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Old 07-05-2007, 09:03 PM   #8011
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i pre-compressed my diff springs and it made it easy to install. they are not flattened, i just crushed them about 1.5mm. that made it possible to install them.

the build it going pretty well so far. just finished the shocks (which by the way has been the easiest and most efficient shock building time i have ever had). however i found a problem. the right front inside steering tie-rod ball cup is rubbing on the front "chassis brace" where it flares up to clear the rods. the left side is clear, though only by a little bit. when i turn the steering bellcrank to the right, the right inside ball cup gets caught on that flared part (on the underside of it). do you get what i mean? is it just a matter of having to dremel out some material, or is that threatening the integrity of the front end?

thanks
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Old 07-05-2007, 09:39 PM   #8012
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when installing the steering servo, the instructions say to cut away some of the chassis to allow the servo horn to rotate completely. do i just cut away down to the bottom of the chassis, or go all the way through?
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:18 PM   #8013
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I've never had to compress any of my diff springs. I just use a larger hex driver (2.5 or 3mm) to hold the nut assembly down a little and they go right together, no problem at all.
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Old 07-06-2007, 12:02 AM   #8014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macnkitty2002 View Post
i pre-compressed my diff springs and it made it easy to install. they are not flattened, i just crushed them about 1.5mm. that made it possible to install them.

the build it going pretty well so far. just finished the shocks (which by the way has been the easiest and most efficient shock building time i have ever had). however i found a problem. the right front inside steering tie-rod ball cup is rubbing on the front "chassis brace" where it flares up to clear the rods. the left side is clear, though only by a little bit. when i turn the steering bellcrank to the right, the right inside ball cup gets caught on that flared part (on the underside of it). do you get what i mean? is it just a matter of having to dremel out some material, or is that threatening the integrity of the front end?

thanks
My friend just had the same problem with his TA05 (I think at least). Going by your description of the problem, if you look closely at the steering assembly, you should notice that the right side of the steering plate (part K2) is pushed a little forward in comparison to the left side.

What caused his problem was that he did not install the right side bellcrank arm (part K7) the right way. From the center where the arm rotates, the side which connects to the servo is a little longer. If you install the arm upside down and backwards like my friend did, it will cause the cup to rub against the under side of the front brace.

An easy way to tell if you installed K7 properly is to look for a little dot facing up slightly in front of where the steering rod ball cup connects to it. If you do not see the dot, then it probably is upside down. In step 20 of the TA05R manual, you can vaguely see the dot I am referring to.

Ken
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:47 AM   #8015
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Avoid cutting the chassis.
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:50 AM   #8016
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The spring will be compressed the first time it is installed in the car anyway so I don't see why people are getting all stressed about giving it a squeeze with some pliers to make assembly easy.
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Old 07-06-2007, 05:59 AM   #8017
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Quote:
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when installing the steering servo, the instructions say to cut away some of the chassis to allow the servo horn to rotate completely. do i just cut away down to the bottom of the chassis, or go all the way through?
I had to cut a very narrow slot on my chassis to allow full movement of the steering assembly. I only went down to the first reinforcing rib on the side of the chassis, maybe .09" or so deep by .063" wide. By not hacking away at the reinforcement area you are not really affecting the structural integrity of the chassis. If you need more, trim the horn on the servo saver to give you the rest of the clearance you need. Just make sure you give enough clearance for the servo saver to do it's job in case you tag a wall with the wheels turned.
The Kyosho method of integrating the servo saver into the bell cranks would have been a nice feature on this car, given that space for the electronics is at a premium.
Jim

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Old 07-06-2007, 09:12 AM   #8018
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Because it really can't get much easier to install than it already is. It just drops right in perfectly if you assemble it the way they say to.

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The spring will be compressed the first time it is installed in the car anyway so I don't see why people are getting all stressed about giving it a squeeze with some pliers to make assembly easy.
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Old 07-06-2007, 10:44 AM   #8019
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2 quick and stupid questions:

1 - where can I get Tamiya .04 pinions besides Tower Hobbies (they are out of the ones I want) and dinball? I checked speedtechrc and tamiya america, no dice.

2 - is it Tuh-me-uh, or tuh-my-uh?

Told you they were stupid :P
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Old 07-06-2007, 10:50 AM   #8020
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Quote:
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2 quick and stupid questions:

1 - where can I get Tamiya .04 pinions besides Tower Hobbies (they are out of the ones I want) and dinball? I checked speedtechrc and tamiya america, no dice.

2 - is it Tuh-me-uh, or tuh-my-uh?

Told you they were stupid :P
My favorite Tamiya (Tuh-me-uh) shop is RC Champ. There is no online ordering, but if you fill out the order sheet with the part number, etc. and email it, they will get back with you right away. Price will be in Yen, but you can pay in Yen through PayPal.

Another favorite (besides RCMart a/k/a Dinball) is RC Mushroom.

There are others, but these are my favorites.
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Old 07-06-2007, 01:53 PM   #8021
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My favorite Tamiya (Tuh-me-uh) shop is RC Champ. There is no online ordering, but if you fill out the order sheet with the part number, etc. and email it, they will get back with you right away. Price will be in Yen, but you can pay in Yen through PayPal.

Another favorite (besides RCMart a/k/a Dinball) is RC Mushroom.

There are others, but these are my favorites.
Thanks! Are there any others in the states?
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Old 07-06-2007, 02:59 PM   #8022
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Quote:
My friend just had the same problem with his TA05 (I think at least). Going by your description of the problem, if you look closely at the steering assembly, you should notice that the right side of the steering plate (part K2) is pushed a little forward in comparison to the left side.

What caused his problem was that he did not install the right side bellcrank arm (part K7) the right way. From the center where the arm rotates, the side which connects to the servo is a little longer. If you install the arm upside down and backwards like my friend did, it will cause the cup to rub against the under side of the front brace.
i'm sure that's exactly what i did, put it on the wrong way. i'll go check right now. thanks.
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Old 07-06-2007, 08:44 PM   #8023
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Any one looking for a Fully Loaded TA05, mine is going to finish selling in a few hours on ebay. The reserve is low, so act soon if you want a really nice car.

Just search for TA05 and you'll find it.
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Old 07-06-2007, 10:26 PM   #8024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomFellow View Post
My favorite Tamiya (Tuh-me-uh) shop is RC Champ. There is no online ordering, but if you fill out the order sheet with the part number, etc. and email it, they will get back with you right away. Price will be in Yen, but you can pay in Yen through PayPal.

Another favorite (besides RCMart a/k/a Dinball) is RC Mushroom.

There are others, but these are my favorites.
Just switch to 64 pitch! Spurs and pinions will be more available at your LHS!
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Old 07-07-2007, 09:22 AM   #8025
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Hi

Does anyone has setups for asphalt with foam tires. where i race they only use foam tires. I looking for suspencing settings mainly. Thanks

Rodney
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