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Old 05-29-2006, 07:13 PM   #4171
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I run a chameloen 2 19turn motor for parking lot bashing with 5.8:1 gearing and my motor gets warm at the most. Sure, it's not flat out racing or anything so not sure if that makes a big difference but I'm on it for the whole battery pack.

Just my 2c, not that it means that much.
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:23 PM   #4172
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It may work fine for you....but I certainly wouldn't reccomend that or anything near that as a starting point. If you roast your armature, lowering you pinion size isn't gonna bring that dead motor back. I would suggest starting safe and if you feel your winding out too early, go up a tooth.

If I geared anywhere near a 6.0 my motor would be dead in 1 run. Maybe my motors are RPMish, but even my fellow racer Darkseid, who runs a TA05, and runs the Checkpoint 19t motor didn't wind up anywhere near a 6.0. Everyone told him to run at least a 6.0 or lower, but it was too much gear. Start around 7.0 and go from there...much safer way to go. My .02


I would also guess that bashing you are not accelerating off of every corner as you would on a race track. That makes a big differnce.
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:49 PM   #4173
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Does the Tao4's alluminum steering assembly will fit in my Toa5??? Also the CV axles of Tao4??
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:07 PM   #4174
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19t for racing needs a big pinion. But all this depends on track size. For a Komoto Dragon on our track.. 6.25 is a good starting point. For the CO27... 6.0 is a good starting point. I sometimes run 5.90 with it. One of the other fast guys run 5.8 with the CO27. Track size is around 145ish x 95ish..... Use a motor fan pointed at the endbell.... Sometimes ya gotta gear up to keep up with the fast guys...
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Old 05-30-2006, 05:25 AM   #4175
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Wow, I believe you guys with that gearing because I heard it so many times before, but just doesn't work for me. Our tracks are around 125x75...and 180x80. Neither one of them do I get near a 6.0.
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:18 AM   #4176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
It may work fine for you....but I certainly wouldn't reccomend that or anything near that as a starting point. If you roast your armature, lowering you pinion size isn't gonna bring that dead motor back. I would suggest starting safe and if you feel your winding out too early, go up a tooth.

If I geared anywhere near a 6.0 my motor would be dead in 1 run. Maybe my motors are RPMish, but even my fellow racer Darkseid, who runs a TA05, and runs the Checkpoint 19t motor didn't wind up anywhere near a 6.0. Everyone told him to run at least a 6.0 or lower, but it was too much gear. Start around 7.0 and go from there...much safer way to go. My .02


I would also guess that bashing you are not accelerating off of every corner as you would on a race track. That makes a big differnce.

I'd have to agree with you actually. Isn't the standard ratio something like 7.1:1? So, yeah. I imagine it is a good starting point. I doubt Tamiya just throws a couple of gears in and hopes it's an ok ratio.

As for the bashing compared to racing, that's why I mentioned it. I think because there's more room to play with when bashing (no marked track) then you're on the accelerator more but you're not doing the heavy braking coming into a corner and then accelerating out of it anywhere near as much. I think that might be harder on the motor than just sitting on the gas all day.
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Old 05-30-2006, 10:40 AM   #4177
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Like I said in the previous page to racenut, there's something wrong with the motor and gearing if our black cans have the same speed with his 23 turn. It could be the meshing is tight but I saw his spur and its still 0.6 module so its easier to mesh correctly.

In asia people gear a 23turn from 5.8 to 6.2 generally. Some on bigger tracks run 5.5.

For 27turn its quite different. i run mine with 7.2 to 7.5 gearing. Haven't tried 19turn but I expect to gear it starting at 7.5.

Undergearing will overheat the motor as well.
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Old 05-30-2006, 03:47 PM   #4178
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hi
I run my TA05 today and I noticed, for the first time, that when I push the throttle hard, it turns slightly to right.... if I do it progressively, it goes fully straight... my train seems to be free, I have universals and only changes I made since last run were the 5mm aluminum hexes and some shims I put between hexes and bearings, to get rid of the movement of the axes.... what do you think? could be my setup, my diffs or the shims? the shims are the ones that I use on my mission, the wheel appears to runs free....

thanks and cheers,
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Old 05-30-2006, 03:54 PM   #4179
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If your drivetrain is free then you probably have a tweaked chassis. Have you checked that?
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:01 PM   #4180
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It doesn't seem tweak, but I'll check it out. could be any other reason? it is really annoying....

thanks and cheers,
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:06 PM   #4181
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check your droop setting? make sure it's the same on both side?
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:17 PM   #4182
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i'll try that, though don't have a droop gauge.... thanks!

ah, i think i'll buy the all-in-one hudy setup stuff.... more $$!
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:35 PM   #4183
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if you don't have a droop gauge, just do this.

1.remove the wheels.
2. Find a flat surface (e.g. your desk), get a wooden block or something and put your car on it.
3. Measure the vertical distance between the desk and the end of the suspension arm and see if both sides are equal.

Last edited by yellow15; 06-14-2006 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:44 PM   #4184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CIVIC91
Wow, I believe you guys with that gearing because I heard it so many times before, but just doesn't work for me. Our tracks are around 125x75...and 180x80. Neither one of them do I get near a 6.0.
Well I can understand because there are a couple guys here that can not run our/mine gear. Maybe it's driving style? I dunno. If you can carry the speed through the turn... then maybe the bigger pinion will help. But if you brake hard or use drag brake in the turn... then the smaller pinion is what you need. Also, if you look at the instructions on the CO27 (if you bought the Trinity version) then you'll see the suggested gearing. At Express Motorsports we found the right gearing to be around the 6.0 +/- .25 for the CO27 motor at our local tracks here in NC. The CO27 is very picky on gearing though. As for 19t, all the different brands have their own range. Komoto's need to be geared like a Monster stock. C2 similar, maybe 1 tooth more. Atlas 19t's are usually in the 6 or lower range. Quad mag the same as well as the Orion/Peak 19t.

But again, remember is all driving style as well at track size and layout. Also, we rebuild our just about every run. And for 19t.. I would suggest running the XXX brushes with red springs all around. Especially in the hot summer time. Blah blah blah.... hehe..
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Old 05-30-2006, 06:28 PM   #4185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayman
Like I said in the previous page to racenut, there's something wrong with the motor and gearing if our black cans have the same speed with his 23 turn. It could be the meshing is tight but I saw his spur and its still 0.6 module so its easier to mesh correctly.

In asia people gear a 23turn from 5.8 to 6.2 generally. Some on bigger tracks run 5.5.

For 27turn its quite different. i run mine with 7.2 to 7.5 gearing. Haven't tried 19turn but I expect to gear it starting at 7.5.

Undergearing will overheat the motor as well.
I mesh my gears properly, im not that dumb I will put a silver can motor at my tao5, it will be my basis as starting point on gearings.
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