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Old 01-19-2007, 05:28 AM   #6346
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Thanks for the quick replies!
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Old 01-19-2007, 02:39 PM   #6347
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Does it make a difference using a different brand of shock oil for the TRF dampers? Right now, I only have AE 20wt and the shock oil that comes with the TA05 kits. For drifting, I've always used 20wt, however, I don't know if brands make different to the flourine coated shocks. Also, I notice the shock set comes with 2/3 hole piston in a bag (white) and in a tree (black). The white piston is a little thicker, but which one do I use?

Last edited by gerok; 01-19-2007 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:20 PM   #6348
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I think it depends on the conditions. The pros at my local track recommended 30 wt and 3 hole pistons for my Ta05 with TRF dampers.

Wish I could give you more insight on how those recommendations were made. Maybe someone can chime in.
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:25 PM   #6349
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i went from 2 hole and kit oil to 3 hole and 30wt oil and it was much smoother after making the change.
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Old 01-20-2007, 12:17 AM   #6350
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Which piston do I use? It's weird because there's a bag with white pistons and a tree with black pistons. The edges on the black ones are a little beveled as opposed to the white ones which are more squared...Also, in the shock set box, there were those pink urethane bushings that go into the diff joint cups, where in the world do you put them on the shock
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Old 01-20-2007, 05:58 AM   #6351
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anybody here using the blue clear plastic cover for the diffs is that diff cover strong enough to absorb impacts of the car
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:04 AM   #6352
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Used them on my first TA05 (which had every hop up and a CF chassis to boot) and they looked very nice, a bit more flex in them but as they weren't on a weight bearing part I never had any breakage issues with them.

But I think the $$ for these can be better spent on a performance upgrade, not silly bling that hides under a shell
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:10 AM   #6353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gerok
Which piston do I use? It's weird because there's a bag with white pistons and a tree with black pistons. The edges on the black ones are a little beveled as opposed to the white ones which are more squared...Also, in the shock set box, there were those pink urethane bushings that go into the diff joint cups, where in the world do you put them on the shock
The white pistons are the precision part. Use those. The 2 hole will be stiffer, the 3 hole less stiff. I'd say 3 hole

The red foam goes on top of the bladder (In the cap). Some use it some don't. For drifting, I'd guess don't.

If you look closely at the instructions, you'll understand how they are supposed to be built.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-20-2007, 03:49 PM   #6354
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My diff woes continue

My LHS didn't have the thrust bearings in stock, but did have locknuts. I bought a bag of those.

I rebuilt the diff, spraying the thrust bearing down with motor spray, and re-lubing it with AW grease. Honestly, this thing looks brand new, does it really need replaced? I have had thrust bearings go bad before on diffs, but they usually look all crudded up and worn... This one looks fresh as the day it came out of the bag... Still possible it needs replacement?

I rebuilt the diff with a new locknut and freshly cleaned/lubed thrust bearing. I took it out in a practice lot where I setup some cones. Diff loosened within the first lap.

The LHS owner said he's had some loosening issues with these diffs, too, and suggested a little loctite on the locknut. OK. So I tried that. I rebuilt the diff and tightened it as I always have (can't move the spur, then 1/4 turn more). Checking the action in-car by holding the main spur and one tire shows it to be tight but smooth.

I took it out again... This time I got about 4 minutes of runtime before the diff loosened and I had to bring it in. I thought everything was fine, and it ran well for those 4 minutes, but I did notice someting; every once and awhile on one particular turn where I'm at full lock one of my front wheels hopped voilently... I believe this is the dogbone slightly popping out of the front hub.

I have seen this occur infrequently on my local carpet track, too, although I cannot recall if it happened during the race my diff loosened (and I have since never recovered from!)

Here's what I'm wondering... Over time, those little foam plugs included in the kit (and slipped in the outdrives) have worn somewhat. They're not as lofty as they used to be. Is it possible that the dogbones popping out a bit and causing the violent wheel hop is also breaking the diff loose?

I suppose if that's the case, I either need new foamies or (preferably) universals?

Any other thoughts? I'm a little stumped on this one. I'm a newbie to TC racing, but I have been in the hobby (mostly buggies) since the early 80s. I've never had a diff stump me so badly!
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Old 01-20-2007, 07:12 PM   #6355
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Universals are a must on these things, and it wouldn't hurt to do the thrust bearing anyway, could also be the diff screw (damaged thread)? If it were me, I'd replace that as well
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Old 01-20-2007, 08:20 PM   #6356
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Once again, the dogbones work just fine on this car. If the foam disk are kept in good shape, you can't even tell the difference between the universals and the dogbones.

Sorry to keep harping on this, but I don't want people who just bought the car to think they "have to" immediately dump $30 on universals.

Its just not true.

If you don't really want to upgrade immediately, then run the dogbones till they wear out (after about a full season of racing) then when its time to replace them, upgrade to universals if you want.
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Old 01-20-2007, 10:43 PM   #6357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducati
My diff woes continue

My LHS didn't have the thrust bearings in stock, but did have locknuts. I bought a bag of those.

I rebuilt the diff, spraying the thrust bearing down with motor spray, and re-lubing it with AW grease. Honestly, this thing looks brand new, does it really need replaced? I have had thrust bearings go bad before on diffs, but they usually look all crudded up and worn... This one looks fresh as the day it came out of the bag... Still possible it needs replacement?

I rebuilt the diff with a new locknut and freshly cleaned/lubed thrust bearing. I took it out in a practice lot where I setup some cones. Diff loosened within the first lap.

The LHS owner said he's had some loosening issues with these diffs, too, and suggested a little loctite on the locknut. OK. So I tried that. I rebuilt the diff and tightened it as I always have (can't move the spur, then 1/4 turn more). Checking the action in-car by holding the main spur and one tire shows it to be tight but smooth.

I took it out again... This time I got about 4 minutes of runtime before the diff loosened and I had to bring it in. I thought everything was fine, and it ran well for those 4 minutes, but I did notice someting; every once and awhile on one particular turn where I'm at full lock one of my front wheels hopped voilently... I believe this is the dogbone slightly popping out of the front hub.

I have seen this occur infrequently on my local carpet track, too, although I cannot recall if it happened during the race my diff loosened (and I have since never recovered from!)

Here's what I'm wondering... Over time, those little foam plugs included in the kit (and slipped in the outdrives) have worn somewhat. They're not as lofty as they used to be. Is it possible that the dogbones popping out a bit and causing the violent wheel hop is also breaking the diff loose?

I suppose if that's the case, I either need new foamies or (preferably) universals?

Any other thoughts? I'm a little stumped on this one. I'm a newbie to TC racing, but I have been in the hobby (mostly buggies) since the early 80s. I've never had a diff stump me so badly!
which side of the thrust bearing is the screw head on? there is a brass piece in the middle of the thrust bearing. there is a square end and a tappered end. Make sure the screwhead is on the tappered end. I've seen a few loosen up cause it is on the wrog side.
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:11 AM   #6358
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Hey guys, I am going to take my TA05 apart for a rebuild this week after a few weeks of practice. While I have rebuild many different Tamiyas before, is there anything specific that I should look at while I have the car apart to check for wear? Anything that might wear more than other parts?
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:30 AM   #6359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreqETag
The white pistons are the precision part. Use those. The 2 hole will be stiffer, the 3 hole less stiff. I'd say 3 hole

The red foam goes on top of the bladder (In the cap). Some use it some don't. For drifting, I'd guess don't.

If you look closely at the instructions, you'll understand how they are supposed to be built.

Hope this helps.
Alright, thanks. I should of rephrased my question - what I meant by which piston to use was the black or white one, not 3 or 2 hole, but you covered my question. Thanks again!!
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Old 01-21-2007, 01:59 AM   #6360
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And DO NOT use Tamiya Anit Wear on trust-bearing. Using AE black grease for trust-bearing all the time.
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