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Old 07-28-2006, 10:28 AM   #4831
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I just bought a 3Racing chassis conversion, any tips chaps?
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Old 07-28-2006, 10:37 AM   #4832
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Hi,

All the edges need sealing with cyanoacrylate.

The edges on the battery tray holes can be chamferred to allow the cells to fit better/lower. Its best to try the batteries you intend to use as the newer cells GP3700, IB4200 are larger and consequently the pitch of the cells is larger. Try not to have the cells sitting lower than the chassis, as they may then get damaged. These chamferred edges need to be sealed as well.


Regards,

Sarah
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Old 07-28-2006, 10:43 AM   #4833
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Thanks Sazzle (chapette, sorry )

so the basic usual prep work for a carbon chassis. Does the velcro straps work well or are they best filed under B for BIN?? Also, how much weight saving would I be looking at with it?
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:40 PM   #4834
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Like Sazzle said, all the edge of 3racing kit required CA seal. I don't know why but it seems 3racing's CF strength is not as high as Tamiya/Xray CF. It's quite easy to break off from edge. So you better seal it, not only for car, for your hand safty as well. Also, you better add shim on top of 2F plate motor mount screw hole. Mine is dent a bit already after 3mons use.

Functionality wise, I have no complain about 3racing kit. But the CF strength really need an improvement.
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:44 PM   #4835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst
Thanks Sazzle (chapette, sorry )

so the basic usual prep work for a carbon chassis. Does the velcro straps work well or are they best filed under B for BIN?? Also, how much weight saving would I be looking at with it?
My car is 3racing kit + full carbon reinforced parts, with 3800batt, AMB Pt, KO 302RX, KO 2713 servo, GM SX9 ESC, rubber tire, body, it's 1520g, right on weight lmitation.
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-dsc02876s.jpg  
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:45 PM   #4836
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I've raced with a 3 racing chassis for the past 8 months on my TA05 here's what I found:

Looks awesome!

Battery strap isn't too bad, put in some larger screws though for a deeper contact, and loctite them, useless for stick packs!

Chassis seems fairly strong, takes a few hits fine.

No Antenna Mount..... now that's just stupid!

Spur gear shaft moves around a bit, could be shimmed up.

Lightens you from the standard tub by maybe 10 grams if that

Good combo with Titanium Screw set and clear blue Tamiya bulkheads.
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:54 PM   #4837
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pics ?
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Old 07-29-2006, 12:16 AM   #4838
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Hi again,

Compared against the standard chassis the 3Racing chassis reduces the weight by 53g. This does include replacing the 3Racing screws with Titanium ones, which on the few screws is not much anyway(Ti weighs approximately 2/3rds of steel).

I'll do some photo's of mine later today.

Sarah
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Old 07-29-2006, 02:16 AM   #4839
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Thats great positive reply's there TA05 fans.

Sazzle, look forward to the pic, I am mainly looking at reducing weight to lighten the load on the motor a little.

Just out of curiosity, does it have a slot for cell tape?
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Old 07-29-2006, 07:12 AM   #4840
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Pic of my TA05
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-img_1533.jpg  
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Old 07-30-2006, 09:35 AM   #4841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxus
Pic of my TA05
nice i like the blue bulk heads
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:48 AM   #4842
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hi! newby here(i think). i recently had a ta05. I bought the following hop ups:
alu. threaded shocks by eagle racing(only available alu. shocks in the lhs)
stablizer set by tamiya
stock 23turn tamiya RZ
universals by tobee
I accidentaly bought the universals with 4mm offset on each side! man, now my cars width is 197.5mm. is this illegal in most lhs racing? i dont mean TCS.
I mean on your(anyone) lhs, does this qualify?
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:07 AM   #4843
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The width should not be a problem at your local race shop, but the body may not fit. The wheels will stick out past the normal 190 mm body. You might have to run a 200mm body.

PS.... Try to sell them to another non racer and get the correct ones, when you can.
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:35 PM   #4844
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yeah, thanks for the info man . i was thinking of that too. buying a new 200mm body or i could buy the right axles and disassemble the universals. i have to find a way to dispose the (long) axles with offsets which would be very difficult. I think im going to go with changing the axle ..... thanks!
what pinion would i match with a 70T spur to optimize and bring out the best of 23 turn tamiya RZ?
how can i reduce the play in the steering? i heard the aluminum steering hop up doesnt really solve this problem...
thanks!
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:38 PM   #4845
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For the steering I got a .5mm shim from Yokomo to fit on the top of the post for the steering and no more slop.
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