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Old 03-21-2006, 08:21 AM   #3481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seatbelt
I finished building my TA05 today (yay), but am in some trouble. I have found that the car doesnt really acclerate much, and also when the cars on an incline, the drivetrain will move, but the wheels do not. What's wrong with it? This is my first car.

Your diffs are too loose. TO test:

Hold one rear wheel and the spur at the same time. Try to spin the other wheel. It shold be hard to spin, but not locked up.

NOw do the same with the front wheels. It should be just as tight or slightly tighter than the rear.

WHile on the track, if you hit the throttle full from a stop-car should shoot away silently. if you hear a squaking sound, your diffs are still too loose.

Dont drive on loose diffs, you'll ruin them straight away and need to replace the rings and balls.
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:55 AM   #3482
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I don't think anything is a must, but If I were to start over again I'd get the TRF shocks and maybe the carbon fiber shock towers. Other stuff as needed. It also depends on what type of track your running on. Both Darkseid and I have ran the dogbones for 5 months and this weekend was the first issue either of us had.
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Originally Posted by Bane
Ordered my TA05 last night and would like some info on the necessary hop-ups in your opinions PLEASE. Thanks!!!!
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Old 03-21-2006, 01:07 PM   #3483
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Or, if you tighten them too much like I did, you'll end up with 2 melted HP diffs 2 melted pulleys, many lost diff balls, and a couple bearings encased inside each diff like a surprise.. the rings were fine, though, just sanded them down a bit..

I was leading my B-main race by a lap, and things just started to slow down.. I figured my battery dumped or something, but when it passed me I could hear the motor going full out no problems.. it just slowed to a crawl, and you could see all of the melted plastic deformed around the diff cups and pulleys.. ugh..

Do ceramic diff balls reduce heat produced from this? Either way I tightened it way too much.. Thankfully the thrust bearings and screws are fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Your diffs are too loose. TO test:

Hold one rear wheel and the spur at the same time. Try to spin the other wheel. It shold be hard to spin, but not locked up.

NOw do the same with the front wheels. It should be just as tight or slightly tighter than the rear.

WHile on the track, if you hit the throttle full from a stop-car should shoot away silently. if you hear a squaking sound, your diffs are still too loose.

Dont drive on loose diffs, you'll ruin them straight away and need to replace the rings and balls.
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:16 PM   #3484
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ceramic diff balls stay nicer for longer.

The trick is to only use ENOUGH grease on the balls, to much and they can slip over the plates, not enough and they grind at the plates. It is always better to run diffs slightly to tight than slightly loose.
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:24 PM   #3485
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Diff will only melt if they are too loose from my experience. I have never melted a diff.
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Old 03-23-2006, 11:38 PM   #3486
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Hey, back on the 3rd page.

Any way, thought I'd better take some pics of my ''05R'' before it hits the Tamiya test track Saturday.
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Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-p3230099.jpg   Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan-p3230105.jpg  
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:55 AM   #3487
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If I had to pick the only thing I have been disappointed with on this car, it would definitely be the diffs. I just don't know what went wrong with the diffs on this car, but something did.

The diffs go from feeling smooth, to feeling rough, back to feeling rough over and over again. After having initial slipping problems, I flipped the rings over on my rear diff and rebuilt it, the diff became totally smooth. Did the same with the front, no help...still rough. Replaced the rings completely up front, no help...still rough.

And of course this changes based on whether I have just come off the track or not. My rear diff that feels smooth going on the track, may feel like junk right after I come off the track. Then 30 minutes later(I guess when its cooled down) the thing feels smooth again. Its the complete opposite with the front. It feels like junk going on, feels smooth coming off, then goes back to feel like junk.

I've tried adjusting the tensions of both, but nothing seems to bring consistently smooth diffs.

I used to own Tamiya's F201, and that thing had the smoothest diffs I've ever seen. And they were nearly fool proof to build and maintain. How did Tamiya go from getting a diff so right on that car, to getting it so wrong on this one?
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:58 AM   #3488
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I would say it comes down to the thrust bearing and the weight of the car, this puts far more loading on the diff than a light car.
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:01 AM   #3489
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Did u try option high precision diff (#53849)? My friend have one in front and stock in back, the option high-precision diff feel much much smooth than stock one, and much durable.
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:14 AM   #3490
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Anyone know of a shop that still has the TRF Special Blue shocks at a decent price (in the US being the key). I like the blue which is why I havnt gotten the newer "gunmetal" ones. Are they both just as good for my TA05???? Also trying to fing the titanium screw kits as well. THANKS!
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:22 AM   #3491
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I don't think the HP diffs perform any different from the regular ones, they're simply narrowed down a bit, and have a ring clipped to the end. The actual moving parts are all the same, so maybe the HP diffs were indeed smoother, but it would only be because of a fresh rebuild..
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:57 AM   #3492
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the F201 diffs are sealed in the gearboxes. Ive found if after a run, i use the air gun to blow off the dust, alot of it gets in the diffs easily. Best bet is to not use a air gun around the diffs, and use a small brush to clean around it. Also using VERY minimal diff lub helps a tonne too. Another thing to try, rough the diff ring with 1500+ grit paper, only slightly, and you will find the diff balls will grip the rings better and you dont have to over tighten them. In effect your running them looser, but they dont slip. Another thing, dont just replace diff plates. In my experience, the gritty feeling is usually the balls with kinda flatspots. i replace the diff balls before my plates.

I spent about twice as long as i usually do on my diffs the last time i rebuilt them, and they seem to be lasting twice as long. all ive done different, is i spent the time to make sure EVERYTHING was squeeky clean. almost dumped a full bottle of motor spray!. i use a cottom tip to clean the pulley ball holes also. I only apply a tiny amount of diff lub in each hole, and put it back together. seems to work thus far.
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:59 AM   #3493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
If I had to pick the only thing I have been disappointed with on this car, it would definitely be the diffs. I just don't know what went wrong with the diffs on this car, but something did.
Here are some tips for you: I put anti-wear grease on the thrust bearings, precompress your spring in a pair of pliers , also if you get some 800 grit wet sand paper and use the diff half to hold the ring while you sand it on a flat surface (use the paper wet not dry! ) you will have a smoother running diff. Sometimes the diff rings are warped from when they are stamped out of the sheet of steel at the factory, also the wet sand paper will put small scratches in the rings that will not let the balls slip as easily on them.
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:39 AM   #3494
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Thanks for the tips about the diffs. My next move will definitely be to replace the balls. I wish all cars came with carbide diff balls like my Schumacher's used to. Does Tamiya make a harder version of their diff balls?
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:50 AM   #3495
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
If I had to pick the only thing I have been disappointed with on this car, it would definitely be the diffs. I just don't know what went wrong with the diffs on this car, but something did.

The diffs go from feeling smooth, to feeling rough, back to feeling rough over and over again. After having initial slipping problems, I flipped the rings over on my rear diff and rebuilt it, the diff became totally smooth. Did the same with the front, no help...still rough. Replaced the rings completely up front, no help...still rough.

And of course this changes based on whether I have just come off the track or not. My rear diff that feels smooth going on the track, may feel like junk right after I come off the track. Then 30 minutes later(I guess when its cooled down) the thing feels smooth again. Its the complete opposite with the front. It feels like junk going on, feels smooth coming off, then goes back to feel like junk.

I've tried adjusting the tensions of both, but nothing seems to bring consistently smooth diffs.

I used to own Tamiya's F201, and that thing had the smoothest diffs I've ever seen. And they were nearly fool proof to build and maintain. How did Tamiya go from getting a diff so right on that car, to getting it so wrong on this one?
??? weird???
most would say the 05 diff is much smoother due to the pully material also(less glass & more phenolic) Are you using the precision diff half option on the car? (sorry, too lazy to read the thread to catch up)
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