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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan

Old 07-09-2006, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by big al
What weight oils are you guys using. I use the stock shocks with trinity 55wt. and 1 hole piston. I have to use a red sway bar up front and the yellow in the rear,stock springs all around. I'm looking for a way to try and eliminate the sway bars and maintain the feel of sway bars. Thanks--Al
Usually I run 50wt 2 hole.
I don't really like the feel of eliminating both swaybars usually I run the stiffest (blue) up front and eliminate the rear.
You can run stiffer springs up front. I have ran 25f(purple)/20r(grey) but it really depends on track conditions and traction... you might need to be softer.
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Old 07-09-2006, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by big al
Kevin,
Are you guys using the trf 2 hole pistons?? I have a set of yellows,but most of the guys around here were using white /blue or white/white (f/r),and the stock silvers are little harder than the yellows. I'm thinking that the harder springs may be key as this would give the car the quicker transition/less roll I'm looking for. Any input guys??-Al
Al,

I went from Tamiya Yellow to the kit silvers with the same frame of mind. It didn't help enough. I think the car just needs sway-bars. I'll probably pick some up from Sheldon's next weekend (HTSJ didn't have them or else I would have gotten them)
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackKat
Al,

I went from Tamiya Yellow to the kit silvers with the same frame of mind. It didn't help enough. I think the car just needs sway-bars. I'll probably pick some up from Sheldon's next weekend (HTSJ didn't have them or else I would have gotten them)
Yes, sway bar and proper spring set make a perfect combination.
Mine : blue sway bar (ff & rr), springs : blue (ff) & yellow (rr).
It's perfect .... mine running on smooth track, a bit dusty, no pebbles or such.

Also, Losi oils shock : 45 (ff) & 30 (rr)
piston 2 holes (ff & rr).
o-ring : black 1 (ff & rr) and silicone 1 (ff & rr)
TRF Fluorine damper (regular ones, not the Blue TRF damper)
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Old 07-09-2006, 09:30 PM
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hey guys
Can you suggest a typical pinion for a 100t spur gear??? Im running stock tao5 and 23t type s motoron un preapared, semi technical asphalt track.. tnx
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Old 07-09-2006, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by racenut
hey guys
Can you suggest a typical pinion for a 100t spur gear??? Im running stock tao5 and 23t type s motoron un preapared, semi technical asphalt track.. tnx
depends on your motor type (torque / rpm), probably start with a 40T and work yourway up.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:45 AM
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If I'm switching from the stock spur and pinion to a 64 pitch setup, what do I need?

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Old 07-10-2006, 11:10 AM
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no bigger than a 108 bill.

-ult
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Old 07-10-2006, 11:58 AM
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Actually looking for Tamiya part numbers.

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Old 07-10-2006, 01:14 PM
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What front and rear blocks are you guys running at Tamiya track for the Ta05 ? Trying to figure out for my neighbors car. Do you run similar to my MSX ?

How about a owners manual ? His kit was used and did not come with one ?

Thanks,

kevin
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:13 PM
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I got a problem with my droop settings which i have now found a solution but want some of your expert opinion/comments

I got the tamiya carbon reinforced chassis, TRF dampers with the tamiya short springs. I notice the chassis is tweaked a bit just like what most of you guys said on this thread.

I set my droop to 4mm at all 4 corners. Then i install the dampers and wheels. I adjust the thread on the TRF dampers so the ride height is 5mm at all 4 corners.
But then when i try to lift up the car using a sharp object from the rear of the car. The right rear wheel always lift off the ground first .. up to about 3-4mm in the air then the left rear wheel lifts off the ground. I've rebuild my dampers a few times to make sure they are the same length. I've also swap the left and right dampers but still the same result. I can feel that the right side of the car just like to come up first when i lift the car up from rear. I adjusted the droop settings to make both wheels lift off the ground at the same time, but the left and right droop settings become really different and with this setting the car handle quite bad on the track last weekend.

So i reset the droop settings to what it was before and i've fixed the problem by adjusting the front left damper and make the front left corner slightly higher (by approx 0.5mm) and now both wheels lift the ground at the same time!

Is this the correct solution? do you guys have similar problem with the carbon reinforced chassis?
Thanks
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by elusiver
does anyone know how much weight you can drop by changing to the 3racing graphite chassis? I'm keen on dropping the weight of my car.. as it stands now around the 1600g mark.. but just lookin at the biggest bang for buck way to drop some weight..

The xenon kit drops about 30g.. but i'd assume the 3racing kit drops a little more because it replaces the stiffners as well...


thanks,
el
I'm just building my secong TA05, this one for tarmac, and by using the 3Racing chassis it reduces the weight by 53g. This does include replacing the 3Racing screws with Titanium ones, which on the few screws is not much anyway(Ti weighs approximately 2/3rds of steel).

Hope this is useful,

Sarah
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by yellow15
I got a problem with my droop settings which i have now found a solution but want some of your expert opinion/comments

I got the tamiya carbon reinforced chassis, TRF dampers with the tamiya short springs. I notice the chassis is tweaked a bit just like what most of you guys said on this thread.

I set my droop to 4mm at all 4 corners. Then i install the dampers and wheels. I adjust the thread on the TRF dampers so the ride height is 5mm at all 4 corners.
But then when i try to lift up the car using a sharp object from the rear of the car. The right rear wheel always lift off the ground first .. up to about 3-4mm in the air then the left rear wheel lifts off the ground. I've rebuild my dampers a few times to make sure they are the same length. I've also swap the left and right dampers but still the same result. I can feel that the right side of the car just like to come up first when i lift the car up from rear. I adjusted the droop settings to make both wheels lift off the ground at the same time, but the left and right droop settings become really different and with this setting the car handle quite bad on the track last weekend.

So i reset the droop settings to what it was before and i've fixed the problem by adjusting the front left damper and make the front left corner slightly higher (by approx 0.5mm) and now both wheels lift the ground at the same time!

Is this the correct solution? do you guys have similar problem with the carbon reinforced chassis?
Thanks
I dont worry about the shock collars being the same on all 4 corners. I set the ride height first, then I set the ballance of the car on 4 digital scales. Depending on the electronics ( the left front wheel will be light when the rears are even,) dont worry the car will drive great. Then I set my droops evenly to what I want.
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Old 07-10-2006, 07:38 PM
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tamiya makes a 105T. but buy the precision stuff instead. better parts for the money.

hey paulie, did many folks (if @ all) drop down to 48P for the outdoor pavement @ laurel, or did u stay 64P?

-ult
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Old 07-10-2006, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
I dont worry about the shock collars being the same on all 4 corners. I set the ride height first, then I set the ballance of the car on 4 digital scales. Depending on the electronics ( the left front wheel will be light when the rears are even,) dont worry the car will drive great. Then I set my droops evenly to what I want.
oh i don't mean set the collars to be the same on all 4 corners. i mean i set the collars so the ride height is the same.

So what you mean is.. the ride height doesn't have to be exactly the same.. the more important thing is the balance (weight) of each corner is the same.. is that what you mean?
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Old 07-10-2006, 08:47 PM
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Hey guys, I got a little bored and decided to weigh my electronics. it looks as though the battery is about 120 grams (approx) heavier than all my electronics. How is it that the chassis is balanced. I've done well with the car and maintain The "don't fix what ain't broken" mentality, but I'm still curious. The battery doesn't look any closer to the center nor does the motor side look any further away --Al
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