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Old 04-29-2007, 08:51 PM   #7381
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Default PENGUIN CHASSIS RELEASED !!!!

I've been waiting for this one. I will be converting my 05R after my TCS race (assuming I don't go to the finals)

I was waiting to see how this one compared to the others (Kawada, 3Racing, etc....) I know one of you guys mentioned you were testing this chassis, have any feedback?

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/tamiya/p2020.html
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Old 04-29-2007, 09:00 PM   #7382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double Quattro
I've been waiting for this one. I will be converting my 05R after my TCS race (assuming I don't go to the finals)

I was waiting to see how this one compared to the others (Kawanda, 3Racing, etc....) I know one of you guys mentioned you were testing this chassis, have any feedback?

http://www.penguinrc.com/products/tamiya/p2020.html
Hi, why not wait for the Ta05ms its also with graphite chassis. Tamiya sells the chassis separate also. But I think its not out yet.
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Old 04-30-2007, 12:43 AM   #7383
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Originally Posted by SuperEk4
Hi, why not wait for the Ta05ms its also with graphite chassis. Tamiya sells the chassis separate also. But I think its not out yet.
Very true indeed !!!

I would definetly go with the Tamiya MS chassis kit if and when it becomes available. However, it may end up costing as much as the MS kit seeing that the bulkheads and motor mount will not be compatable with the 05R parts.

But any CF upgrade kit they release for the TA05 will be better than any aftermarket stuff. Then I can race GT1 next year!
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:01 AM   #7384
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Hey i am thinking of buying the TA-05R but i live in australia and i cant seem to find the price does any one know the price of this car? i am also thinking of buying th T2R but i have to choose which car. any help on both of these topics would be great
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:00 AM   #7385
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Bit annoyed today...

I have always used blue threadlock on the metal-to-metal fittings on my cars, I have always found that hand tightening alone isn't enough to keep them from working loose - and for the first time I have ended up with jammed parts and stripped screw heads!

Not sure what it is about the TA-05 that has caused this - I think it might have something to do with the aftermarket stainless steel screws I have fitted, rather than the black steel kit screws I have always had in other cars.

Anyway, I now have a car that you cannot change the suspension blocks on (kit ones are working OK so not such a big problem right now, but it means that the 1E block and roll centre shims I was going to experiment with will stay in their packs for now!). Unfortunately when I need to change some parts I will be looking at the following scenarios...

At best: New screws after slotting/soldering an allen key to them.

At middling: new chassis after hacking it away (at least the plastic tub is cheap)

At worst: New suspension blocks, new motor mount, and possibly a new spur adaptor as well if that is jammed too!

Bugger.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:19 AM   #7386
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Hi everyone, I am now officially an 05R owner! I'm halfway through the build.
Does anyone have any tips? I'm going to setup like the manual says. I hope thats a good starting point for outdoor asphalt.
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:53 AM   #7387
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The manual setting is pretty close...the only thing I mess with is droop and arm spacing to start off.
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:14 AM   #7388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
Bit annoyed today...

I have always used blue threadlock on the metal-to-metal fittings on my cars, I have always found that hand tightening alone isn't enough to keep them from working loose - and for the first time I have ended up with jammed parts and stripped screw heads!

Not sure what it is about the TA-05 that has caused this - I think it might have something to do with the aftermarket stainless steel screws I have fitted, rather than the black steel kit screws I have always had in other cars.

Anyway, I now have a car that you cannot change the suspension blocks on (kit ones are working OK so not such a big problem right now, but it means that the 1E block and roll centre shims I was going to experiment with will stay in their packs for now!). Unfortunately when I need to change some parts I will be looking at the following scenarios...

At best: New screws after slotting/soldering an allen key to them.

At middling: new chassis after hacking it away (at least the plastic tub is cheap)

At worst: New suspension blocks, new motor mount, and possibly a new spur adaptor as well if that is jammed too!

Bugger.
Quick update on this. Took the Dremel to the car this afternoon. Three screws slotted, couple of small cuts on the chassis (which I will replace to be safe), otherwise no other damage.

Looking at the screws I had put far too much threadlock on and they had glued themselves to the plastic chassis.

Silly mistake, thankfully it will only cost about a tenner to set right.
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:19 AM   #7389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge
Quick update on this. Took the Dremel to the car this afternoon. Three screws slotted, couple of small cuts on the chassis (which I will replace to be safe), otherwise no other damage.

Looking at the screws I had put far too much threadlock on and they had glued themselves to the plastic chassis.

Silly mistake, thankfully it will only cost about a tenner to set right.
I also use thread lock in certain spots on my TA05. But what I do is: just barely wet the screws with just a "dot" of thread lock. Then after that, I turn the screws between my fingers. So by the time I get done, you can barely tell that there is any thread lock on the screws. They just appear to be slightly wet.

This serves two purposes. 1. it makes sure that I don't over do it on the thread lock. 2. it helps the thread lock dry faster.

I use this method all the time, even on my nitro car's screws, including the engine mount screws. So I figure if that little bit of thread lock is enough to hold a nitro together, its definitely enough for an electric car.
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:38 AM   #7390
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Good tip Darkseid, I'll do that from now on.
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Old 04-30-2007, 10:02 AM   #7391
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Put a small amount of ceramic grease on the screw will also help with the issue of screw binding to chassis. Especially if you're using it on carbon fiber.
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Old 04-30-2007, 04:42 PM   #7392
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HI All

Has anyone got a price for the TA05MS yet ?

I just found it on rainbowten's site & it said price was going to be 69800 Yen ( about $734.00 AUD ).

Is this true ?

See ya
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Old 04-30-2007, 04:57 PM   #7393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Double Quattro
Very true indeed !!!

I would definetly go with the Tamiya MS chassis kit if and when it becomes available. However, it may end up costing as much as the MS kit seeing that the bulkheads and motor mount will not be compatable with the 05R parts.

But any CF upgrade kit they release for the TA05 will be better than any aftermarket stuff. Then I can race GT1 next year!

Yes u r rite the bulkhead & motor mount may not fit. Have u heard of 3racing? They make good GF conversion too
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Old 04-30-2007, 05:12 PM   #7394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLUE 2
HI All

Has anyone got a price for the TA05MS yet ?

I just found it on rainbowten's site & it said price was going to be 69800 Yen ( about $734.00 AUD ).

Is this true ?

See ya
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Yes, that's right!
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Old 05-01-2007, 01:04 AM   #7395
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R10 will generally sell at the RRP price. RC-Champ should have a significantly better pricing on the TA05MS.
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