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Old 07-15-2005, 06:50 PM   #691
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2 pcs, 0.3 x 10mm for each diff, one on each side between the bearing and the diff.
btw... did some initial testing of the car with a V2 19t, the car turns on a dime ...nice and stable ! ....next to see how it handles with a 7T.
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Old 07-15-2005, 06:54 PM   #692
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Why use the spacers for diffs?
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Old 07-15-2005, 07:22 PM   #693
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Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
Why use the spacers for diffs?
Shimming is one of the most important things you can do to ensure a smooth drivetrain. If all parts on the car can vibrate while moving, energy is lost and the drivetrain wont feel smooth.

Morever, in this case, shimming also ensures that the front and rear diffs are positioned properly to ensure that it does not bind to either side of the gearboxes.
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:04 PM   #694
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Oh, so do you use the spacers instead of shimming? (Shimming = sanding?)
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Old 07-15-2005, 09:40 PM   #695
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Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
Oh, so do you use the spacers instead of shimming? (Shimming = sanding?)
shimming is another term for using spacers, no sanding.
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Old 07-15-2005, 10:32 PM   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostfit
btw... did some initial testing of the car with a V2 19t, the car turns on a dime ...nice and stable ! ....next to see how it handles with a 7T.
What pinion/ratio did you use for it?
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Old 07-16-2005, 12:26 AM   #697
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are there any Aluminum CVD 46mm for the TA05 or is there just a steel CVD? The aluminum one is a swing shaft so I guess its not good. I was told to put steel in front and aluminum in the back but wasn't sure if there was a aluminum cvd 46mm.. If u guys have the part number please share
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:35 PM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostfit
2 pcs, 0.3 x 10mm for each diff, one on each side between the bearing and the diff.
I did 0.3/0.4mm on diff, and 0.3/0.3 on center pulley. Combination left about 0.05mm play on diff and almost no play on center pulley.
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:38 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
are there any Aluminum CVD 46mm for the TA05 or is there just a steel CVD? The aluminum one is a swing shaft so I guess its not good. I was told to put steel in front and aluminum in the back but wasn't sure if there was a aluminum cvd 46mm.. If u guys have the part number please share
There is no aluminum wheel axle, only aluminum swing shaft. With aliminum wheel axle you probably got a race stopper if you knock on wall.

And it's true that using steel black swing shaft on front is better, since you usually crash on front, not rear...
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Old 07-16-2005, 01:53 PM   #700
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I bring my TA05 to track for the first time and after half day practice it's club racing. MY TA05 was using LW suspension with some options/mods. You can find my car in attachment.

Indeed, just like other post said, TA05 is even better turner than 415. It's kind amazing since this is just a mid level car, but for me it run as good as 415 did, if not better (well, I'm not a good driver, still very novice in racing). The setting is quite easy to find and any change show the effect clearly. Definitely a great car in its price range.

Beside chassis flex (well, it depend on driving style, some like flex some doesn't), the only major problem for me is car weight. With almost all Ti screws (only 7 didn't be replaced), my TA05 still 1570g in ready to race condition (car, battery, body, wheel, AMBrc all on). Novak SS ESC is heavier than usual ESC, but still it's 50g over our local rule (1520g with everything on, ready to race). I guess after I replace damper tower with CF one it might save a bit, but seems will still heavier than 1520, where BD/FK05 all very underweight.

The 2nd major problem for me is: there is no spool yet. My driving style is very much rely on spool, with current diff I can't do brake-turn somehow. I'm going to mod one of my diff to spool, see if it works.

The drivetrain is super smooth and easy-access bulkhead 100% great design for diff/belt maintainance. It took me only 5mins to pop the top bulkhead and adjust belt tension, way-way-way easier than 415.

Also a note: the roll bar is 100% must needed parts for TA05. Because the chassis is wider, in 180' turn it's easy to hear chassis scratch on ground, which cause traction lost. I forget to bring my roll bar today and it's a disaster for me, I need to use some setting which I don't like to prevent the car over roll in 180' turn (or, with loosy rear in end of 180' turn), and even so I still feel car is too floating than it should has. So remember to get roll bar set if you hasn't order TA05 yet.

That's about it for now, it's almost 4am now and I very need some good sleep (race finish at 12am.. haha)

edit: almost forgot to note, the rear spring is AE blue, which is harder than TAMIYA yellow, that's what I did to counter over-roll without roll bar: harder spring, incline damper. Not a good setting but at least rear won't draft away at end of 180' turn.
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dscn4805s.jpg  
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:04 PM   #701
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Which 7 wern't replaced? Do you have part numbers for them? So I guess the TA05 Ti Screw Kit dosn't come with all that you need...
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:17 PM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
Which 7 wern't replaced? Do you have part numbers for them? So I guess the TA05 Ti Screw Kit dosn't come with all that you need...
I can count only 5 not switched to Ti.... the one outer servo mount screw (screw needs a very low-profile head, like the one included), two motor screws, and the two diff screws, but you can't really replace those anyway, so really only 3...
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:27 PM   #703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
I did 0.3/0.4mm on diff, and 0.3/0.3 on center pulley. Combination left about 0.05mm play on diff and almost no play on center pulley.
What is the part # for the shims you used on the pulley that were 0.3mm
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Old 07-16-2005, 02:55 PM   #704
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So which shim spacing is better, ttso or jam-ehz? lol..
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Old 07-16-2005, 05:05 PM   #705
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Heh.. dunno, just depends.. I could probably slip another .1 in there for fine tuning, but the .3's on both sides make the most difference either way. Even when it comes to shimming axles, you'd expect the same mm to shim on each axle, but you'd be surprised.. consistency of making the parts can make a difference.
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