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Old 02-20-2006, 03:12 AM   #3136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman

They fit, but it can be tight by the right side of the bulkhead that hold the spur gear shaft. Just make sure you don't have any extra solder sticking out on that battery joint.
if you are using corally plug, you shouldn't solder the connector to sit exactly in the middle of the polars. that way the connectors should clear the chassis (connector facing the middle of the car)
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Old 02-20-2006, 05:53 AM   #3137
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if you are using corally plug, you shouldn't solder the connector to sit exactly in the middle of the polars. that way the connectors should clear the chassis (connector facing the middle of the car)
I dont' use connectors at all. The problem comes with the battery bar hitting the bulkhead, not the chassis. It does fit, you just have to be careful about how you solder it.
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Old 02-20-2006, 07:33 AM   #3138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kufman
I dont' use connectors at all. The problem comes with the battery bar hitting the bulkhead, not the chassis. It does fit, you just have to be careful about how you solder it.
Along that whole spine (other than the part of the bulkhead that sticks out), I put some 1/4" thick foam weather stripping. This keeps the battery away, and takes out any movement. I put some at the ends for my stick packs too.
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Old 02-20-2006, 07:44 AM   #3139
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only thing I did was to remove the spacers under the battery strap posts and put something smaller in, this allowed the strap to clamp down good and propper. As for the motor mount and battery, as it doesn't go across two batteries, no shorting issue there, only time you will need to do it is when you either run the 'hardenned chassis' or carbon fibre.
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Old 02-20-2006, 11:49 AM   #3140
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I am sure this has been asked somewhere in the 105 pages of this forum, but finding it will be a nightmare.

I have been running my TA05 over the winter indoors and have been struggling on the tight courses. My friends that have also been running TA05's have all changed to different chassis, and i swapped cars with my mate yesterday (tb02R) and i went over a lap quicker and me couldnt get anywhere near his tb02r times with my TA05. Now i am sure some of this is set up, but the others that have moved away from the TA05 were having the same problems, and are set ups are all very different.

Basically the car steers from the rear a lot. It tends to have oversteer. It also seems to not be consistant and will work for several laps not spinning out then without warning will break away.

I know a lot of people run these cars indoors, is anyone else haing simular problems?
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:43 PM   #3141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forum fodder
I am sure this has been asked somewhere in the 105 pages of this forum, but finding it will be a nightmare.

I have been running my TA05 over the winter indoors and have been struggling on the tight courses. My friends that have also been running TA05's have all changed to different chassis, and i swapped cars with my mate yesterday (tb02R) and i went over a lap quicker and me couldnt get anywhere near his tb02r times with my TA05. Now i am sure some of this is set up, but the others that have moved away from the TA05 were having the same problems, and are set ups are all very different.

Basically the car steers from the rear a lot. It tends to have oversteer. It also seems to not be consistant and will work for several laps not spinning out then without warning will break away.

I know a lot of people run these cars indoors, is anyone else haing simular problems?

With all the plastic flexing that could be why that happens. I have a tbo2r which is more consistent in handling but the tao5 just handles so easily I'm relaxed when I use it.
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Old 02-20-2006, 04:24 PM   #3142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula1fan
Do I need short or regular springs for my TA05?
If your running really low tires on carpet, the standard height springs will work. But once you get up around 57mm on the foams or start using rubber tires, your going to have trouble getting your ride height low enough with the standard springs.

My suggestion, don't take any chances, just get Tamiya short spring set or the induvidual short spring(s) that you want. That way you know they'll get you to the ride height you want, regardless of what size tire your using.
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Old 02-20-2006, 04:55 PM   #3143
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Forum fodder - PM me and I will let yo uhave my msn adress, I run the TA05 indoors and found the same thing, but last weekend I cured it and to be honest, it was nailed to the floor, as planted as a T2, Cyclone or anything else.
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Old 02-20-2006, 05:20 PM   #3144
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I am using TRF short srings but there is a minimum ride height of 5mm anyway. Tyres are CS27. I was also getting the problem with both the plastic chassis and also now with the Xenon carbon chassis, so i can't see flex being a problem.

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Old 02-21-2006, 12:16 AM   #3145
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Sorry if this has been covered before but I could not find reference on this thread.

What are the main reasons behind choosing one spur size over another. For example, I want to gear to 5.3 final ratio and can achieve this with a 73 spur and 31 pinion in 48pitch or use the Tamiya 105 spur and 44 or 45 pinion for a similar result.

My question is, what would be the relative merits of either configuration given rubber tyres on asphalt with the Tamiya Sports Tuned motor? If I changed to a ROAR stock motor would one configuration then be preferable over the other?
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Old 02-21-2006, 12:39 AM   #3146
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I've read a few topics about gearing ratios and basically, it doesn't matter what type of gears you use, if the ratio is the same then it's that. Most people finds the 64p smoother than the 48p gears.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
Sorry if this has been covered before but I could not find reference on this thread.

What are the main reasons behind choosing one spur size over another. For example, I want to gear to 5.3 final ratio and can achieve this with a 73 spur and 31 pinion in 48pitch or use the Tamiya 105 spur and 44 or 45 pinion for a similar result.

My question is, what would be the relative merits of either configuration given rubber tyres on asphalt with the Tamiya Sports Tuned motor? If I changed to a ROAR stock motor would one configuration then be preferable over the other?
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Old 02-21-2006, 01:46 AM   #3147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
Sorry if this has been covered before but I could not find reference on this thread.

What are the main reasons behind choosing one spur size over another. For example, I want to gear to 5.3 final ratio and can achieve this with a 73 spur and 31 pinion in 48pitch or use the Tamiya 105 spur and 44 or 45 pinion for a similar result.

My question is, what would be the relative merits of either configuration given rubber tyres on asphalt with the Tamiya Sports Tuned motor? If I changed to a ROAR stock motor would one configuration then be preferable over the other?
I wanted to get the .4 module 105T but even the smallest dirt will ruin it. That's why I stick with .6 module. I used both modules in other tamiya rc and the only advantage is a smoother drivetrain but my skill level aint great to benefit from it. Its just too little to notice. If its smooth enough for a tc3 to use 48 pitch then its good enough for other kits. Nobody complains using 48 pitch in the tc3 which is still the most successful car imho.

edited - .4 is like 64 pitch , .6 is 48 pitch. I always get that wrong.
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Old 02-21-2006, 02:58 AM   #3148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forum fodder
I am using TRF short srings but there is a minimum ride height of 5mm anyway. Tyres are CS27. I was also getting the problem with both the plastic chassis and also now with the Xenon carbon chassis, so i can't see flex being a problem.

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sent yo ua detailed email, setup is on the stock chassis but should also work on the xenon chassis.
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Old 02-21-2006, 03:02 AM   #3149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forum fodder
I am sure this has been asked somewhere in the 105 pages of this forum, but finding it will be a nightmare.

I have been running my TA05 over the winter indoors and have been struggling on the tight courses. My friends that have also been running TA05's have all changed to different chassis, and i swapped cars with my mate yesterday (tb02R) and i went over a lap quicker and me couldnt get anywhere near his tb02r times with my TA05. Now i am sure some of this is set up, but the others that have moved away from the TA05 were having the same problems, and are set ups are all very different.

Basically the car steers from the rear a lot. It tends to have oversteer. It also seems to not be consistant and will work for several laps not spinning out then without warning will break away.

I know a lot of people run these cars indoors, is anyone else haing simular problems?
Hi there.
I have been running my TA05 indoors since october. I have had nearly every possible setup with the wishbones, caster, tow etc. What I have found works best with the car and is consistant is by switching back over to the lightweight arms, removing all the rollbars. What I will do is post my whole setup for you, this is what I ran at the weekend at the DMS winter series, where I qualified B6 (that was just my thumbs, the car is quick and consistant enough to get into the A final).

Front:
55 oil, 2 hole piston, TRF shocks, no foam, white springs, 1mm down type.
Lightweight wishbones, shock position middle of the 3.
2 degree C hubs.
1.5 camber.
Shock tower 2 holes in.
Tow parallel.
All spacers set as kit.
Running 415 blocks at front (A+A).
Droop 5mm.
Ride height 5.

Rear:
50 oil, 2 hole piston, TRF shocks, no foam, yellow springs, 1mm down type.
Lightweight wishbones, shock position middle of 3.
1 degree alu hubs.
1.5 camber.
shock tower 3rd hole in.
Tow in 2 degrees.
All spacers as kit.
Running 415 blocks (A+C)
Droop 4mm.
Ride height 5.5.

If you look at the DMS website and look at the times, while they may not look that impressive, I have been racing for less than a year. I have now got the car at another of my local indoor tracks, where I run vertually the same setup but on T27 where I am only lapping about half a sec off the top guys on a small twisty track. The top guy at this club is Adam Smith who was also in the winter series. I hope this helps. The reason I dont run foams in the dampers is after speaking to David Splashett at the Trinity shootout he said to remove them as they become deformed unequally, I could see this when I took them out and since then they are far more consistant. Feel free to e-mail me if you want more advice on the TA05, I could go on for ever on this post.
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Old 02-21-2006, 11:44 AM   #3150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
Sorry if this has been covered before but I could not find reference on this thread.

What are the main reasons behind choosing one spur size over another. For example, I want to gear to 5.3 final ratio and can achieve this with a 73 spur and 31 pinion in 48pitch or use the Tamiya 105 spur and 44 or 45 pinion for a similar result.

My question is, what would be the relative merits of either configuration given rubber tyres on asphalt with the Tamiya Sports Tuned motor? If I changed to a ROAR stock motor would one configuration then be preferable over the other?
With 64 pitch you are able to change gearing at smaller increments then 48 and a wider range in the gearing, i.e , gear down to the 4's and up to the 8's.
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