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Old 02-05-2006, 05:33 PM   #2881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StadiumChris
So what I need is..

2 - Bridged A mounts
2 - regular A mounts

correct?

I also notice toe-in in the rear, I'm assuming the hub is toed-in?

thanks...
yes the rear hubs are 2 degrees. it is marked right on the hub (just under the inside bearing.

as for the suspension blocks, if you refer to the instruction manual, at the bottom left of pg 6 it details the kit and option parts.

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Old 02-05-2006, 05:39 PM   #2882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jam-ehz
The silver kit springs are Yellows, what you get from the On-Road Tuned set.

Above the whites, are charcoal grey (Super Hard) and Maroon (Ultra Hard). Not sure if they have a copper..
actually.. the silver KIT springs a "tad" stiffer than the yellow (tested by 2004 GT1 National Champ - Ling Kang Tong). the silver kit springs have a full coil, while the yellow ones are ground down so they sit flat.

any of the blocks can also be flipped upside down to be used as a "bridge" block. just need the 3mm spacers.
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Old 02-05-2006, 05:48 PM   #2883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
actually.. the silver KIT springs a "tad" stiffer than the yellow (tested by 2004 GT1 National Champ - Ling Kang Tong). the silver kit springs have a full coil, while the yellow ones are ground down so they sit flat.

any of the blocks can also be flipped upside down to be used as a "bridge" block. just need the 3mm spacers.
Yup, I notice the silver are stiffer. It was bouncy for the track so I switched to yellows. Now I placed a swaybar in front from an mo3 chassis(it fits so why not ). Hopefully it will remove body roll and wont understeer too much.
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Old 02-05-2006, 06:18 PM   #2884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juan Aveytia
I have a 3racing 3 mill chassis for sale for the ta05. Only $60.00 shipped. It retailes for around $110.00. Comes with blue tamiya color standoffs. keyed aluminum motor mount, If you go to 3racing.com.hk you can see the chassis. I drove it on carpet, for only one practice day. I decided to unload all of my rc stuff. I've got a brand new 415MS, which was only run at the reedy race last year for sale also. The only problem I had with the 3racing chassis was when I was building it. The top deck when tightend down, put pressure on the spur gear bearings. I had to dremell part of the graphite, so it would unbind the bearing. I went a hair to far, now there's a little play. But, works perfect. I also have a never opened, with the plastic still around the box TB02 for sale. Make an offer.
for future 3racing chassis owner, it actually rub against the spur gear holder slightly, you just need to file down a bit on the inner part of the top deck that faces the spur gear holder.
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Old 02-05-2006, 06:50 PM   #2885
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Ahh, I knew there was something different.. couldn't put my finger on it.. but yeah, the ends are indeed shaved.. heh..

I just did the "place them end-to-end and squeeze" test.. heheh.. they seemed to compress the same to me

With the blocks, I only have X blocks, which happen to come with the spacers.. do the A-D blocks come with them too?

I'm thinking the new 1E block will, seeming to be marketed as a TA05 hop-up, but is there a real need for an E block?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hebiki
actually.. the silver KIT springs a "tad" stiffer than the yellow (tested by 2004 GT1 National Champ - Ling Kang Tong). the silver kit springs have a full coil, while the yellow ones are ground down so they sit flat.

any of the blocks can also be flipped upside down to be used as a "bridge" block. just need the 3mm spacers.
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Old 02-05-2006, 06:54 PM   #2886
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Thanks for the info.. but I am looking right at page 6 of my manual and it does not show anything about a kit nor option parts.. it is a step to start installing the suspension arms and one plastic block, but it has no other details... possibly I have an older manual???




Quote:
Originally Posted by quantum
yes the rear hubs are 2 degrees. it is marked right on the hub (just under the inside bearing.

as for the suspension blocks, if you refer to the instruction manual, at the bottom left of pg 6 it details the kit and option parts.

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Old 02-05-2006, 07:10 PM   #2887
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Hi all, just started club racing my TA05 2 weeks ago and I love the balance of this car. very easy to drive. Im a newbee to the TA05 so do not no what parts are interchange with other Tamiya cars.

will this part work with a TA05,Tamiya (#53866) TRF415MS/EVO IV Pro Module Rear Suspension Set.

Thanks all.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:02 PM   #2888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *mini*racer*
Hi all, just started club racing my TA05 2 weeks ago and I love the balance of this car. very easy to drive. Im a newbee to the TA05 so do not no what parts are interchange with other Tamiya cars.

will this part work with a TA05,Tamiya (#53866) TRF415MS/EVO IV Pro Module Rear Suspension Set.

Thanks all.
Should work.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:40 AM   #2889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by *mini*racer*
Hi all, just started club racing my TA05 2 weeks ago and I love the balance of this car. very easy to drive. Im a newbee to the TA05 so do not no what parts are interchange with other Tamiya cars.

will this part work with a TA05,Tamiya (#53866) TRF415MS/EVO IV Pro Module Rear Suspension Set.

Thanks all.

Hey man... I wouldn't get that if I was you. Stick with the old style suspension till you can run at least one run without hitting anything and then pick up the lightweight suspension conversion. Nobody around here runs the Pro Module rear so that means no help.... By the way its Matt I pitted next to you the other week.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:46 AM   #2890
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fOK guys, looking for some setup advice here. Ran yesterday on carpet with A's. Mid-to exit of the corner the rear end would square up really hard to the point of wanting to wash out on exit. I'm using the Aluminum hubs that come with the 415 worlds update kit and the ballstud is closest to the chassis. I'm thinking about moving to the middle hole in the hub and possibly adding some anti-squat to the rear end. Sound like the right move?
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:55 AM   #2891
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Moving the stud out sounds like the right move, but not the anti squat, that will give it more high speed steering.
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:58 AM   #2892
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Well, to be honest, It's pushing and it's loose. I think part of it is just the fact that you cannot get enough mechanical steering throw out of the car too, but it was pushy at low speed
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:06 AM   #2893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCGaryK
Well, to be honest, It's pushing and it's loose. I think part of it is just the fact that you cannot get enough mechanical steering throw out of the car too, but it was pushy at low speed
This car has more steering than any car I've ever driven, steering wise it beats my 415 hands down. Sounds like you just need to increase the cars roll by either softening the suspension or playing with roll centers.

You wouldn't happen to be running the spool would you?
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:11 AM   #2894
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I have been watching this thread and developed an interest in this car. Is there already a cf chassis conversion out for this car and if so how much? Also, what adjustment or strengthening goodies are recommended? I would be using this car for concrete and some carpet.

Thanks for yall's time
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:22 AM   #2895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GroffBall
This car has more steering than any car I've ever driven, steering wise it beats my 415 hands down. Sounds like you just need to increase the cars roll by either softening the suspension or playing with roll centers.

You wouldn't happen to be running the spool would you?
Nope, double one-way. From my experience Carpet+rubber tires=spool= evil bad
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