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Old 03-05-2007, 10:40 AM   #6751
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Yep..the Yok rings are much better than the stock rings. I still use the stock balls though. I've gone to using almost no grease on the balls...very very little. And then I pack as much thick AW grease in the thrust bearing as I can. My diffs are on about 3-4 months without a rebuild and are still really good.
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Old 03-05-2007, 08:43 PM   #6752
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Stupid question and sorry if it has been answered, but I couldnt find it quick going through the hundreds of pages.

I am in the process of building a car for one of my buddies. He had the stock diff up front, but wanted to put the "spool" in. When I got it assembled and in, there was a ton of slack in the driveshafts. Enough that when turned to full lock, the shafts could actually back out of the axles and become lodged. Do you have to run longer shafts with the spool, or can you use some foam spacers to space it out enough? I took the foam pieces that he had in the diff and tried using them, but there was still too much slack.. Did I just put it together wrong? This is my first Tamiya car to build, but I have built many others before, so its not like I am a total newb, just a Tamiya newb!!

Thanks in advance guys!!!
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:16 PM   #6753
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If your gonna run the spool..run universals.
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:17 PM   #6754
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Talking Dogbones!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94_snake
Stupid question and sorry if it has been answered, but I couldnt find it quick going through the hundreds of pages.

I am in the process of building a car for one of my buddies. He had the stock diff up front, but wanted to put the "spool" in. When I got it assembled and in, there was a ton of slack in the driveshafts. Enough that when turned to full lock, the shafts could actually back out of the axles and become lodged. Do you have to run longer shafts with the spool, or can you use some foam spacers to space it out enough? I took the foam pieces that he had in the diff and tried using them, but there was still too much slack.. Did I just put it together wrong? This is my first Tamiya car to build, but I have built many others before, so its not like I am a total newb, just a Tamiya newb!!

Thanks in advance guys!!!
More than likely you will have to switch to universals. But, if there is some way to find out, somebody might know? Are there any longer dogbones that came with the TL01,TT01, TA04 etc. etc. that might be a little longer that will work on the TA05?Spools are generally hard on the drivetrain especially at full lock. Even with universals, the joints get a lot of abuse !
Just my 2$
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:18 PM   #6755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94_snake
Stupid question and sorry if it has been answered, but I couldnt find it quick going through the hundreds of pages.

I am in the process of building a car for one of my buddies. He had the stock diff up front, but wanted to put the "spool" in. When I got it assembled and in, there was a ton of slack in the driveshafts. Enough that when turned to full lock, the shafts could actually back out of the axles and become lodged. Do you have to run longer shafts with the spool, or can you use some foam spacers to space it out enough? I took the foam pieces that he had in the diff and tried using them, but there was still too much slack.. Did I just put it together wrong? This is my first Tamiya car to build, but I have built many others before, so its not like I am a total newb, just a Tamiya newb!!

Thanks in advance guys!!!
Been there, it's IMPOSSIBLE to run spool without universals. Dog bones will crunch and grind and cause all sorts of mayhem.

Don't do it!
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:40 PM   #6756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94_snake
Stupid question and sorry if it has been answered, but I couldnt find it quick going through the hundreds of pages.

I am in the process of building a car for one of my buddies. He had the stock diff up front, but wanted to put the "spool" in. When I got it assembled and in, there was a ton of slack in the driveshafts. Enough that when turned to full lock, the shafts could actually back out of the axles and become lodged. Do you have to run longer shafts with the spool, or can you use some foam spacers to space it out enough? I took the foam pieces that he had in the diff and tried using them, but there was still too much slack.. Did I just put it together wrong? This is my first Tamiya car to build, but I have built many others before, so its not like I am a total newb, just a Tamiya newb!!

Thanks in advance guys!!!
LIke others said, universals are a big help. But, you could change your blocks to something like 1xd, which would shorten the width of the car, thus bring the dog bones much closer.
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:48 PM   #6757
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Default Need asphalt setup

Dear all TA05 users,

Would you like to share the setup for asphalt race ? about 30 degress C asphalt temp .... I have found difficulties in setting the chassis...
I use carbon molded part (chassis, etc ...) and std susp. arm. (should I change with the long reversible version ?)

I need :
1. rebound stroke
2. TRF damper setting (oil wt, piston holes, and spring)
3. Also, do you use any 'suspension mount spacer' front and rear to get low CG for the chassis ?

Thanks alot ,
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:12 AM   #6758
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Thanks for the help guys.. Guess he needs to buy some more parts..LOL..
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:19 AM   #6759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94_snake
Thanks for the help guys.. Guess he needs to buy some more parts..LOL..
We all do... its called an addiction to r/c cars and years of tinkering LMAO
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:08 AM   #6760
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does anyone know what kind of screws the ta05r come with?
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:11 AM   #6761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacific17
does anyone know what kind of screws the ta05r come with?
Standard


I decided I don't need the R, my car is hopped up as I want it anyway, only thing I'd miss is reversable suspension which for me, makes it too fragile!
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:16 AM   #6762
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yeah mine too.. but im tempted to get the r version.. lol..
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Old 03-07-2007, 08:24 PM   #6763
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Has any of you guys here successfully installed a Novak super-sport brushless system (4300) in their TA05? If so, could you kindly post some pics please. I searched the entire thread and just found a pic of a GTB installed.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-08-2007, 05:50 AM   #6764
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How do you guys set your droop on the TA-05? I found my chassis not very flat at the bottom and I can never figure out where to lay the droop gauge against it. The droop settings seem to depend on where the gauge touches the chassis. There are slight bulges around the screw holes. How do you guys do it?
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:15 AM   #6765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akuhon
Dear all TA05 users,

Would you like to share the setup for asphalt race ? about 30 degress C asphalt temp .... I have found difficulties in setting the chassis...
I use carbon molded part (chassis, etc ...) and std susp. arm. (should I change with the long reversible version ?)

I need :
1. rebound stroke
2. TRF damper setting (oil wt, piston holes, and spring)
3. Also, do you use any 'suspension mount spacer' front and rear to get low CG for the chassis ?

Thanks alot ,
I use the standard suspension too...27-turn stock in a parking lot track, on Sorex 32Rs with medium Type-B inserts...I set the front and rear droop to be "5" on the Associated droop gauge, then set the ride height to about 5mm. I use Much-More 400W oil (although I think lighter oil would be better) with 2-hole pistons all around, with Tamiya blue short spring up front, and Tamiya yellow short spring on the back. The car used to understeer with that setup, but I flipped the knuckles around (I have C1 on the right and C2 on the left now) and put used the forward hole in the front uprights (less Ackermann effect). The car has so much steering now...and I don't use any kick up/anti-dive...all hingepins are flat relative to the chassis. I use the second-longest camber link in front, with 5mm spacers, and the second-longest camber link with 2.5mm spacers on the rear. I don't run arm sweep either.
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