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Old 06-02-2006, 08:08 AM   #4231
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Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey
You can download an RC gear calculator from here which also might help

http://waits.net/public/rcgears/
Sorry grease monkey but I was unable to unzip the file. Is that any other solution?

Paul
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Old 06-02-2006, 10:28 AM   #4232
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Just put on 3racing chassis kit.... much lighter...

As I run on asphalt, I need the chassis to be flex for low traction asphalt. By removing steering column and rear 2F column, it's much much flex than original design. It's about same flex as stock TRF415 now, hope it's flex enough.
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Old 06-02-2006, 10:41 AM   #4233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwings
Sorry grease monkey but I was unable to unzip the file. Is that any other solution?

Paul
Paul try THIS to make your own gear chart............
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Old 06-02-2006, 02:26 PM   #4234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttso
Just put on 3racing chassis kit.... much lighter...

As I run on asphalt, I need the chassis to be flex for low traction asphalt. By removing steering column and rear 2F column, it's much much flex than original design. It's about same flex as stock TRF415 now, hope it's flex enough.
Nice! ! !
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Old 06-02-2006, 06:31 PM   #4235
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Originally Posted by linger
Al, If I remember correctly, the kit setting has the steering tierod connected to the outer (back) hole of the steering knuckle. If you move it up to the front hole, you will get 2x the steering and it will free up you rear end.
Ling: Thanks a bunch for stopping by. Once I start running the car I'm going to start PMing you a bunch asking questions My dad and I think it's great that your back out racing again.

Al: I told myself I wasn't going to call in sick this season b/c I was on the verge of being promoted but now management wants anyone that gets promoted to be 18 or over.....I guarentee that if I graduate high school, turn 18 and I'm STILL working there...I'll shoot myself.....LOL

With the lack of racing in NorCal this June I'm thinking of going to down to Gilroy and rebuilding the track so I can get some track time with the '05
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Old 06-03-2006, 12:36 AM   #4236
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Thanks Slotmachine, that works
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Old 06-03-2006, 02:05 AM   #4237
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Default Tamiya Carbon Chassis

Does anyone know if the tamiya carbon chassis is conductive? I remember having to use tape on my Losi XXXS chassis so my ladder packs didn't short out, and was worried about the same happening with the Tamiya one.
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Old 06-03-2006, 05:40 AM   #4238
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I don't believe they are Dan, but I am staying away from these Carbon reinforced bits for now, they don't have as much flex so the extra brittleness actually can make it more prone to breakage.
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Old 06-03-2006, 09:05 AM   #4239
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I have not had any problems with electrical issues with my graphite chassis/parts. I also haven't noticed that the car is more brittle at all. They seem to be just as tough. I have left all the suspension parts stock though. I don't see any huge benefit from using the hard suspension.
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Old 06-03-2006, 09:34 AM   #4240
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I run my 3racing chassis first time today. The biggest improvement is in corner. My car used to slide away from my driving line. Now the car stay on driving line perfectly. As my setting is largly the same, it must be benifited from weight saving. Also, the accelration is faster than before as well.

I didn't try graphite chassis nor other brand carbon fiber chassis, but from what I tell on my car, those weight saving worth the spending...
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Old 06-03-2006, 10:40 AM   #4241
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CIVIC91:

Hi,

how much weight did you save by going to all Carbon composite chassis parts????? also do you run foam/carpet??
I'm thinking about going to all composite parts and the LW suspension as the Ta05 seems a little flexy with the stock tub for foams/carpet and it is a little heavy

Thanks
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Old 06-03-2006, 11:57 AM   #4242
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I've run both carpet with foams and asphalt rubber. For carpet I ran all the graphite parts/chassis...but I stuck with the standard suspension. It is prefered for carpet. The lightweight suspension was designed with rubber tires in mind. You have to run some HPI hubs/carriers to have clearence for foams with the light suspension. With the stock suspension you just need to add 1mm spacers to your wheel hexes and there is plenty of clearence to run 28mm foams. Also the light suspension breaks easier.

As far as weight savings...I believe all the graphite/plastic chassis/pieces saved around 1.5 ounces. But I have never felt as though the car was heavy on the track. It never pushed off the race line. I think that is more setup than weight. It felt as responsive, if not more so than several other high end cars I've owned (FK05-T2-JRXS-RDX)

And despite the "so called too much flex" is concerned...don't worry, the car rocks on carpet. Just get the chassis...and you'll be set.
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Old 06-03-2006, 06:04 PM   #4243
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CIVIC91:

Hi,

Thanks for your input. all we race is carpet/foams. no real good asphalt tracks around where we live and when they do race asphalt it's foams also.
I didn''t know about the HPI hubs with the LW suspension. as this is my first onroad Tamiya (my first Tamiya anything raceable). so I have alot to learn.


Thanks
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Old 06-03-2006, 07:04 PM   #4244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan the Man
Does anyone know if the tamiya carbon chassis is conductive? I remember having to use tape on my Losi XXXS chassis so my ladder packs didn't short out, and was worried about the same happening with the Tamiya one.
Not sure about the ta05 carbon tub chassis but my old ta04r carbon tub would short ladder packs.
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Old 06-03-2006, 07:08 PM   #4245
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I got a chance to run mine today and had major glitching issues. The only thing that changed was that I installed the LW chassis and ran the 540silver can class. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should look for problems. I've used the same equiment on FK04 (except the 540 silver can) and never had a problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!--Al
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