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Old 04-10-2007, 07:29 AM   #7006
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Here it is ... post #4549 Is there any aftermarket mod that's available that serves the same purpose.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...70#post2489974

Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
I have mod FK04 belt tensioner (#303070) into TA05. It works quite well. Those who have belt problem might like to give it a try.

The belt tensioner mount is TA05 servo mount, secured on top bulkhead.
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Old 04-10-2007, 08:03 AM   #7007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzle
Here it is ... post #4549 Is there any aftermarket mod that's available that serves the same purpose.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...70#post2489974
bradir, try searching the Tech Racing site i'm not so sure if they are the one who have the belt tensioner for the TA-05 but i know that i've already seen one in the net and the mounting is not on the bulkheads but on the center plate
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:25 PM   #7008
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Originally Posted by Hebiki
two Lims dont make a right! i heard nospoom is coming down for reedy. you gonna join us? i might be running this car.
Bro...I wish I could be there in time...but timing is not right. I be there a week before the event on a family vacation. I'll look you up. PM me your contact.
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:29 PM   #7009
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Hey guys
Changing the sweep of my front arms on 05R and installed a front 1D suspension mount and while installing the rear 1B suspension mount I noticed the mounts 3mm spacer will not flush with the chassis when snugging the 3x10mm screws down. What is the solution so as not increase or decrease the front kick up.
Thanks in advance
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:33 PM   #7010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctouringracer
Hey guys
Changing the sweep of my front arms on 05R and installed a front 1D suspension mount and while installing the rear 1B suspension mount I noticed the mounts 3mm spacer will not flush with the chassis when snugging the 3x10mm screws down. What is the solution so as not increase or decrease the front kick up.
Thanks in advance
you have a couple of solutions:

1. dremel a flat spot on your 1B block to accomodate the spacer.
2. change the blocks you are using from 1D-1B to 1C-1A. (use the bridge block or the stock plastic).

chrislim: ygpm
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:35 PM   #7011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctouringracer
Hey guys
Changing the sweep of my front arms on 05R and installed a front 1D suspension mount and while installing the rear 1B suspension mount I noticed the mounts 3mm spacer will not flush with the chassis when snugging the 3x10mm screws down. What is the solution so as not increase or decrease the front kick up.
Thanks in advance
If you're using a 1-B suspension block, and in general, a flipped block that is not of the X-series, then it's not 3mm that you need to put under it, but 5mm of spacers, in order to get back to the original hinge pin height.

Also I agree with Hebiki, dremel a flat spot on the two spacers so that they sit flush.
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:37 PM   #7012
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My understanding of the TA05 is you have to use the bridge mounts, you can't mount a normal suspension mount upside down and then add spacers like on a 415MSX
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:40 PM   #7013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
My understanding of the TA05 is you have to use the bridge mounts, you can't mount a normal suspension mount upside down and then add spacers like on a 415MSX
see the post above yours. but basically, any 1X series has a flat spot (1X, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD). then there's the regular 1A block (no flat spot) and the 1A bridge block.

the stock plastic/graphite reinforced pieces are the same width as the "A" block.

a DREMEL works wonders!
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Old 04-11-2007, 06:52 PM   #7014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamiyarcracer
we ran the TA05 in a 24 hour enduro. We used the Aramid belts. we ran a Novak GTB with an 8.5 motor. We went through 4 belts. The first 3 in about 68 hours time. the last one went the rest of the 24 hours. What we found is tightening the rear belt so it had no deflextion allowed it to work for a longer period of time. (about 3 or 4 click tighter than we would normally set it)
How do you get 68 hours time in 24 hours
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Old 04-11-2007, 07:40 PM   #7015
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meh, I always ran the 1A bridge mounts and did my changes on the other side, didn't feel the need to swap it out, and it always worked well.
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Old 04-11-2007, 08:37 PM   #7016
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Exactly...in almost 2 years running this car I never felt the need to change the roll centers via the suspension mounts. I have also just changed the outer suspension mount to suit my liking as far as toe and sweep are concerned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
meh, I always ran the 1A bridge mounts and did my changes on the other side, didn't feel the need to swap it out, and it always worked well.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:31 PM   #7017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
see the post above yours. but basically, any 1X series has a flat spot (1X, 1XA, 1XB, 1XC, 1XD). then there's the regular 1A block (no flat spot) and the 1A bridge block.

the stock plastic/graphite reinforced pieces are the same width as the "A" block.

a DREMEL works wonders!

So what blocks fit and/or are people generally using with their TA05? I'm looking at picking one up and want to grab the pivot blocks.
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Old 04-11-2007, 09:42 PM   #7018
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I ran 1A's all round with standard suspension, and 1A's front, 1A / 1D rear when running lightweight suspension.
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Old 04-12-2007, 02:29 AM   #7019
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Hi, have u guys tried tamiya B3 tires on Ta05r?it wear out so damm fast n skid a lot. I just install front 1way drive. Its a lot faster but skid easily. Any tips?

I removed the front roll bar but use the thinnest on the rear. I am using RZ super stock 23T
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Old 04-12-2007, 03:03 AM   #7020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperEk4
Hi, have u guys tried tamiya B3 tires on Ta05r?it wear out so damm fast n skid a lot. I just install front 1way drive. Its a lot faster but skid easily. Any tips?

I removed the front roll bar but use the thinnest on the rear. I am using RZ super stock 23T
Unless it's a really warm day outside, I'd use type A's!
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