 - when the motor spun, I realized that while the car was sitting, it didnt go forward....it was like both of my diffs were completely neutral and not grabbing at all. The spur was lined up with the pinion fine, and the belts were spinning, so I can only assume I screwed something up with the diffs.

I just disasemmbled the rear diff case and the action on it is smooth and the main bolt is still in the nut on the other side. I assume the front is the same, but will probably check it tommorow.

Thoughts?
for #3... make sure your brushes are "seated". break them in for a few minutes at low voltage. the "stuttering" you're experiencing might be because your hanging a brush on the comm.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:18 AM   #8066
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Frost,

Are the diffs tight enough? I guess that would be a starting point... Otherwise, maybe a problem with the axles?

Ken
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:22 AM   #8067
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Im not sure if they are tight enough...when I tighten them further, they seem to make some friction noises when I turn them.

If I hold one outdrive and spin the other, the pulley turns with it. If I hold both outdrives the pulley is locked with them...thats how its supposed to work, right?
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Old 07-11-2007, 05:00 AM   #8068
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The diffs should be fairly tight. The diff screws should be turned less than one turn out from fully tight.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:44 AM   #8069
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The diffs should be fairly tight. The diff screws should be turned less than one turn out from fully tight.
You mean the screw that runs down the middle and holds it together, or you mean the case screws?

The diff turns smoothly now, if I tighten it I can feel friction inside it. I guess the real question is are they supposed to turn the way the way I mentioned before?
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:55 AM   #8070
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Originally Posted by Frost99999 View Post
You mean the screw that runs down the middle and holds it together, or you mean the case screws?

The diff turns smoothly now, if I tighten it I can feel friction inside it. I guess the real question is are they supposed to turn the way the way I mentioned before?
With it in the car you hold one tire and your spur and it should be very difficult to turn the other tire. When you hold just the spur and turn one tire it should easily turn the other tire in the opposite direction.
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