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Old 06-27-2007, 05:06 PM   #7906
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Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:08 PM   #7907
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Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
you need to get a dremel with a cutting disk/disc. cut a notch deep enough in the screw so you can use a proper sized screwdriver.
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:12 PM   #7908
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you need to get a dremel with a cutting disk/disc. cut a notch deep enough in the screw so you can use a proper sized screwdriver.
thanks for the help. ill give it a go this afternoon
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:13 PM   #7909
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Originally Posted by WayzOfTheCore View Post
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
Try the soldering the tip of your driver into the stripped hex. I've done it once before, worked for me. Otherwise, if that doesn't float your boat, and you have a dremel, you could cut a slot into the head of the screw and use a flat blade to unscrew it. Have to be careful not to cut/mark the chassis though.

A lot classier than trying to unscrew it with a set of needle-nose pliers, that's for sure.
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:18 PM   #7910
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Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key

Not sure which screw it is but what I've done in the past that worked was remove all the other screws then rotate the plate to loosen the stuck screw. After it loosened up it was easy to unscrew even stripped
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:32 PM   #7911
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why are you selling it?? you and Core are like the "oracles" of the TA05.... are you thinking on the MS????


cheers,
al
I'm about to start running another Mini class (M03), and having two competitive TC's on the bench doesn't do me much good. Nothing wrong with he performance of the car. Just doing something different after two years.
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:36 PM   #7912
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Mi3 must be treating you real good.
It handles as well as my TA05 did. I learned A LOT about set up because the TA05 reacts to tuning so well. So now the grand experiment begins, to see if I can apply all that to a car that has more tuning options.

So far, I'm still finishing second to Core Creations, so that goes to prove that just changing cars wont make you faster!
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:46 PM   #7913
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why are you selling it?? you and Core are like the "oracles" of the TA05.... are you thinking on the MS????


cheers,
al
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:48 PM   #7914
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I'll have to carry on alone...keeping the TA05 flag waiving! lol
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Old 06-27-2007, 05:50 PM   #7915
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It handles as well as my TA05 did. I learned A LOT about set up because the TA05 reacts to tuning so well. So now the grand experiment begins, to see if I can apply all that to a car that has more tuning options.

So far, I'm still finishing second to Core Creations, so that goes to prove that just changing cars wont make you faster!
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I'll have to carry on alone...keeping the TA05 flag waiving! lol
its okay... im trying to make Dotman a believer too. i TQ'ed over him on sunday with my TA05 beating his MSX and a friend's RDX Phi. unfortunately, i didnt get any love from lap traffic during the main and just pulled it off after the 10th hack.
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Old 06-27-2007, 07:19 PM   #7916
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Originally Posted by WayzOfTheCore View Post
Any tips on removing a stripped hex screw? I'm running the 3 racing chassis and i somehow managed to strip a screw on the upper deck which means i cant remove the upper deck to change my spur. Its the hex part that is worn away so much that it cant be gripped with an allen key
Drill a hole in the hex that's no larger than the minor diameter of 3mm screw!
The screw will either loosen up and come right out or you can use an easyout to get it to come out the rest of the way! Last, did you try to remove all the screws on the upper deck so you can rotate the upper deck itself to loosen the screw! I never tried the soldering trick, I wonder if that works with titanium screws also?
Just my 2$
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:24 PM   #7917
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Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
Drill a hole in the hex that's no larger than the minor diameter of 3mm screw!
The screw will either loosen up and come right out or you can use an easyout to get it to come out the rest of the way! Last, did you try to remove all the screws on the upper deck so you can rotate the upper deck itself to loosen the screw! I never tried the soldering trick, I wonder if that works with titanium screws also?
Just my 2$
This is what I did too when my normal screws striped. It does work as I tried it twice. Just use a 3mm drill tip when drilling the screws and make sure is straight.
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:26 PM   #7918
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anyone still know where to order Kawada (TUB501) or 3racing CF chassis? Checked everywhere - from eBay to dinball. I emailed RC-champ and they only had the Flip (?) blue CF chassis. I guess with the MS coming out, no one is carrying any cf chassis at all. I spent almost $250 in hop-ups from a bonestock TA05, and if I do plan to sell it there is absolutely no way I'm getting back for even just the hop ups (my chassis is in MINT condition as I only played with it once.) So i've decided keep going for the whole 9 yards.

also, I posted on the last page if anyone knew what Tech Racing's "slipper diff" does? My car is being setup for drift on ABS tires - TR states its for drifting so I was curious as to what it does.

any help is greatly appreciated
You can try to get the 3racing TA05 conversion kit at http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=7459

This is the cheapest I found and I bought 1 myself 2-3 months ago.
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:42 PM   #7919
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Originally Posted by DOTMAN View Post
Not sure which screw it is but what I've done in the past that worked was remove all the other screws then rotate the plate to loosen the stuck screw. After it loosened up it was easy to unscrew even stripped
the screw on the rear of the motor mount. ive tried to rotate the plate but it hits the spur

it seems it was actually my allen keys that were stripped and not the screw. i thought it was a bit strange that i stripped a titanium screw. thanks for the help though, i was able to remove another stripped screw from a nitro engine mount
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Old 06-29-2007, 12:55 AM   #7920
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I just noticed a major problem with my rear suspension. The A-arms are coming in contact with the inside of the rim presumably during heavy cornering. This may be why I would get the tail coming out really quickly sometimes. I haven't been able to dial it out and if the rim is "locking up" on the arm, then it would explain the erratic performance.

I currently have 1 degree rear camber and changing it to about 3 will eliminate this problem but I don't really want to have to do that. The rim itself may be suspect; it feels a little loser than the stock Tamiya dish wheels. I use the premount CS27/RP30's because they are the spec tire in my club series.

You'll see in the attached pictures that it's actually chewed out a good portion of the carbon reinforced A-arm. Anyone have this problem. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

The other pic is my newly finished Kawada conversion. So far every setting change is much more pronounced with this chassis. Next week it will get raced for the first time.
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-rear-arm.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-kawada-ta05r.jpg  
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