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Old 07-03-2007, 03:56 PM   #7981
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
Hey all, got a few quick questons:
1) are the aluminum diff joints worth buying, or do they just add more weight than needed?

2) is the aluminum motor mount worth buying, or does it do more for looks than for weight savings and heat dissipation?

3) are the wide pitch pulleys a good buy?
1. no, yes they add more weight.
2. yes, good for weight savings AND heat dissipation
3. yes

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Old 07-03-2007, 05:29 PM   #7982
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i'm getting my 05R on Thursday, is there anything i should be aware of when building the kit?

1. should i use different shock oils?
2. do i need to prepare the belts in any way?
3. do the diffs need to be broken in?
4. what pinion gears do you recommend for general racing on a medium sized parking lot track? (probably going to be using a Novak Velocity 5.5 brushless system)
5. should i get softer shock springs? i've heard the stock ones are pretty stiff for most uses...
6. any other building tips that would make it come together easier?

thanks a lot guys.
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Old 07-03-2007, 05:45 PM   #7983
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Thanks for the help guys...and Chris

Which pulley do you need for the spool setup? The diff pulley or the one way pulley? And does anyone have the part number for the blue hex screws for the TA05?

Yes....I am already thinking about Nats!
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Old 07-03-2007, 07:34 PM   #7984
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Originally Posted by Jpelosi View Post
Well I did a little research myself, since I've got spring fever and I don't feel like doing any more drawings today.
Here's some photos I ripped from TowerHobbies
73t 48 DP



104t 64 DP


The face of the 64DP gear seems to have a concave / chamfered area right by the 3mm clearance holes. I don't know what it looks like on the other side of the gear. Perhaps some 82 degree flat head screws (or whatever the metric equivelent is) would help in keeping the gear mounted flush against the hub.
The 48DP gear is indeed flat in the same area, which is what I'm using on my TA05R.
Interesting.
Jim
So what you are saying, if using the Robinson 64Dp spurs at your own risk of not working, or even with the lip they still work ok?

Last edited by Blue_VB_SL253; 07-04-2007 at 10:05 AM.
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Old 07-03-2007, 09:16 PM   #7985
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Originally Posted by CarKing View Post
....Which pulley do you need for the spool setup? The diff pulley or the one way pulley? ....

Yes....I am already thinking about Nats!
One-way..

..and..
yup, me too...
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:53 PM   #7986
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Does anyone know where I can find (who has them in stock) the 32t diff pulley part #50877? Or if anyone has an extra one they want to sell me please pm me.
Thanks
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Old 07-03-2007, 11:57 PM   #7987
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Does anyone know where I can find (who has them in stock) the 32t diff pulley part #50877? Or if anyone has an extra one they want to sell me please pm me.
Thanks
I think Randy had some on the wall at the shop. They are open tomorrow from 12 to 5 I believe.

Hey what are you doing in this thread
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Old 07-04-2007, 12:02 AM   #7988
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Sweet! I wanna build a front spool to run overdrive on my Mi3!
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:01 AM   #7989
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So what you are saying, is use the Robinson 64Dp spurs at your own risk of not working, or even with the lip they still work ok?
I would say that's correct. I have no way of measuirng the spur since I don't own one.
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:06 AM   #7990
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Originally Posted by Jpelosi View Post
I would say that's correct. I have no way of measuirng the spur since I don't own one.
Well i think ill just have to try it for my self, if the lip does get in the way then ill grind it down.
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Old 07-04-2007, 05:03 PM   #7991
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Quote:
i'm getting my 05R on Thursday, is there anything i should be aware of when building the kit?

1. should i use different shock oils?
2. do i need to prepare the belts in any way?
3. do the diffs need to be broken in?
4. what pinion gears do you recommend for general racing on a medium sized parking lot track? (probably going to be using a Novak Velocity 5.5 brushless system)
5. should i get softer shock springs? i've heard the stock ones are pretty stiff for most uses...
6. any other building tips that would make it come together easier?

thanks a lot guys.
anyone???
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Old 07-04-2007, 06:03 PM   #7992
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There is really nothing special that needs to be done to the R kit that I can think of. One little problem I had was an axle pin binding on the rear hub. It must have been some worst case scenario tolerance accumulation of all the parts involved. A little polishing up of the pin in my lathe and all was well.

The one thing I DID notice was after the first 2 initial runs there was a lot of adjustments to be made on the drive train. I had to tighten the front belt up a click and both of the ball diffs needed a lot of tightening. Since then everything has been good to go.
Jim
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Old 07-04-2007, 08:59 PM   #7993
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Originally Posted by macnkitty2002 View Post
anyone???
1. I don't use the kit shock oil simply because I don't know what viscosity it supposed to be comparable to.

2. Belts just need to be adjusted if they are too loose. Your belts will flip if they are too loose, but it's best to run them as loose as possible for a resistance free drive train.

3. The diff spring is the part that would need to be broken in on the diff. However, if you use pliers to compress the spring prior to installation, you will take care of most of the diff break-in process. You might also want to sand the diff rings with 600+ grit sandpaper.

4. I used to use an 18 tooth pinion with the stock TA05 06 module spur gear for a FDR of 8.75 when I ran my 5.5R (non-sintered rotor). I have since sold my original TA05 and bought a TA05R. Now I run more tame brushless motors and have not tried my 5.5R with the new sintered rotor. I'd guess that I'd try a FDR ~8.0 for a starting point with the 5.5R and a sintered rotor.

5. For a dual-diff setup or a spool setup, the yellow medium springs (they are colored white with the TA05R, but are still medium) worked well for me.

Ken
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Old 07-04-2007, 09:38 PM   #7994
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For a dual-diff setup or a spool setup, the yellow medium springs (they are colored white with the TA05R, but are still medium) worked well for me.
thanks. that had me confused as to why Tamiya would give you super stiff springs as a starting point. i hate when companies change up the colors on you like that.

also, since i should not use the stock oils, what weight shock oils do you all recommend as a good starting point for an unprepared parking lot track?
thanks for the help
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Old 07-04-2007, 10:15 PM   #7995
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So the stock whites arent super stiff?!

Good to know!
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