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Old 03-29-2006, 04:42 PM   #3586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAMIYAMANUK
hi guys
you have probley heard this a million times
what is a good pinion and spur (64dp)to use on a tight track with a big straight got have good out accerlation out of the corners and good top speed
any help plzzz

kind regards
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CO27 motor 100 foot straight 106x36 29,7 mm. roll out monster stock motor 106x32 26.5 mm. roll out these are based on rubber tires 63mm.
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Old 03-29-2006, 05:27 PM   #3587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
Im actually thinking of getting one aswell as I read that its around 40 grams lighter, but not sure now as others are complaining about tweak.

Does anyone know what weight difference you can get with the Tamiya Titanium Axles in all four corner?

Can anyone also confirm that the Tech Racing Blue turnbuckle set and Carbon Battery holder and the same as what tamiya is selling?
I have some TechRacing Blue turnbuckles (but they are Yokomo dark blue not the light Tamiya Blue). They are different than the Tamiya turnbuckles. But "buckle" size is more of a Yokomo size (the yokomo wrench fits it.. the Tamiya wrench is too big).
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Old 03-29-2006, 07:25 PM   #3588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danjoy25
Im actually thinking of getting one aswell as I read that its around 40 grams lighter.
It is exactly 10 grams lighter. That's it. It IS, however, far stiffer and has greater rigidity.

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Old 03-29-2006, 07:32 PM   #3589
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For you guys looking for alloy blue turnbuckles HERE is where to go...............
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Old 03-29-2006, 08:22 PM   #3590
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Hey guys,

Can I get some inut from you guys n the Xenon racing chassis? I got a car with it and its beautiful, but does it perform. Any back to back performance testing? I am thinking of unloading it and building my 05 up per TCS rules.

Ray
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Old 03-29-2006, 09:05 PM   #3591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scarab
It is exactly 10 grams lighter. That's it. It IS, however, far stiffer and has greater rigidity.

Scarab
Thats odd, I could have sworn that when I weighed my old and new chassis, that the difference was much more than 10 grams.

Maybe my memory is playing tricks on me.

Can anyone else confirm what the weight difference is?
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Old 03-29-2006, 10:16 PM   #3592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Thats odd, I could have sworn that when I weighed my old and new chassis, that the difference was much more than 10 grams.

Maybe my memory is playing tricks on me.

Can anyone else confirm what the weight difference is?
i saw someone posted that the difference is about 20grams but when i weigh mine i think the difference is about 10grams only.
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Old 03-30-2006, 01:05 AM   #3593
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Talking Lt wt. chassis

I'm getting out 15 grams lighter but I put ti screws on the bottom and left off the battery mount! It drives more like a 415 with the new chassis. Rigid and not as much flex in the corners. Although I noticed that if you put the tires too high up the burm it will flip over. I didn't remember it doing that before?
I wonder if putting sway bars will help or hinder this condition?
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:00 AM   #3594
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TRF fluorine coated damper set

Hi all:
I've been reading all this thread and it's amazing how many things you can learn around here!!!! Anyway, I've just bought the TRF damper set (the titanium one) and when putting it together, I just realize the existence of a black o'ring underneath the piston.... also that in the instructions that for the TRF414 you don't need to use it, but for TB01 you use 1 or things like that. I'm trying to use the TA05 for racing outside on cement, so do I need to use it or not? Does anyone of you use the o'ring either indoors or outdoors?

Thanks a lot,
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:06 AM   #3595
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Hi,

The black O ring is, as far as I am aware of, used to shorten the stroke of the piston. The space between the lower suspension arm and the shocktower are different for every Tamiya model. For example TRF414 has an higher shocktower than the TA04 TRF model. Beside when driving a 415 with the kit shocks it has longer pistonrods then when useing the MS versions .........

Guys correct me if I am wrong.

Marc
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:10 AM   #3596
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Hi TDO:
Yeah, I'm aware of using the o'ring to shortened the overall length of the damper. That't why I wanted to know, as there is no reference in the instructions of the damper set, if I need to use it or not (or use 2) on the TA05....

Thanks a lot, this thread is really fast!!!
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Old 03-30-2006, 07:58 AM   #3597
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Was checking out the aluminum clamp hex hubs and see they have 4mm,5mm, and 6mm. Which ones should I pick up? I will be running mostly at The Colliseum @ Frederick Hobbytown. Thanks.
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Old 03-30-2006, 08:06 AM   #3598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rampal
Hi TDO:
Yeah, I'm aware of using the o'ring to shortened the overall length of the damper. That't why I wanted to know, as there is no reference in the instructions of the damper set, if I need to use it or not (or use 2) on the TA05....

Thanks a lot, this thread is really fast!!!
It won't make no difference on the track, only prevent you from using high amounts of droop on certain cars, so I simply never put them. Droop should be set with droop screws anyway.
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Old 03-30-2006, 08:18 AM   #3599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDO
Hi,

The black O ring is, as far as I am aware of, used to shorten the stroke of the piston. The space between the lower suspension arm and the shocktower are different for every Tamiya model. For example TRF414 has an higher shocktower than the TA04 TRF model. Beside when driving a 415 with the kit shocks it has longer pistonrods then when useing the MS versions .........

Guys correct me if I am wrong.

Marc
Yes the o rings are used to shorten the shock length, but you only use the orings if your running a car with no droop screws. Droop screws do the same thing as the o rings, so best bet is to not use the o rings on your TA05.
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Old 03-30-2006, 09:28 AM   #3600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bane
Was checking out the aluminum clamp hex hubs and see they have 4mm,5mm, and 6mm. Which ones should I pick up? I will be running mostly at The Colliseum @ Frederick Hobbytown. Thanks.
Most people go with the 6mm for a couple reasons:

1.If you run foams, it will give you enough clearance so that 28mm foams wont drag on your front camber ball cup.(Depending on what company's foams you use, you may still have to shave a little off the ball cup)

2. It widens the car to give more stability and keeps you from having the stock axles sticking out so far from the wheel nut. Axles that stick out too far can cause breakage if they catch a board or something.

The only downside to the 6mm hexes is that for some reason, Tamiya decided to clear anodize them and leave them natural aluminum color, instead of anodizing them blue.
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