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Old 03-08-2007, 09:17 AM   #6766
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Originally Posted by sim600
How do you guys set your droop on the TA-05? I found my chassis not very flat at the bottom and I can never figure out where to lay the droop gauge against it. The droop settings seem to depend on where the gauge touches the chassis. There are slight bulges around the screw holes. How do you guys do it?
rather then using a droop gauge can you just use a ride height guage and measure up travel? I know with the curved chassis a ride height gauge can be a pain but I would try that.

Last edited by or8ital; 03-08-2007 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:06 AM   #6767
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Originally Posted by sim600
How do you guys set your droop on the TA-05? I found my chassis not very flat at the bottom and I can never figure out where to lay the droop gauge against it. The droop settings seem to depend on where the gauge touches the chassis. There are slight bulges around the screw holes. How do you guys do it?
I'm with Or8ital on this one. I used to try to use a droop gauge, but found it completely inconsistent with the curves of the chassis.

Just set your ride height, then raise the chassis up to where the suspension is fully extended, but the tires are still touching the surface.(this would also be a good time to make sure your droop is equal side to side) The difference between the ride height and the raised height is the droop.

This is what people are refering to when the say that they are "X"mm over ride height. With "X" being the number difference between the ride height and raised height.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-08-2007, 02:00 PM   #6768
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I have just built my TA05 and was following some of the advice from earlier months on this thread for droop and was really suprised at how high up that meant the arms were. Following the "measure from the ground to the top of the axle" method it was clearly way, way too high compared to my TC3.

I too was using my TC3 guage and realized the differences in the chassis and lack of a good place to measure on the TA05 required a different approach.

I just set it even with 5mm height between ground and the bottom of the tip of the arm with the wheels off.

So this has left me with 2 questions:
1. How does the droop effect performance (seems like you would want contact/traction when the car leans, why do we want to limit it?)?
2. Just how sentitive are these settings?
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Old 03-08-2007, 02:45 PM   #6769
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Thanks for the help, guys. That explains all those people squatting down to stare at table edges. Haha. I'll be joining them now.
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:00 PM   #6770
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P956LH
I use the standard suspension too...27-turn stock in a parking lot track, on Sorex 32Rs with medium Type-B inserts...I set the front and rear droop to be "5" on the Associated droop gauge, then set the ride height to about 5mm. I use Much-More 400W oil (although I think lighter oil would be better) with 2-hole pistons all around, with Tamiya blue short spring up front, and Tamiya yellow short spring on the back. The car used to understeer with that setup, but I flipped the knuckles around (I have C1 on the right and C2 on the left now) and put used the forward hole in the front uprights (less Ackermann effect). The car has so much steering now...and I don't use any kick up/anti-dive...all hingepins are flat relative to the chassis. I use the second-longest camber link in front, with 5mm spacers, and the second-longest camber link with 2.5mm spacers on the rear. I don't run arm sweep either.
Thanks mate,

I'll try it .... but I think I will re-build it again ... then make some adjustment step by step .... but i'll note about your C1 C2 swap and ackermann setting ....

Rgds,
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Old 03-08-2007, 08:31 PM   #6771
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I have been running my knuckles inverted (c1-c2) since day 1...much better steering feel for me.
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Old 03-08-2007, 11:08 PM   #6772
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Has any of you guys here successfully installed a Novak super-sport brushless system (4300) in their TA05? If so, could you kindly post some pics please. I searched the entire thread and just found a pic of a GTB installed.

Thanks in advance!
Trust me, it wont' fit unless you feel like cutting the tub or the esc. I made a small platform out of spare lexan, so that the esc sits just above the lip of the tub. I'm not hardcore, so the higher CG doesn't bother me.
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Old 03-09-2007, 09:55 AM   #6773
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Originally Posted by scotwithonly1t
Trust me, it wont' fit unless you feel like cutting the tub or the esc. I made a small platform out of spare lexan, so that the esc sits just above the lip of the tub. I'm not hardcore, so the higher CG doesn't bother me.
Could you post some pics pls?
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:49 AM   #6774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceBucks
So this has left me with 2 questions:
1. How does the droop effect performance (seems like you would want contact/traction when the car leans, why do we want to limit it?)?
2. Just how sentitive are these settings?
I'm no set up expert(although the TA05 can make you feel like you are), but I'll take a shot at answering this for you.

1. The droop effects how much the car can roll in corners. If you have a lot of droop, the car will roll more. What effect does this have on handling... well in my experience, the more drop you have at one end of the car, the more traction you have at that end. So if you add more droop to the rear, you will have more traction at the rear. But too much droop, and you'll start rubbing your chassis at the sides as you corner. Up front, with the TA05, you generally keep the droop less than what you have in the rear. The car steers so hard as is, that most people don't want any more traction up front. At least when running on carpet.

2. How sensitive is it... well again, that depends on whether your running on asphault or carpet. On asphault, almost ever setting seems to be less sensitive that it is on carpet. That doesn't mean you can not set stuff right, it just means that it wont kill your handling if your slightly off. On carpet with foams on the other hand, you MUST make sure that if nothing else, your droop is equal side to side. Other wise, your look at a car that will steer better to one side than the other. And from what I've seen with my car, this setting is VERY sensitive. I check mine after ever race when racing carpet on foams.


Now as I said, I'm no expert, but this is my understanding of how this stuff works. Anyone with any better info, please feel free to chime in.
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:51 AM   #6775
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Originally Posted by sim600
...That explains all those people squatting down to stare at table edges. Haha.
Yep, thats pretty much what all of us are doing. I know its more fun to assume people are just nuts when they're staring at the edge of a table, but in this case it actually has a purpose.

Oh, and just as a side note, this method is even better if you can find someone at the track who will let you use their set up board(not the setup tools, just the perfectly flat board) while setting your droop. Cause sometimes tables and workbenches can be a little warped without it being visually evident.
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:45 AM   #6776
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Originally Posted by Core Creations
I have been running my knuckles inverted (c1-c2) since day 1...much better steering feel for me.
Wat is the different between c1 & c2?
How does inverting c1 with c2 affect the steering?
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:07 PM   #6777
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I'll add that droop also effects weight transfer. This can make or break a setup and most cars are very sensitive to droop settings. Most people run less droop in the front as they do in the back. I'll explain. Droop allows weight transfer... Let's say your car pushes when you let off power going into a turn. Chances are you have too little droop in the rear and it doesn't allow the rear of the car to lift and transfer weight to the front of the car. If you add droop in the rear it will allow the rear to lift more off power and transfer weight to the front. This will result in more weight being transferred to the front and more steering coming off power. Now in the front the same theory applies. If your on power and the car pushes...you probably have too much droop int eh front..allowing more weight transfer to the rear than you need. If you remove some droop the car will lift less in the front on power and keep the weight over the front of the car resulting in more steering on power.

Always make sure the droop is equal side to side...if tnot the car will most likely spin on and off power more to one side!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
I'm no set up expert(although the TA05 can make you feel like you are), but I'll take a shot at answering this for you.

1. The droop effects how much the car can roll in corners. If you have a lot of droop, the car will roll more. What effect does this have on handling... well in my experience, the more drop you have at one end of the car, the more traction you have at that end. So if you add more droop to the rear, you will have more traction at the rear. But too much droop, and you'll start rubbing your chassis at the sides as you corner. Up front, with the TA05, you generally keep the droop less than what you have in the rear. The car steers so hard as is, that most people don't want any more traction up front. At least when running on carpet.

2. How sensitive is it... well again, that depends on whether your running on asphault or carpet. On asphault, almost ever setting seems to be less sensitive that it is on carpet. That doesn't mean you can not set stuff right, it just means that it wont kill your handling if your slightly off. On carpet with foams on the other hand, you MUST make sure that if nothing else, your droop is equal side to side. Other wise, your look at a car that will steer better to one side than the other. And from what I've seen with my car, this setting is VERY sensitive. I check mine after ever race when racing carpet on foams.


Now as I said, I'm no expert, but this is my understanding of how this stuff works. Anyone with any better info, please feel free to chime in.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:16 PM   #6778
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I'm not exactly sure of the theory behind lowering or raisng the axles within the C carrier...but I understand thats what it does. With them inverted (opposite of the manual) it raises the axle within the carrier. For me it made the car both more aggressive and consistent.
Quote:
Originally Posted by diha
Wat is the different between c1 & c2?
How does inverting c1 with c2 affect the steering?
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Old 03-09-2007, 10:43 PM   #6779
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Yep..the Yok rings are much better than the stock rings. I still use the stock balls though. I've gone to using almost no grease on the balls...very very little. And then I pack as much thick AW grease in the thrust bearing as I can. My diffs are on about 3-4 months without a rebuild and are still really good.
So is it the thrust bearing that really goes bad? I run in parking lots, and as clean as you can get them, they're never that clean. With an open diff, I find that they get gritty after a day of running. I've given up keeping up with the maint on them, and haven't felt the ill effects of a bad diff (I just may not be good enough to feel it). Will running little to no grease on the diff balls preserve them from dirt getting attracted by grease?
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Old 03-09-2007, 11:28 PM   #6780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Creations
I'm not exactly sure of the theory behind lowering or raisng the axles within the C carrier...but I understand thats what it does. With them inverted (opposite of the manual) it raises the axle within the carrier. For me it made the car both more aggressive and consistent.
Hi Core,
Thanks.
I'll do it right away.
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