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Old 05-23-2007, 03:17 AM   #7621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Creations
Droop has a major effect on handling.
Couldn't agree more. It is the most overlooked part of setup and possibly one of the most powerful.

If you build the kit with the recommended droop screw settings you will probably not have enough, and definitely not enough at the rear. I am running 5mm on the gauge at the front and 3mm on the gauge at the rear, measured under the hub carriers.
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Old 05-23-2007, 03:25 AM   #7622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
I've tried my best to understand this.

Is it saying something like "static electricity can cause problems with the servo on a TA05-R in certain conditions, to prevent it please use the 53893 optional carbon tub"?

If so that might explain the bizarre servo centring problem I had on mine a few weeks ago.
I cant say it will work, but try putting some double sided tape between the servo and the chassis before fixing it, it might help "barrier" any interference?
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:50 AM   #7623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsyrc
I ran my TA05R this weekend and it understeered like crazy. (it was really stable in a straight line though! )

I run on asphalt indoors, room temp, does anyone have any setups they would be willing to share for asphalt?

I had my front tires toed in about 1degree, and changed that to neutral. My rears are toed in about 2 degrees. I've got 4 degrees of caster on the fronts, 1/1.5 camber front/back.

Any help would be appreciated! I will hopefully have more time to work on it this weekend.

On another note, Just bought another TA05R for my son- he's very happy!

Tom
Hi tsyrc,

For the front, try to stick to neutral or max 2 degrees. Though toe-in the front makes the car more drivable in corners and stabilizes the car in the straights, a little toe-out, will increase your steering tremendously.
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:59 AM   #7624
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For me I never use toe in for the front of the car. It's always made a good car seem to handle poorly. I run 1-2deg toe out on all of my cars. None of them seem to wander on the straight.The benefit is they turn in like mad!
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:28 AM   #7625
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Thanks guys. I'm going to play with my suspension this weekend- I hope to get a few hours of track time!

I will also buy something to measure droop and learn how to set that up too.
(any recommendations on a droop guage?)

Thanks again

tom
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:46 AM   #7626
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Just pick up a decent ride height guage. Then use the measurement over ride height way. It's much faster and you don't even need to take the wheels off.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:51 AM   #7627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyW
I noticed the same that car really has the understeer-problem on asphalt with box-stock setup.

I made some tuning and found quite reasonable setup (not the final version, but now the car is really turning into curve):

Alternations to the box-stock setup:

FRONT
=====
- AE 35WT Shock Oil (is about the same with box-stock)
- No sway-bar
- Remove urethane rebound bushing from shock-cap
- Camber -1 degree
- Droop #5 (measured under outer hinge-pin)
- Front suspension-block "D"
- Ride-height 5mm

REAR
=====
- AE 35WT Shock Oil (is about the same with box-stock)
- No sway-bar
- Remove urethane rebound bushing from shock-cap
- Camber -1 degree
- Droop #4 (measured under outer hinge-pin)
- Ride-height 5.5mm

Next things I will test:

- Test thinner shock oil (I would like to make car react faster when turning steering-wheel)
- maybe put swaybars back when changed thinner shock oil

EDIT:

here is additional data about my car:

- Front diff is replaced with one-way
- Motor: Novak SS5800 (only allowed brushless motor in our national 17T-class)
- Battery: IB4200 6-Cell
- Tires: LRP VTEC 27R preglued (only allowed tires in our class)
- Gears: 23T/81T
I replaced shock oil with thinner one - I put to every shock XRay 25WT (only thin oil I had in my pit-box ) which is like water compared to AE 35WT. I ran without swaybars and now car was amazingly good and fast (checked with Orion Lap Counter) and still quite easy to drive!
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Old 05-23-2007, 03:28 PM   #7628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tru
ok sorry upon further looking the porsche has a shorter wheelbase
Wheelbase can be adjust on all TA05 chassis....but I want to know is, does the 934 30th anni version's bulkhead position are the same as TA05R...? If so....then the 934 version is very SIMILAR to the TA05MS except MS use 2 different belt (length) design and the 30th use same belt distance design..with similar options.

Just a guess....or I would ask my friend to bring his 30th 934 NIB and I do the measuring...
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Old 05-23-2007, 06:42 PM   #7629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
I've tried my best to understand this.

Is it saying something like "static electricity can cause problems with the servo on a TA05-R in certain conditions, to prevent it please use the 53893 optional carbon tub"?

If so that might explain the bizarre servo centring problem I had on mine a few weeks ago.
I think it means that the ta05R will cause static electricity from the friction by the belt and the pully. So using stock plastic chassis will store the charge and might damage the electronic. However, using option chassis will solve this problem?
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Old 05-24-2007, 12:58 AM   #7630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah_DaN
I think it means that the ta05R will cause static electricity from the friction by the belt and the pully. So using stock plastic chassis will store the charge and might damage the electronic. However, using option chassis will solve this problem?
You are probably correct, but using the carbon tub presents another potential hazard: possible shorting of the battery. Happened to me with a TA04 carbon tub and a home built battery . Anyone else with experience of this, or not as the case may be?
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:08 AM   #7631
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I know that batteries can be shorted in carbon chassis, but I always make sure the cell shrink is intact and that the battery bars are insulated, even something as simple as a little electricians tape along the edge of the chassis should stop a short.
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Old 05-24-2007, 08:04 AM   #7632
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I've finished assembly of my TA05R and noticed that with 0 offset wheels (such as the ones that come with the kit) the inside of the front wheels touch the upper camber link ball cup on the front suspension. It took at minimun 1.5mm of spacing to clear and it still looks close. Is anyone else having this issue?

With that much spacing the wheel locknut is barely grabbing the end of the axle and I'm also concerned about how widing the front of the car will effect handling/steering.

My stock TA05 kit didn't have this issue, so I assume it's related to the LW suspension.
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:05 AM   #7633
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I have the L/W suspension and I don't have any clearence issues with 0 offset wheels. I run the .5mm spacer. Does the kit come with the 5mm hex?
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Old 05-24-2007, 10:07 AM   #7634
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Yes, the 5mm clamping hexs come in the R kit. Pretty sure....
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Old 05-24-2007, 04:32 PM   #7635
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I run the Tamiya 6mm hexes all the way around and no problems...

With the LW suspension , it did rub.
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