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Old 10-01-2006, 04:12 PM   #5416
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Originally Posted by big al
Black kat, The traction of the Norcal track and Ripon is similar to carpet(assuming you run the rubber class). I would give the ever popular yellow springs with yellow sway bars set-up a try first at stockton, then tune from there. I belive the popular tire set-up for stockton was sorex 28's (front) and sorex 24's (rear). I know a lot of guys use the RP's up there, I would ask around on the rcracing site. Personally, I don't see the need for any other tires as long as sorex is still in business,but what the hell do i know. Hope this helps and good luck--Al

p.s. The stock suspension should be fine and a oneway would definitely help your corner speed. Don't use less than 1.5 deg. of camber. I use that combo and my TA05 hurts a lot of egos.
Hey Al,

Ruben instituted a spec tire rule up at Stockton this season. Only RP24's and 30's allowed. Haha, never been to Norcal and if you've been on RCRacing for a while it seems everytime I even make a mere implication of a mention about their track, I get hammered. Wonder what would happen if I actually showed up there! Ruben's a stand up guy and I look forward to running at Stockton this year

We'll see what happens car wise pretty soon. I want to get an RDX again (the car suits me very well) but if I can't get a deal, I'll just run the '05

-Dan
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:35 PM   #5417
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Well my motor is getting too hot with the set up that I'm running. I'm running a P2k2 pro with the stock spur. Pinion I think I have a 22 or 23 running. I race on an indoor carpet track that is most of the time very quick. Small track too. Any ideas?
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:57 PM   #5418
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just wanna ask would or is there a race class for cars like this. like the cyclone s, t2r or some other tub chassis std cars... or is this what you call spec cars?
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:29 AM   #5419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minijosh
Well my motor is getting too hot with the set up that I'm running. I'm running a P2k2 pro with the stock spur. Pinion I think I have a 22 or 23 running. I race on an indoor carpet track that is most of the time very quick. Small track too. Any ideas?
You might be overgeared. I gear 27turns around 7.5 and up on medium sized 35x50 meter outdoor track.
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:13 AM   #5420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minijosh
Well my motor is getting too hot with the set up that I'm running. I'm running a P2k2 pro with the stock spur. Pinion I think I have a 22 or 23 running. I race on an indoor carpet track that is most of the time very quick. Small track too. Any ideas?
Rubber or foam?

We race rubber on a tight indoor track (1 basket ball court), main straight is full length on one side. I run Brood Monster's and CO27's stockers, using 21 pinion as standard (FDR = 7.5), one either side depending on motor.

You should give a CO27 a go
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Old 10-03-2006, 12:44 PM   #5421
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Racing rubber tires and I'll give the C027 with a 21 pinion a turn at the track on Monday. This will be the first race for points in the new season.
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Old 10-03-2006, 01:02 PM   #5422
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Got the wide-pitch pulleys installed yesterday.. wow.. forget the wide-pitch feature to reduce drag, it's the raised lip around the diff joints I love!
I always wondered why the diffs were always open like that, it's bound to get dirty much quicker.. Now with the 9 diff balls and the lip, I'd expect to need to rebuild those suckers even less than I already have been!
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Old 10-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #5423
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jam-ehz
Got the wide-pitch pulleys installed yesterday.. wow.. forget the wide-pitch feature to reduce drag, it's the raised lip around the diff joints I love!
I always wondered why the diffs were always open like that, it's bound to get dirty much quicker.. Now with the 9 diff balls and the lip, I'd expect to need to rebuild those suckers even less than I already have been!
The raised lip around the diff joint is really nice. I took it apart after a few weekends at track and it stayed clean...unlike the stock ones.
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Old 10-03-2006, 07:50 PM   #5424
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Does the wide pulley change the internal ratio?
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Old 10-03-2006, 07:59 PM   #5425
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You would kind of think so, but no it doesn't
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Does the wide pulley change the internal ratio?
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Old 10-03-2006, 09:49 PM   #5426
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Hi Guys,

anyone have any pics or links of their ta-05 with a GTX esc? would like to see how you guys installed it with regards to battery, connections, plug types, soldering etc. As i need to see so i can do mine. Im a newbie so yeah.

cheers

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Old 10-03-2006, 10:03 PM   #5427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tam
Hi Guys,

anyone have any pics or links of their ta-05 with a GTX esc? would like to see how you guys installed it with regards to battery, connections, plug types, soldering etc. As i need to see so i can do mine. Im a newbie so yeah.

cheers

Tam
i don't have a pic of it with me now, but it's pretty simple since GTX is a small esc and came with the wires pre-soldered. you just need to solder the plugs. as for plug types it's up to you but the common ones that people use is the banana/corally plug or the deans plug.

if you're talking about which wire goes where then it should be in the manual, you'll have better picture from there. if not, you can go to www.teamnovak.com and look for the manual under the GTX section.

hope this helps
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Old 10-04-2006, 07:23 AM   #5428
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Here's my GTX set up with my Xenon chassis, but the tub will follow the same way.

Looks a little messy with the fan wires and all, but that's pretty well it.

I mounted the capacitor from the top of the board, not the bottom, so it sticks straight up and won't hit the belts or rub on the brace.
I used the long receiver wire, since the short one wasn't long enough. Unfortunately it's crazy long, so I had to wrap it around the gtx once before stringing it over to the receiver.
From the other pic, I just used 5" of lead and used Deans.
For the tub chassis, I tie-wrap the switch from its hole to one of the motor wires, so it hangs out of the way and faces down, easy to reach up and switch on and off.

This pic is from last week, I've since gotten the wide pitch and blue belts, along with the blue motor mount.. I've basically built a stock TA05 out of my spare parts.. prolly sell it off to make back a bit of money
With the blue belts along and the wide pitch pulleys, I've had to set them to the loosest notch, and they're still not as loose as I'd like them.. heh.. I guess after a good race it'll stretch out.
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Old 10-04-2006, 03:08 PM   #5429
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Guys, I just got 25 flat head and 25 button head Aluminum bolts for my TA-05.
Can you tell me which of the original bolts I can replace with these, and which I better not replace?


I thought to replace shock-towers' mounting bolts, all the 10mm bolts that hold the front and rear braces, front bolt on the part that holds the antennaís tube (and etc.), sway bars' holders at the diffs, and the rest flat head bolts that hold the diffs and suspension blocks to the tub.
My main concern is about bolts that you can see when you turn the chassis up side down including bolts that are involved in hold the bumper to the chassis and front body posts.

I canít wait to hear from you guys!
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Old 10-04-2006, 03:17 PM   #5430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viat
Guys, I just got 25 flat head and 25 button head Aluminum bolts for my TA-05.
Can you tell me which of the original bolts I can replace with these, and which I better not replace?


I thought to replace shock-towers' mounting bolts, all the 10mm bolts that hold the front and rear braces, front bolt on the part that holds the antennaís tube (and etc.), sway bars' holders at the diffs, and the rest flat head bolts that hold the diffs and suspension blocks to the tub.
My main concern is about bolts that you can see when you turn the chassis up side down including bolts that are involved in hold the bumper to the chassis and front body posts.

I canít wait to hear from you guys!
From what I have seen, and done to my car, pretty much all the screws that go into plastic are safe to replace with aluminum versions. The screws on the bottom of the chassis are VERY well counter sunk (thank you Tamiya) so you don't have to worry about screw heads getting damaged. So feel free to replace those too. The screws that go into the motor mount on the other hand, I would get stainless steel screws (of the proper length, a couple are REALLY long) to replace those.

If you take a look at the pic of my car about a page back, you see that I went with blue alum. screws pretty much everywhere with no problems to speak of.

***edit***

IF YOUR USING THE GRAPHITE COMPOSITE CHASSIS COMPONENTS, the be SURE to tap the hole...then tap it some more...AND grease the holes (diff grease works fine) before installing the aluminum screws. This is a MUST!
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