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Old 03-12-2007, 01:41 AM   #6796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akuhon
Thanks for the info, it helps a lot

I'm using stock suspension arm set (not the Lt. Wt. Reversible)
How about caster, have you ever measured ?

ANd also, what about anti-squat by adding suspension mount spacer on the front part of front susp. block ?? Do we need this ? What's the effect ?

Rgds,
It's so weird though...that knuckle flip thing was mentioned only in the TA04 Pro manual...even though the 414 suspension has been included in just about every TC Tamiya released since then. And I think flipping the knuckle LOWERS the axle instead of rising it, but I don't have my car with me right now...I'm at school

I use 4-degree blocks. I don't think Tamiya ever made any c-hubs with a lower degree of caster than that (for the 414-style suspension anyway). They had 6-degree blocks but I find that the 4-degree works best for me.

Anti-squat is done by raising the front-rear suspension block...I've never used it, but it's supposed to free up the rear end in the corner.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:46 AM   #6797
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How do guys gear a brushless tao5 using only tamiya spur and pinion? I heard you need to gear a novak 3.5 around 10.0 or lower (of course depending on track size)?
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:11 AM   #6798
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17 Pinion, 70 Spur will give you 9.26
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:51 AM   #6799
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Well after 4 straight weeks of racing the TA05 I finally broke a part. The king pin. Not the greatest part to break bc it requires also replacing the knuckle but hey - not so bad for 4 weeks of racing. The interesting things is it happened after putting the p-dub bumper on.
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:05 AM   #6800
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Pretty much all I have ever broken too (besides ball cups wearing out and popping off) Usually happens caused by the bottom king pin coming out, causing more strain on the top, one hit at that point, and well, yeah.

Keep spares, the knuckle and king pins should cost $15 max.
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:05 AM   #6801
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Thats the only thing I have done in 18 months, king pin and knuckle.
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:12 AM   #6802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P956LH
It's so weird though...that knuckle flip thing was mentioned only in the TA04 Pro manual...even though the 414 suspension has been included in just about every TC Tamiya released since then. And I think flipping the knuckle LOWERS the axle instead of rising it, but I don't have my car with me right now...I'm at school

I use 4-degree blocks. I don't think Tamiya ever made any c-hubs with a lower degree of caster than that (for the 414-style suspension anyway). They had 6-degree blocks but I find that the 4-degree works best for me.
Your partially correct. In the TA04 manual they do have you use the C2 (Left) and C1 (Right) and that starts the car out with the axles higher in the C carrier. But where your mistaken is that in the TA05 manual they call for the opposite. They list the C1 (Left) and C2 (Right) and that makes the axle lower in the C carrier. If you want to raise the axle flip them over and use the C2 (Left) and C1 (Right).

And yes in the standard suspension they only have the 4 and 6 degree carriers, but you can put pro-dive into the front and add 1-2mm shims under the front suspensions rear suspension mount and you will have a very similar feel as a 2 degree carrier.
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:39 AM   #6803
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A little confused.

Ok I'm looking to get my CVDS / Universals. The manuel says 46 mm shafts. The TA-05R says it comes with 48 mm shafts. Is this because of the Reverible suspension ?

Thanks

C
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:13 AM   #6804
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yes it is
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:14 AM   #6805
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Yes, it is, although if you use the X-blocks keep with the 46mm's..
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:05 PM   #6806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Creations

And yes in the standard suspension they only have the 4 and 6 degree carriers,
Yuo said std suspension arm (and not the LW Reversible arm).
What part number .....
Does it come with 2 kind of hub carriers (C-hub, right ??) in the box ?
Or are those hop-up option ?
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:35 PM   #6807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaxRacer
A little confused.

Ok I'm looking to get my CVDS / Universals. The manuel says 46 mm shafts. The TA-05R says it comes with 48 mm shafts. Is this because of the Reverible suspension ?

Thanks

C
You won't need the 48mm shafts. Most people are running a narrower wheel base. 46mm will work with all the set-ups. Stick with the 46mm.
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:37 PM   #6808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
17 Pinion, 70 Spur will give you 9.26
9.26 is still too high. Maybe for very big tracks its ok for gtb 3.5. I think I need 105/22 0.6 module but i'm not sure if tamiya makes 22Tpinion 0.6 module and if it would fit the motor mount.
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:57 PM   #6809
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Hi,

With the 105 .4 spur a 33t .4 pinion gives you the stock 7.16 ratio. 22t would give you 10.74, not so sure that's a good idea? Still new at this stuff myself.

Jeff
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Old 03-14-2007, 02:32 PM   #6810
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reading through the thread, didn't find much of any conclusive info, so I'll post here for more specific talk about this problem:

Running a mostly stock TA05, just has universals up front, and aluminum diff halves up front (kept breaking stuff up there).

I just put on Tamiya B3 tires, medium inserts, new Tamiya porsche carerra body, carbon fiber wing, to get ready for the TCS race this weekend.

Well, when taking right turns, the car either does one of two things:

Really has a hard time turning, takes the turn wide OR
turns really sharp, and spins out. I can sometimes control this by counter-steering the oversteer and getting a half a foot drift and keep going.

I need to solve this by the race, its really hurting my lap times.

When I try to look at tweak by lifting the car up with a hobby knife on both sides, its pretty close. I set my camber to 2 deg in the front, 1 deg in the rear. At first I thought it was some glue on the tire, but all of that is now worn off and its still doing it.

Troy recommended making the rear lateral link longer by bumping it farther out one hole on the diff cover to help solve it. Any other ideas? I don't think I'll be able to practice with the car again on the track until race day, unfortunately, so anything I can check/do at home would be very helpful.

Thanks,

Rick
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