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Old 05-22-2007, 07:22 AM   #7606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Anyone?
I have the Xenon one but unfortunately cannot tell you much due I also have the aluminum bulkheads on it and it ends up weighting just a little less than the bone stock car (no lightweight carbon pieces in it), around 30-40g less... not much really...
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:27 AM   #7607
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The 3racing graphite or carbon chassis is probably lighter than the carbon Tamiya tub chassis as there is less material.....

but the alloy motor mount and top plate stands on the 3racing versions probably even it up, so there is probably very little difference between the two.
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:30 AM   #7608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goingfast
What is the smallest Spur Gear will the TA05 can use??
or the largerest pinion?

Im running a 72T spur, but it is 48dp (on standard pulleys) if thats any use to you
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:51 AM   #7609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsyrc
I ran my TA05R this weekend and it understeered like crazy. (it was really stable in a straight line though! )

I run on asphalt indoors, room temp, does anyone have any setups they would be willing to share for asphalt?

I had my front tires toed in about 1degree, and changed that to neutral. My rears are toed in about 2 degrees. I've got 4 degrees of caster on the fronts, 1/1.5 camber front/back.

Any help would be appreciated! I will hopefully have more time to work on it this weekend.

On another note, Just bought another TA05R for my son- he's very happy!

Tom
I noticed the same that car really has the understeer-problem on asphalt with box-stock setup.

I made some tuning and found quite reasonable setup (not the final version, but now the car is really turning into curve):

Alternations to the box-stock setup:

FRONT
=====
- AE 35WT Shock Oil (is about the same with box-stock)
- No sway-bar
- Remove urethane rebound bushing from shock-cap
- Camber -1 degree
- Droop #5 (measured under outer hinge-pin)
- Front suspension-block "D"
- Ride-height 5mm

REAR
=====
- AE 35WT Shock Oil (is about the same with box-stock)
- No sway-bar
- Remove urethane rebound bushing from shock-cap
- Camber -1 degree
- Droop #4 (measured under outer hinge-pin)
- Ride-height 5.5mm

Next things I will test:

- Test thinner shock oil (I would like to make car react faster when turning steering-wheel)
- maybe put swaybars back when changed thinner shock oil

EDIT:

here is additional data about my car:

- Front diff is replaced with one-way
- Motor: Novak SS5800 (only allowed brushless motor in our national 17T-class)
- Battery: IB4200 6-Cell
- Tires: LRP VTEC 27R preglued (only allowed tires in our class)
- Gears: 23T/81T

Last edited by TommyW; 05-22-2007 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:04 AM   #7610
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I never liked swaybars on my '05, but standing the front shocks up helps give turn-in
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:17 AM   #7611
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Also be aware a brushless motor, especially something faster than say a 13.5. They don't have anywhere near the same amount of drag brake than a brushed motor. This doesn't allow as much weight t be transfered to the front, hence less steering. I can't beleive the stock setup doesn't turn enough. In fact most of the time it feels like it transfers too much weight dipping in the front and too much steering.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:23 AM   #7612
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To get more strear ,
make the front upper suspension arm shorter
and place it to the rear on the bulkhead.
It will stear more agressive.
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:24 PM   #7613
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This may sound like a dumb question (again) but what front caster are most people running? Does it make much of a difference going from 2 to 4 degrees?

I'm currently running 4 degrees but maybe I need to go back to 2?

Thanks (Again!)

tom
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Old 05-22-2007, 12:59 PM   #7614
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Hi, ta05 owner.
Just saw this article from Tamiya:
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/info/070522.htm

Translate:
Note at time of TA05-R use


As for the RC car which is in the midst of travelling, the static electricity occurs always due to the friction of the pulley and the belt & the gear, etc. repeatedly the electrification and discharge is.

Depending upon the mechanic where as for the static electricity the electrification quantity changes with condition such as material constitution of the part of the meteorological condition travelling place car, uses there is a mechanic trouble and times when ノーコン is pulled up depending upon sudden discharge.

Around ahead it sold, being able to combine servo of the part constitution and metal gear specification the RC limited commodity ' TA05-R chassis kit ' in, when you use, the above-mentioned problem is easy occurring relatively depending upon condition was ascertained in our company investigation.
In order to prevent this,

* As for ITEM 53893 TA05 carbon lightweight ロワデッキ⇒ product guide this

We recommend that use it receives. The static electricity discharges from カーボンロワデッキ, it is possible to prevent the trouble of mechanic trouble ノーコン and the like.

Related topic:TA05-R chassis kit
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Old 05-23-2007, 01:47 AM   #7615
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hi im new i have a ta05r as well as a unbuild 30th ann. one. for the guys wondering aboutthe ta05ms it does have equal legnth belt cause the ms is the same as 30th ann porsche kit as far as i can see. ive compared belts from the r and the porsche kit and they car the same length but the porsche comes with black belts not aramid blue ones
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:12 AM   #7616
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ohh forgot the pics heres a pic of the cf chassis and top plate

and this has the motor mount and cantaleaver setup
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:33 AM   #7617
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ok sorry upon further looking the porsche has a shorter wheelbase
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:36 AM   #7618
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
I never liked swaybars on my '05, but standing the front shocks up helps give turn-in
I think you could very easily grip roll this car with the wrong setup, there are some seriously funky amounts of turn in on this car
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Old 05-23-2007, 03:10 AM   #7619
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ah_DaN
Hi, ta05 owner.
Just saw this article from Tamiya:
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/info/070522.htm

Translate:
Note at time of TA05-R use


As for the RC car which is in the midst of travelling, the static electricity occurs always due to the friction of the pulley and the belt & the gear, etc. repeatedly the electrification and discharge is.

Depending upon the mechanic where as for the static electricity the electrification quantity changes with condition such as material constitution of the part of the meteorological condition travelling place car, uses there is a mechanic trouble and times when ノーコン is pulled up depending upon sudden discharge.

Around ahead it sold, being able to combine servo of the part constitution and metal gear specification the RC limited commodity ' TA05-R chassis kit ' in, when you use, the above-mentioned problem is easy occurring relatively depending upon condition was ascertained in our company investigation.
In order to prevent this,

* As for ITEM 53893 TA05 carbon lightweight ロワデッキ⇒ product guide this

We recommend that use it receives. The static electricity discharges from カーボンロワデッキ, it is possible to prevent the trouble of mechanic trouble ノーコン and the like.

Related topic:TA05-R chassis kit
I've tried my best to understand this.

Is it saying something like "static electricity can cause problems with the servo on a TA05-R in certain conditions, to prevent it please use the 53893 optional carbon tub"?

If so that might explain the bizarre servo centring problem I had on mine a few weeks ago.
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Old 05-23-2007, 03:14 AM   #7620
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsyrc
This may sound like a dumb question (again) but what front caster are most people running? Does it make much of a difference going from 2 to 4 degrees?

I'm currently running 4 degrees but maybe I need to go back to 2?

Thanks (Again!)

tom
I found that the 2 degree hubs gave less steering all round the track than the 4 degrees, definitely not the increase in turn in I was hoping for, for me the 2 degree hubs will stay in the pit box.
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