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Old 02-23-2007, 10:23 PM   #6646
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Hebiki:

Hi,

maybe you can have a belated birthday this year........
I should sell both of mine as I haven't done much racing lately.. my wife likes having me around on the weekends. (I work 2nd).
so I might get to the track once every couple of months.
and I've been building a EVO V between work, sleep, and a bunch of other stuff.
I love this car!!!!!!!!!

Thanks
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Old 02-24-2007, 01:36 AM   #6647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimXLB
Hebiki:

Hi,

maybe you can have a belated birthday this year........
I should sell both of mine as I haven't done much racing lately.. my wife likes having me around on the weekends. (I work 2nd).
so I might get to the track once every couple of months.
and I've been building a EVO V between work, sleep, and a bunch of other stuff.
I love this car!!!!!!!!!

Thanks
thanks man. i havent been able to race lately either. but i just found out ill be able to attend one of my favorite races evoV is a great car. too bad there's no spool available for it yet
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Old 02-24-2007, 05:36 AM   #6648
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It seems that no conversion kit is perfect.

My son drives the 3racing kit.
That kit drives good,
but the topdeck in two parts is a bad concession.



So here is my solution ( work-model still )



To get the stearing so low, i had to flip some arms and move the two
posts 5 mm backwards.



Now everything fits under the topdeck, which is in one piece and at the lowes possible position.
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Old 02-24-2007, 08:40 AM   #6649
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The Penguin R/C Chassis already accomplishes the lower top deck while keeping the rigidness.

I ran the car this past weekend - it is really a race worthy platform. I have a few other very race ready Tamiya rides and this makes the TA05 one of them.




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Old 02-24-2007, 08:49 AM   #6650
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MDawson,

I picked up the Penguin Chassis last week. I have a lot of play in my steering system when using the aluminum steering posts. Do you have the same problem? If so how did you resolve it?
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Old 02-24-2007, 09:29 AM   #6651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OscarF1
It seems that no conversion kit is perfect.

My son drives the 3racing kit.
That kit drives good,
but the topdeck in two parts is a bad concession.

So here is my solution ( work-model still )

To get the stearing so low, i had to flip some arms and move the two
posts 5 mm backwards.

Now everything fits under the topdeck, which is in one piece and at the lowes possible position.
Oscar, are you going to build these topdecks in carbon?
I didn't pick the 3racing chassis due the 2 piece topdeck, but at the end it seems a better platfom than the xenon... nevertheless, your topdeck seems mean ....

and MD, does the topdeck of the penguin chassis 100% straight? it seems that at the motor mount it is a little lower, can you please post a pick from its side and showing the steering servo? thanks a lot both of you, you give me some ideas to play with!
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Last edited by rampal; 02-24-2007 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 02-24-2007, 10:22 AM   #6652
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Quote:
Oscar, are you going to build these topdecks in carbon?
I didn't pick the 3racing chassis due the 2 piece topdeck, but at the end it seems a better platfom than the xenon... nevertheless, your topdeck seems mean ....
@ Rampal:

First i will make the top and lower deck in epoxy ( glass epoxy composite )
that is cheap an stronger than carbon.

This project also managed to get the battery 4 mm closer to the center of the car.

When all parts fit , I will testdrive the car for a few weeks on an outside track.

When that works well there wil be a carbon version to save weight.

By the way, the topdeck will not fit the standard lower deck from 3 racing.
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Old 02-24-2007, 11:16 AM   #6653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
MDawson,

I picked up the Penguin Chassis last week. I have a lot of play in my steering system when using the aluminum steering posts. Do you have the same problem? If so how did you resolve it?
I used standard Tamiya aluminum spacers to reduce weight from the standard spacer hardware. From memory, after using equal spacers I still had a little float of the steering bellcranks. I added about .5mm above the bellcranks to take away the additonally play. Shim to snug, not to tight and make sure it doesnt bind.
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Old 02-24-2007, 11:18 AM   #6654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampal
Oscar, are you going to build these topdecks in carbon?
I didn't pick the 3racing chassis due the 2 piece topdeck, but at the end it seems a better platfom than the xenon... nevertheless, your topdeck seems mean ....

and MD, does the topdeck of the penguin chassis 100% straight? it seems that at the motor mount it is a little lower, can you please post a pick from its side and showing the steering servo? thanks a lot both of you, you give me some ideas to play with!
I dont have pics available right now. The top deck alignment you might be seeing is an optical illusion. Measure from front top deck to lower deck is equal from the front diff mount -> mid -> rear diff mount.
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Old 02-24-2007, 11:21 AM   #6655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OscarF1
@ Rampal:

First i will make the top and lower deck in epoxy ( glass epoxy composite )
that is cheap an stronger than carbon.

This project also managed to get the battery 4 mm closer to the center of the car.

When all parts fit , I will testdrive the car for a few weeks on an outside track.

When that works well there wil be a carbon version to save weight.

By the way, the topdeck will not fit the standard lower deck from 3 racing.
How did you manage to get the 4mm closer to the center of the car? The current battery layout already has the battery tray butted against the right-battery side of the spur gear/motor mount.

Although the picture below shows a Lipo, standard Nimh packs are right against spur/motor mount.

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Old 02-24-2007, 11:42 AM   #6656
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Quote:
How did you manage to get the 4mm closer to the center of the car? The current battery layout already has the battery tray butted against the right-battery side of the spur gear/motor mount.
@ Md

The center pulley has a bit wide gap ,
so I moved the support post 2 mm inwards.

Because I use soldered cells,
there is a gap on the battery when there is no soldering bone.
That also gave 2 mm .
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Old 02-25-2007, 02:34 AM   #6657
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what size of bodyshell are they
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Old 02-25-2007, 01:15 PM   #6658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_smits
what size of bodyshell are they
Like most 1/10 scale electric touring cars, the TA05 uses 190mm bodies....
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:06 PM   #6659
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thinking of geting a ta05 as i plan to do the stcc and want a wet car.dont want to ruin my 415 lol.
what are these cars like straight out the box plastic chassis version and what are they like with a stock 27 motor in.saw my freinds ta05 today with the 3 raceing chassis on it and it was awsome but i dont want to start throwing aload of dosh on a car i will not use much

thanks in advance
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:22 PM   #6660
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You would need the CVD's front and rear, maybe the carbon shock towers, defo TRF shocks, that would be about it.

Saying that, for a TA05 with 3Racing chassis, carbon towers and trf shocks, you wouldn't be much over the cost of a Cyclone S.
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